As a beauty journalist, I find myself nestled between the likes of fellow beauty editors, content creators and PR executives at brand events every week. Our dinner table conversations run the circuit of all the usual things: what we're watching, the places we've just visited, hot takes on celebrity sitings, and, naturally, the beauty products we are obsessed with. Gathered around the table at our latest outing, one perfume seemed to be arousing an unnatural stir. The culprit? Merit's New Wave, £79.
The second fragrance in Merit's line up arrives two years after Retrospect, its inaugural scent that helped the brand go from a millennial make-up haven to a perfume powerhouse. Retrospect, by its very definition was ode to traditional perfumery. It wasn't try-hard, trend-led, or single-storied, instead the aldehyde-laden juice emerged softly, powered, and with a vintage appeal that stayed close to the skin.
'Our move into fragrance two years ago aimed to bring something new to the category; an approach to fragrance that slows down and focuses on nuance,' explains Aila Morin, CMO at Merit, 'New Wave is our second foray into the fragrance space, and while it continues that perspective, it’s a distinctly new offering. We couldn’t be more excited for our community to try this next evolution of Merit fragrance.'
What is Merit's New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum?
For the next chapter in the brand's fragrance journey, things have taken a unexpected turn. Still rooted in an unconventional approach to perfumery, the story of New Wave began in Musée Picasso in Paris, where the two noses behind the scent, master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin, looked to Picasso's use of cubism and surrealism as the inspiration to an avant-garde take on fragrance making.
Capturing the feeling that inspired them on that very day in Paris, they landed on a scent that keeps a firm foot in the traditions of classical fragrance-making, all while bending them for a wholly unconventional construction. New Wave is a warm, spicy floral scent that feels bold, deep, sensual, and ever evolving. Think of it as the extroverted counterpart to the original scent.
A reinterpretation of one of perfumery's most beloved structures, Ambre 83, serves as the backbone of the fragrance. Dominique Ropion, master perfumer, explains, 'some fragrances become references because their construction is so precise and enduring. With New Wave, I wanted to capture the spirit of classical amber compositions, such as Ambre 83, while reinterpreting them for today. The challenge was not to recreate the past, but to preserve its strength and sophistication in a fragrance that feels more radiant, and relevant to a modern audience.'
It's achieved through a deep, heavy, resinous base that is made up of incense, benzoin, labdanum, patchouli, tobacco, vanilla and woods. It is every bit as sensual and warm as you would imagine, but any chance of headiness is swerved by its contrasting opening notes. Bright and spicy pink pepper and angelica soon give way to a warm, solar floral heart bursting with orange flower, ylang ylang and honey floral accord. The result is magnetic and deeply evocative.
'What excites me most about New Wave is the dialogue between tradition and emotion,' adds Meabh McCurtin, the perfumer behind the scent. 'We worked with exceptional raw materials that each bring their own texture and personality, but the goal was always to create a feeling rather than showcase ingredients. I wanted the fragrance to feel empowering and alive, evolving on skin in a way that feels deeply personal.'
Our verdict? It's guaranteed to move you much like a piece of art.
Shop: Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum
Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum
As an extrait de parfum, this is one of the most concentrated blends available, so expect the scent to stain your skin. As for the juice, it is a delicately sweet, sensually warm and deep offering that feels bold and present.
79
Sameeha Shaikh is Grazia's beauty writer, working across all categories to bring you insights on the latest trends, industry news and the products you need to know about, viral or not (most probably viral).
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