The First Crop of the New and Improved Sunscreen Formulas Is Finally Here

I’ve been spoiled. After traveling extensively to South Korea over the past few years—including living there for months at a time—I’ve grown accustomed to sunscreen formulas that spread easily and feel like second skin. Frankly, I developed a blind spot when it came to American SPF complaints. Chalky textures, greasy finishes, and white casts that leave you looking like a ghost? It all sounded a touch dramatic… until I ran out of my Korean stash.

After months of rotating through American formulas that make me want to wash my face the second I apply them, consider me humbled. Finding a Goldilocks SPF isn’t always so simple stateside—and I get why so many people are reluctant to apply sun protection daily.

Fortunately, the American sunscreen aisle is finally getting a refresh that may start to give international formulas a run for their money. It might just appease critics like me, too. In June, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) added bemotrizinol to its list of permitted sunscreen active ingredients, giving U.S. brands the chance to update their formulas with a filter that’s been used in other markets including Europe, Asia, and Australia for years. The first of the updated products are now starting to roll out—and I’m hopeful that they’ll tide me over until my next trip to Seoul.

Bemotrizinol 101 and the road to approval

Bemotrizinol (a.k.a. BEMT) is a broad-spectrum chemical filter that absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. (UVA rays contribute to premature skin aging and also play a role in skin cancer, while UVB rays are primarily responsible for sunburn.) It’s photostable, meaning it holds up well when exposed to sunlight, and pairs well with other chemical and mineral filters. Derms prize it not just for its lightweight texture but also its low potential for irritation and general suitability for those with sensitive skin, including conditions like eczema and rosacea.

While bemotrizinol isn’t guaranteed to yield a superior sunscreen—wearability ultimately comes down to the specific combination of ingredients at hand—it’s a highly regarded tool used in countless formulas that people don’t balk at applying.

And it’s been a long time coming. Manufacturers and nonprofit organizations have been trying to get bemotrizinol approved for nearly two decades, trudging uphill against an archaic system. The FDA classifies sunscreen not as a cosmetic but a drug. This requires more time and testing to get sunscreens on shelves, creating friction while limiting innovation. (For reference, the last sunscreen filter was approved way back in 1999.) We’re well behind leading beauty and grooming markets worldwide, who have far more filters to work with that drive their elegant SPF options. Bemotrizinol’s arrival doesn’t magically bring the American sunscreen industry up to speed overnight, but it does give formulators a worthy ingredient to work with.