Last year, The Row started selling vintage furniture on a mysterious web page labeled “Galerie,” but has anyone noticed that that selection contains clothing now too?
Cited as a partnership with downtown darling Desert Vintage, an Orchard street haunt known fondly by pretty much every stylist in the tri-state area, The Row now stocks a variety of hyper-expensive vintage garments alongside their own hyper-expensive clothing. Whereas we know the cost of a Margaux bag, these vintage pieces are “price upon request.” Some are even antique, resembling art deco costumes from Fritz Lang’s Metropolis.
Most noteworthy among the listings, especially given recent conversation surrounding the brand, is a vintage belted Yohji Yamamoto dress from 2000. It seems like, since the viral red Dune thong entered the fancy flip-flop controversy of 2025, people have started to openly scrutinize The Row, down to whether or not the brand is a Jil Sander dupe (it very clearly isn’t) or a Yohji dupe.
Creative directors Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have never been shy about which designers they look up to, openly naming “chic women” along with Yohji as inspirations. Fashion theorist Rian Phin pointed this out in a Tweet detailing The Row’s occasional homages to Yohji, with several receipts.
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The vintage Yohji dress feels like a tongue-in-cheek recognition of this conversation by The Row, especially because they seem to be paying attention. Last October, VIC and independent content creator Neelam Ahooja published a viral open letter to the brand on Substack in which she alleged that brand insiders invited her to peek behind the curtain in exchange for “dictating” her work. In a YouTube video on the subject, Ahooja claimed that The Row’s team would discourage her from posting about other brands, suggesting that they were monitoring her Instagram account.
Maybe it’s too dramatic to connect any of this to Yohji appearing in The Row’s “Galerie.” But it does feel like an odd coincidence considering conversations surrounding the brand over the past year. And The Row thrives on odd… as in, keeping up the appearance that it does things differently. The brand maintains a stoic face to uphold the austerity of the clothing, but it does what every luxury brand does, because it has to: read the comments and respond, at most, with a wink.
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