Last: Bridgeland Distillery rises to the task

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As Canadians look to buy local with increasing frequency, many of us have noticed we can make some pretty great things here at home. Canadian wine, while a little on the pricey side, can compete globally with some of the best, and I think that’s true of Canadian whisky as well.

This month, I step out of my wine comfort zone to explore the wide world of whisky, distilled here in Calgary. The plan is to focus on a local distillery between wine columns, to give them the coverage they deserve. I thought I’d start with Bridgeland Distillery, since their efforts continually impress me.

It was founded over eight years ago by Daniel Plezik and Jacques Tremblay after the two met in a distilling course in the Okanagan. They set up in the former Eisenberg Furniture building on Edmonton Trail in the heart of Bridgeland, and I think it’s safe to say their efforts have gone from strength to strength.

The art of distilling goes back to 3500 BCE in what would now be modern Iraq and in China. With the invention of alembic, continuous and pot stills, the process was elevated to an art which carries on to this day. Basic distillation is relatively simple, but turning that harsh, volatile liquid into something smooth and complex is a skill, which accounts for it being a $90-billion industry, with that number expected to double by 2034.

One thing that sets it apart from the production of wine is that the base materials — cereal grains, water and yeast —can be found almost everywhere. Canada is no stranger to distilling, exploiting a loophole during prohibition — which was imposed on both Canada and the U.S. — which allowed the sale of alcohol for export abroad, most of which was diverted to the U.S. Interestingly, B.C. abandoned prohibition in 1921, turning the Strait of Georgia and Vancouver Island into a floating booze market where local boats delivered whisky to American speedboats. Hiram Walker got its start in bootlegging, and gangsters like Al Capone became prominent clients.

Now that prohibition is long behind us, Canadian distillers have honed their craft and are making world-class products. Bridgeland has evolved from producing whiskies (still its focus) to include grappa, amaro, ports, bourbon, limoncello and premade cocktails. Because of international trademarks, it has had to use workaround names (its new port, about to be released, is Portofino, for example. The grappa is Eau de Vigne Barrique Marc, while the bourbons are called Taber Corn Whisky.

There was a lot going on during my visit; grape must bubbling away for grappa, port being bottled and labelled (all by hand), and various spirits fermenting and ageing. For the grappa and brandy, fresh grapes/juice is brought in from neighbouring sources and crushed in the distillery using an old basket press (which many wineries still prefer).

Over the years, I’ve watched this distillery grow and improve, and there are things maturing in barrels that I think are going to bring them even more accolades and awards. If you refuse, as I do, to buy American bourbon, I can highly recommend Bridgeland’s Taber Corn Whisky 101. It’s great neat or in cocktails, and if you find it a little hot, as it is overproof whisky, a few drops of water will resolve that. Whisky connoisseurs tend to prefer higher proof as alcohol also functions as a vector for flavour.

The distillery is open for tours and tastings; see their website for details. You can find Bridgeland Distillery’s products in shops around Alberta, and they are well worth discovering if you haven’t already. Cheers!

Geoff Last is a long-time Calgary wine merchant writer, instructor, and broadcaster. He can be heard on occasion on CJSW’s Road Pops program on Fridays at 4 p.m. lastcallforwine@gmail.com