Taking it back to basics: by now, we all know that finding your most flattering hairstyle starts with knowing your face shape. But there’s a problem. According to celebrity hairdresser Greg Hill, most of us are getting our face shape wrong and, consequently, walking around with a haircut that doesn’t actually suit us.
‘Clients name every face shape in a magazine in seconds, then sit in the chair and describe their own as something it isn't,’ says Greg, who counts Trinny Woodall among his starry clientele.

Celebrity hairdresser Greg shares his expertise with GH
‘You just don't see your own face the way you see anyone else's,' he says. ‘You see it in a mirror, almost always head-on, and often through the filter of how it used to look or how you feel about it, rather than how it actually is.’
Getting older is a definite factor in this confusion, he notes. Just because our basic bone structure doesn’t change, that doesn't mean our face shape doesn’t. ‘After 50-something years, the changes (softer cheeks, a slightly fuller jaw, a forehead that looks taller because your hairline has moved) can feel like little add-ons to the face you know. They're not. They change your overall shape, and your haircut needs to take them into account,’ Greg explains.
Put simply, just because a hairstyle worked and flattered your face in your 20s, that doesn't mean it will still work in your 50s.
It’s a topic that Greg has even devoted an entire, upcoming book to. Check out his website and Instagram to stay updated, and pick up more of his insider tricks.
First, how do I find my face shape?
With years of experience behind the salon chair, it’s safe to say Greg has mastered the art of identifying face shapes.
He tells us it starts with pulling your hair back and studying your face in three sections, and asking the following questions:
- Top third: how wide is your forehead?
- Middle third: how wide are your cheekbones?
- Bottom third: how wide is your jaw, and is it soft or angular?

Start by carefully studying in the mirror
From there, compare the length of your face with the width across your cheekbones, then match what you see to one of the seven shapes Greg has named below.
If you’re still stuck, use your phone-a-friend lifeline and ask someone else for their thoughts. Sometimes, a different perspective is needed.
The face shapes
Oval

An oval face is the most versatile of them all
What is it? According to Greg, an oval face is slightly longer than it is wide, with a forehead and jaw a little narrower than the cheekbones, and soft curves all round. 'Think of an egg on its narrow end,' he says.
Sound like you? Consider yourself the hair lottery winner. Greg tells us it’s the most versatile face shape, so almost every style will work.
Do: 'Use the freedom!' he says. 'A blunt bob, a cropped pixie, or a curtain fringe will all sit well.'
Avoid: Greg tells us heavy full fringes are the one thing to avoid here. ‘They hide your best asset, which is balance,’ he says.
Round

Round faces benefit from long lengths
What is it? Greg says a round face is roughly as wide as it is long, with soft, rounded curves around the jaw. Think Kate Winslet and Drew Barrymore (not bad company to have).
Do: ‘Long hair is flattering on those with this face shape, but you don't have to grow it. What you want is movement and angles, as long as your cut finishes below the chin.' A deep side parting, and layers that graze the cheekbones are all flattering additions to hair on a round face, according to Greg.
Avoid: He notes to avoid chin-length cuts that curve inwards, and blunt fringes that are cut straight across.
Square

Square face shapes are in good company with Angelina and Sandra
What is it? Just like a square, the length and width of the face will be roughly the same. ‘You’ll notice the forehead, cheekbones and jaw all a similar width and a strong, angular jaw,’ he adds.
Do: ‘Soften, don’t hide,’ is Greg’s biggest piece of advice. ‘A strong jaw is a gift as we age, because it holds its shape. The cut just needs to take the edges off,’ he adds. ‘Try longer length, or a long bob, with soft, face-framing layers, wispy ends or a side-swept fringe.’
Avoid: According to Greg, the key is to steer clear of sharp, blunt lines that end at the jaw. 'They put a ruler next to it.'
Oblong

Oblong faces really suit bobs and fringes
What is it? ‘A rectangle face shape will be noticeably longer than it is wide. And, the forehead, cheekbones and jaw will all be a similar width,’ says Greg.
Do: He explains, ‘The key is to add width, not length’. A chin-length bob, styled with plenty of side volume is ideal for this face shape. 'This is also the face shape that suits a fringe the most,' he says.
Avoid: A simple rule to follow is, avoid long, flat and centre-parted hair.
Heart

Heart shapes should look at adding weight low.
What is it? ‘A heart shape will be widest at the forehead, with slightly narrower cheekbones and a jaw that tapers to a defined point,’ he explains.
Do: Greg says to add weight low. Think low layering, or a bob cut at the chin to fill out the lower half of the face. ‘A curtain fringe is also flattering as it narrows the forehead without hiding it,’ he adds.
Avoid: He recommends staying away from choppy layers on the top, and volume at the crown.
Diamond

Diamonds look incredible with a Halle-inspired pixie
What is it? A diamond face is widest at the cheekbones, with a narrower forehead and jaw, and often a pointed chin.
Do: ‘Two options work beautifully here, and very little in between,’ says Greg. ‘Either go chin-to-collarbone length, with pieces finishing around the jawline to add width to the narrower lower face. Or go properly short with a textured pixie or crop, Halle Berry-style.’
Avoid: Steer clear of the awkward middle ground length between these two styles.
Pear

Pear shapes suit chin to mid length cuts
What is it? As Greg explains, ‘a pear shape will be widest at the jaw, with slightly narrower cheekbones and the narrowest point at the forehead, so the face is fuller towards the bottom.’
Do: Here, he says chin-length to mid-length works best. ‘Whatever length you go for, make sure to build strong volume into the top half,’ he adds.
Avoid: ‘Make sure the ends never finish past the jaw, never on it,’ he says.
