Dubai: The music catches your attention first. Then come the lights, the chatter of families, and the smell of food drifting from one stall to the next. A traditional Filipino jeepney adds another reminder of home, while somewhere nearby, a karaoke singer takes the microphone and groups of friends gather to share a meal.
At the DSF Al Rigga The Night Market in Deira, an evening out can feel a little like being back in the Philippines.
For many Filipinos living in Dubai, the market is more than a place to satisfy a craving for familiar food. It is somewhere to meet friends, bring the family together, and spend time among people who share their language and culture.
Now in its seventh season, the market has reopened on October 17, with Filipino food stalls, retail bazaars, and nightly live performances. Operating during the cooler months, the open-air venue draws residents looking for an evening away from work and the routines of everyday life.
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A little piece of the Philippines in Deira
For Frel Villaflor, the owner of DSF Al Rigga The Night Market, the idea of home has taken on a different meaning since she arrived in the UAE in 2006.
She has come with a goal to prove herself to her parents and eventually provide for them. Today, she is fortunate to have his parents, siblings, children, and immediate family members together in the Emirates.
“Dubai is more than just a place where we work and build our future, it's where our dreams have come true. Philippines will always be our home, but Dubai has become our second home,” Villaflor told Gulf News.
That connection between home and community has been reflected in the market itself. She has estimated that about 80 percent of the market's visitors are Filipinos. She has noted that the location in Deira, where a large number of overseas Filipino workers (OFWs) live, makes it a natural gathering place for the community.
“We understand our target customers because we are one of them. We know the little things that makes a Filipino's heart happy. We know exactly where it tickles.”
For Villaflor, the business has grown beyond its original purpose of providing for her family. It has aslo provided small business owners a place to start or grow their ventures and offers OFWs somewhere to unwind after long working hours.
“It's more than just a night market, it's about introducing the little piece of Philippines to Dubai. Being resilient is one of the greatest trait of Filipinos, thus making it easier to adjust on any circumstances with a light heart.”
She added, “We basically create a place where they feel belong. A little piece of home right here in the middle of Deira.”
First night out as a couple
Kyrene Luna, a head of operations of a cafe who has lived in the UAE for 10 years, has highlighted that the market has been a familiar destination for the past five years.
Her latest visit has marked a new chapter. She went with her partner, Arjohn, and is now pregnant with their four-month-old baby, making it their first night out as a couple since becoming parents.
“We decided to go to the night market to feel the Filipino and ‘kabayan’ vibes. At the same time, to feel at home, just like in the Philippines, wherever you look here, you see a lot of Filipinos,” shared Luna.
One of her favourite memories has been a visit by Filipino actor and singer Piolo Pascual.
“My favourite memory in the night market was during the visit of the artist, Piolo Pascual. There was a lot of people then, it really made me happy and it really felt like home.”
For Luna, returning to the market has been an opportunity to share a familiar cultural experience with her growing family.
Time with family
For Leah Mae Castillo, a private nurse who has resided in the UAE for three years, the market is a place to reconnect with relatives despite busy schedules.
Now in her second year of visiting, she usually goes with her cousins and siblings. The gathering has given them time to sit together, enjoy Filipino food, and take a break from the demands of work.
“When you say night market, what comes to mind is definitely Filipinos. There's food, jamming, and coming together despite the busy schedules with work. This is the time to celebrate with our families,” explained Castillo.
Her visit this year has been especially memorable when her cousin sang at the market and had his talent acknowledged by others.
For Castillo, it has been a reminder that an evening out can offer people a chance to do more than eat and shop. It can also give them a moment to share their abilities and enjoy the company of those around them.
“My favourite memory in the night market is being with my family. Even if we live far away from the Philippines, as long as we find the time, we celebrate together.”
New experience
Not everyone who visits the market is Filipino. Some arrive simply because the sounds and sights have catched their attention.
Deepika Suresh, a tourist from Chennai, India, has been exploring Dubai with her daughter, Aadya, during a five-day visit when they heard music and noticed the lights at the market.
“It's our third day in Dubai and we heard something was happening. There was some music, sounds, and all the lights so those attracted us and we just thought, we'll come here and we'll have a look. It was so nice,” described Suresh.
The market has offered a new experience for the pair. She has mentioned that they were not familiar with a similar night market in their home town and enjoyed discovering the different food on offer.
“We don't have anything called night market in Chennai. We don't have anything like this there. It's a new experience to us. We like the food items and all the new smells which are very inviting.”
While the night market holds a special place for Filipinos seeking familiar flavours and company, it can also introduce visitors from other countries to different food and cultural experience.
More than an evening out
The market's appeal has not been limited to any single dish, performance, or stall. It has been the combination of food, music, shopping, and people sharing an evening together.
For OFWs in Dubai, the Philippines may be a flight away, but on an evening in Deira, home can feel closer, in the food they grew up with, the people around them, and the simple joy of being together.