Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) industry has become world renowned for its green factories.
But a green certificate does not always tell the full story. The true measure of sustainable manufacturing is when factories lower pollution, ethically manage resources and preserve the surrounding communities.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) valued the export revenue of the sector at over Tk 48 billion during fiscal year 2024-25.
This economic success only reinforces the need for considering environmental responsibility. However there is a gap between the image and the reality of the industry’s green image and practice.
According to Bangladesh Sangbad Sangstha (BSS), Bangladesh has over 270 LEED certified green garment factories. Cleaner production has also been successful in achieving tangible results.
The Daily Star reported the factories that participated in the International Finance Corporation’s Partnership for Cleaner Textile programme managed to save a total of 25 million cubic metres of freshwater use every year.
The amount of water per kgm of fabric decreased from almost 200 litres to approximately 50-53 litres for denim production.
These are proof that using efficient technology can make a difference. Yet the performance of the many factories that have improved may not necessarily be representative of the performance of the industry as a whole.
There remains a number of manufacturers who still face problems in financing their production systems and equipment that can help them to become cleaner.
The Financial Express reports that the share of renewable energy in the energy consumption of factories surveyed by it is negligible. The majority still rely on mains electricity and private power generation.
Alternatively rooftop solar power can be used, but its adoption is hindered by the high costs and technical challenges.
The fact that existing pollution-control systems have not been utilized is more worrisome.
None of the eight factories inspected along the Haridhoa River in Narsingdi were using effluent treatment plant (ETP), though they do have one, reported by The Daily Star. Industrial effluents were still being discharged into the river.
The report was not only for garment factories but it pointed out a larger issue, pollution prevention is impossible without factories using the equipment.
That’s why sustainability does not need to be just about certificates.
Even with a green building, a factory can harm the environment by using too much water, chemicals, or by discharging effluent without treatment. What matters is how factories operate every day.
Government should regularly inspect and report on, and take meaningful action against, non-compliance of environmental rules.
Lessons should also be learned from monitoring that should be extended to smaller factories and subcontractors where this may have limited oversight of harmful practices.
Factory owners are also in need of assistance for transitioning. Investment in cleaner machinery, the treatment of wastewater and renewable energy is still required and can be challenging for smaller manufacturers with narrow profit margins. International buyers should play part in this.
They are willing to pay for improved environmental standards, but are often willing to accept low prices and quick delivery. For sustainable supply chains, brands should provide reasonable prices and steady orders and technical support.
Progress in Bangladesh should also be measured in terms of environmental outcomes. It’s not just the number of certificates hanging at the factory wall; it is water, wastewater quality, energy use and emissions.
Genuine improvements would be identified by regular, publicly available data that would enable buyers and regulators to separate the good from the green marketing.
Cleaner production has been demonstrated in the RMG sector. The trouble now is that it becomes routine and standard practice throughout the supply chain.
This requires stronger enforcement, responsible purchasing by international brands and a genuine commitment from manufacturers. Sustainability must be more than a green label.
It should lead to cleaner rivers, reduced resource use and environmental harm. The garment industry will have to prove its environmental performance is equal to its green image for Bangladesh to gain credibility.
(The writer is a BBA student majoring in Marketing at Jatiya Kabi Kazi Nazrul Islam University.)