Tony Bryant
Andalucía is especially rewarding in autumn: the fierce summer heat eases, the countryside takes on richer colours and remote mountain areas become lovely places to explore on foot. For the traveller seeking a slightly otherworldly feel, unusual history and a spectacular landscape, then the Gorafe desert and megalithic park in the province of Granada would be an ideal choice. This spectacular area presents a landscape where time seems to stand still. Here, in the stillness of the desert, a mysterious ancient world lingers. This is a place of extraordinary beauty and historical significance, and home to one of Europe's most remarkable collections of dolmens, where the stones seem to whisper stories of a distant past.
Situated in the Granada Geopark, it has been described as Spain's most deserted desert. The landscape of eroded ravines and ochre-coloured cliffs evokes the American Southwest more than the Mediterranean. The surrounding landscape also contains ancient cave dwellings, making it an unusual combination of geology and prehistory
The park offers a remarkable mixture of landscapes, shapes and colours that change with the time of day. The cooler temperatures are better for exploring the exposed terrain, while sunrise and late-afternoon light create spectacular shadows across the ravines. Its integration with the landscape of the Granada Geopark makes it a perfect enclave to combine nature, culture and sustainable tourism.
A journey into the past
The park is home to more than 240 dolmens spread across ten necropolises, all set within an almost untouched natural environment.
More than just an archaeological site, it offers a unique journey into the past, allowing visitors to connect with the first inhabitants of the Iberian Peninsula.
The megalithic funerary structures were built between 3000 and 2000 BC. Each consisted of large stone slabs forming a burial chamber where members of the community were laid to rest alongside ritual objects.
Several marked paths with information boards allow visitors to explore the different necropolises on foot, while also offering spectacular views of a geological landscape of great natural beauty.
For adventure seekers and ecotourism enthusiasts, the Gorafe desert provides a variety of outdoor activities, including hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching. Griffon vultures, eagles, kestrels and other birds of prey can be spotted over rocky terrain and nearby hills, along with other wildlife like Spanish Ibex, red foxes and otters.
Lunar-like scenery
The desert stands out for its lunar-like scenery, featuring undulating hills and striking rock formations sculpted by wind and rain over thousands of years.
One of the best ways of experiencing the desert terrain is on the 4x4 guided tour, which takes a route through the spectacular Los Coloraos Badlands, with their red cliffs and unusual rock formations. The tours include stops at panoramic viewpoints and explanations of the landscape's geology.
The scenery changes dramatically with the light, offering the chance of spectacular photographs. The viewpoints offer sweeping views across the Badlands, which are particularly rewarding to photographers and those seeking the perfect selfie, especially at sunrise and late afternoon, when the ridges and ravines take on warm golden, orange and red tones.
Those who want to extend their stay can book one of the cave houses. This distinctive accommodation offers a different way to experience the region's traditional architecture and peaceful rural atmosphere.
Seeing as the Gorafe desert is renowned for its dark night sky conditions, it is an exceptional place for astronomical observation, both for professionals and enthusiasts. There is also the option of joining an organised astronomical observation session.
Information about tours and other activities can be found on