Orange Is Spring 2027’s Unlikely Favorite Color

It’s been a colorful few seasons in fashion. Red has practically become a neutral, while purple has emerged as its favorite counterpart. An icy, sky blue keeps popping up on runways and chartreuse persists as an unlikely favorite. But designers have shown a zest for a new color this season. Everyone from Balenciaga to Matières Fécales featured orange in their collections, offering a much-needed, tangy display of energy on the runway.

At Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga show last week, chiffon gowns and evening dresses appeared on the runway in shades of citrus, as did the brand’s new Silhou bag that was styled with a couture-inspired white tee and jeans. Piccioli specifically has always had an affinity for color; recall his Fall 2022 show for Valentino in which bright magenta—now dubbed Pink PP—colored 48 of 81 looks. From his past work for the Italian Maison through to current collections for Balenciaga, Piccioli continues to experiment with vibrant, often unexpected hues with his ready-to-wear and accessories. Since his first collection for the house in Spring 2026, he’s exalted shades like purple and chartreuse. And with Spring 2027, Piccioli has christened a tangerine-y orange the color trend of the season.

Days prior, Matières Fécales designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran also seemed to favor the fruity color for their satin outerwear and draped dresses. For his Courrèges debut, the new creative director of the ’60s Space Age brand Drew Henry showed tailored trousers and a short robe coat (shown with a matching suede bag) in a slightly redder version of the hue. And then at Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered a sheer orange skirt with embellished trim paired with a black leather jacket and a red handbag—note these styling tips come spring.

Over the weekend, the push for orange peaked at Nadège Vanhée’s Hermès on Saturday, then via Miu Miu, Akris, Valentino, and Mugler on Sunday. Vanhée’s take spanned from shirt dresses and maxi skirts to bra tops and handbags, while at Miu Miu, orange babydoll dresses reigned supreme—one embellished with crystals at the front, another layered over swimwear. At Mugler, Miguel Castro Freitas went for an impeccably cut, dandelion satin suit with gloves and a belt to match.

To close out the week, Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy jumped on the orange bandwagon with a top and skirt set featuring floral embroidery and white buttons with the CC logo. He also showed a croc-effect top-handle bag with a decorative chain strap that served as an unexpected color pop against a red tweed jacket. Looking even further on the accessories front, footwear brand Jude showed that woven satin pumps and classic strappy sandals were updated in sunset shades for its Spring 2027 collection.

Orange is energetic; it’s cheerful; but it’s not often considered a “pretty” color. In fact, it’s notoriously difficult to massage into your wardrobe. But this season, designers are interpreting the zesty shade through a more archetypical lens of beauty. Take Piccioli’s ethereal gowns at Balenciaga or Mrs. Prada’s embellished mini dresses for Miu Miu. Each displays a nuanced take on femininity, making us think harder about what is or isn’t “pretty.”

Zooming out, we’re coming off seasons of quiet luxury neutrals. It was only a matter of time before the pendulum swung in a direction that celebrates statement-making fashion and accessories in colors that evoke some sort of reaction. But they’re often unexpected colors that require clever reimagination by designers to win over an audience. Take last season’s chartreuse, for instance: A bitter pill to swallow at first glance, but it certainly makes for an interesting ensemble when done correctly. Orange is just the latest instance of these tendencies. But don’t fret; these new shades of citrus will look even cooler when styled against that charcoal blazer you bought a few years ago.