A Brief Guide to Going Out During Art Basel Paris

There’s no shortage of detailed guides telling visitors to Paris where exactly to eat and drink. That’s not what this guide is. This is an extremely specific roundup for an extremely specific week: Art Basel Paris, when the international art world comes to town, and everyone sifts through five dinner invitations per night—perhaps skipping them all to go to a restaurant they made a reservation at months ago.

Based on my experience on the ground at Art Basel in Paris this year, and during previous years, here’s a look at where the artists, gallery owners, collectors, and advisers are stopping by while in Paris—at least, until the fair closes early on Friday, due to planned protests.

The Bristol Bar

Conveniently located next to all the Matignon galleries, The Bristol is the hotel of choice for many modish art world folks who leave Le Meurice and the Ritz to a slightly older generation. The Bristol Bar is where everyone ends up before, during, and after the openings. While walking through on my way to a meeting Wednesday evening, I saw at least three billionaires posted up in various parts of the bar—esteemed art collectors all. Around them was a constellation of auction house representatives, private dealers, and artists.

Brasserie Lipp

How many restaurants in Paris have their own literary prize? Hmm. Well, it’s actually quite a few—but how many restaurants can claim Kate Moss has danced on their tables? Fine: Come to think of it, plenty of restaurants can claim that. But there’s only one restaurant with a literary prize and tables Kate Moss has danced on. That’s Brasserie Lipp. It’s usually the fashion world’s go-to canteen, but thanks to Miu Miu, the art world got dinner there during Art Basel Paris to celebrate Alice Diop’s commission.

Chez George

I was offered seats at a Chez George reservation a few times this week, but had to turn down the offer each time due to scheduling conflicts. I should be arrested! Chez George is one of the best-known old-world bistros among the jet set, but proved an especially hot table this week. Which is funny, because the place is as old-school as it gets: traditional without a single acknowledgment of current fads. Absolutely nothing trendy about it. Perfect!

Le Voltaire

The most storied art restaurant in Paris—it’s been around in some form since the 19th century, then became a Lost Generation hub in the 20th, then saw the postwar galleries spring up around its Left Bank side streets in the ’50s and ’60s. It’s still as relevant as ever. Jay Jopling gets dinner there. What more do you need?

Bistrot des Tournelles

I snagged a reservation there last year, and had one of the more mind-blowing meals in recent Paris memory: a sneakily expert presentation of bistro fare amid a just-so-touched-up old restaurant. It’s gotten some press in the last 12 months, and more often than not I heard people complaining about a lack of a reservation rather than a booked table.