From a hanok-view bistro to a cafe facing Gyeongbokgung’s west gate, a guide to the neighborhood’s latest hot spots
To the west of Gyeongbokgung lies the neighborhood of Seochon. Along with Bukchon to the palace’s north, it is one of the few places in Seoul that still embodies the city’s old soul.
Low-slung hanok rooftops, framed by Inwangsan, line its alleys. Tucked between them are a terrace bistro, a vintage photo booth, a niche perfumer, fashion flagships, a jewelry workshop and a cafe facing the palace wall.
The neighborhood has long drawn artists. From the Joseon era to the modern period, poets, novelists and painters lived and worked here, and that creative streak still shapes the shops and spaces that have settled into its traditional hanok and low-rise buildings.
With autumn being the best time for a slow stroll, here is a look at the spots drawing crowds this season.
Tiiin Seoul
Autumn in Seoul calls for a terrace table, and Tiiin Seoul has one of the neighborhood’s best.
The small bistro serves European dishes built around seasonal ingredients. Sea bream, roasted until crisp outside and tender within, is a standout. All pasta is made fresh in-house, and the white ragu is the most popular order.
The second-floor terrace overlooks a cluster of hanok roofs, giving the meal the feel of a Parisian bistro with a distinctly Seoul view. On mild autumn days, terrace seats are the ones to aim for.
Auto Foto
For a souvenir of the day, Auto Foto offers a vintage take on Korea’s ubiquitous four-cut photo booth. Actors Shin Min-a and Gong Hyo-jin recently stopped by for a photo of their own, a visit featured on Gong’s YouTube channel.
The space is tiny, with a single booth that makes group shots a squeeze. The payoff is a classic, retro-style frame that sets it apart from typical booths.
Digital copies are available by scanning a QR code. An on-site capsule machine dispenses a key ring holder for 3,000 won, to carry the printed photo around.
Le Plein Ete
Seochon and Bukchon are home to a growing number of local fragrance shops, and Le Plein Ete is among the most popular.
The perfume label draws on the scenery and atmosphere of cities encountered while traveling. Its scents are named after places in Korea, giving them the nickname “city perfumes.” For visitors who fall for a particular Korean city, a bottle offers a way to remember it by scent.
The brand gained wider attention after BTS members Jin and J-Hope gave its perfume as a gift to their fans, Army.
A 50-ml eau de toilette costs 59,000 ($44) won, relatively affordable for a niche label. Staff offer one-on-one consultations, making it a good stop for those hunting a signature scent unlikely to be shared by others.
Reqins
Since Jennie of Blackpink helped spark the craze for heeled ribbon ballet flats, Repetto pairs have become hard to find. Reqins offers a comparable range of flats and loafers in a wide array of colors, patterns and materials.
The French shoe brand was launched in Marseille in 1987. Its shoes use high-quality leather and materials from Italy and Spain and are known for comfort.
Leopard-print flats make a strong accent piece for autumn. Popular styles, including heeled flats and basic colors, sometimes sell out, but they can be ordered in store. Purchases at the showroom come with a 10 percent discount.
Basic flats cost 178,000 won and the trending heeled flats are 228,000 won.
Rola Rola
In the middle of Seochon's main shopping street sits Rola Rola’s largest flagship. The brand occupies the entire building, whose exterior recalls a vintage Parisian mansion.
The first floor carries new arrivals, accessories and the brand's signature collection. The second floor houses the basic collection along with the brand’s first home line.
The store is especially popular with teens and shoppers in their early-to-mid 20s.
Monoha
For those leaning into this season’s “grown woman” styling trend, Monoha offers a more mature alternative.
The brand skips fussy detail in favor of quality fabrics, flattering fits and minimal design in toned-down, monochrome palettes. Its take on this fall and winter’s deep V-neck knit comes layered over a buttoned halter top for a more distinctive look.
The Seochon store spans the first floor and a basement level, where the fitting rooms are located.
Clothing is only part of the draw. Monoha also showcases works by artists who study the properties of natural materials such as clay, wood, glass, metal and fiber, turning them into objects for everyday use. Pieces on display include a bamboo plate by Kohchosai Kosuga, a stone leg plate by October Kim Studio and the Wing Bowl by Lee Jeong-mee.
The Ilma
The Ilma’s Seoul flagship occupies a big hanok, making the building itself a landmark.
The new contemporary Korean fashion brand applies deconstructivist patterns to create varied combinations. One example pairs a boxy shirt with a bustier featuring a sculptural butterfly motif, handmade from tape yarn.
The styling on display is polished enough that shoppers unsure of current trends could simply copy the mannequins head to toe.
The brand is also a go-to for fall and winter boots. Its signature Beth Middle Heel Boots are mid-calf leather boots with lace-up detailing around the ankle and a stable mid heel. The roomy shaft can be folded down slightly or slouched lower. Colors change each season, and the boots are priced at 598,000 won.
On a recent visit, two young models were leaving the store with their arms full of shopping bags.
“I’m Mia, from Paris. I discovered this brand through modeling work and it became one of my favorites, so I brought my friend, also from Paris, here," she said. "The clothes are never boring, and the brand doesn’t just chase trends. It has its own identity. The designs don’t look feminine at first glance, but once on, there is a femininity to them. It’s a brand I love.”
Ramshackle
No shopping trip is complete without accessories, and Ramshackle is the place for them.
The Korean brand makes handmade jewelry and accessories inspired by tribal ornaments and reworked for modern life. Silver pieces dominate.
Beyond the brand’s own designs, curated objects fill the space from the first-floor entrance to the corners of the second-floor workshop, where the sounds of tools drift outside.
The handmade rings are the highlight. Unlike many select-shop pieces that could pass for cheaper vintage finds, Ramshackle’s designs feel genuinely one of a kind.
Tailor Coffee
End the day on Hyoja-ro, where rows of ginkgo trees turn gold in autumn. Tailor Coffee sits along this stretch, facing Yeongchumun, the west gate of Gyeongbokgung.
Folding glass doors open onto the palace’s stone wall, giving the cafe an airy feel and an unobstructed view. Window seats all face outward.
The roaster processes more than 100 tons of beans a year, supplying cafes nationwide each week, and runs its own branches across Seoul. Americanos come with a choice of nutty or acidic beans.
For the season, the Figuier dessert features figs, now at their peak. It pairs well with an afternoon of crisp autumn air and watching hanbok-clad visitors stroll past the palace wall.
Go-go-ssing: Explore Korea is The Korea Herald's guide to lesser-known destinations, local stories and distinctive travel experiences. — Ed.
yoohong@heraldcorp.com