If there is one thing that the French know how to do, it is fight for their rights. It’s not for the goodness of politicians' hearts that university fees in France are still €178 for a bachelor's degree – compared with tuition fees of up to £9,790 a year in England for a standard course – but thanks to a population that refuses to back down when their rights are being threatened.
Since September, French high-school students have been fighting for better conditions, especially in suburban areas often forgotten by institutions. The movement has reached almost unprecedented proportions, with other sectors joining the students, demanding better learning conditions, fighting against the cost-of-living crisis, the hike in fuel prices and the erosion of social welfare.
Protesters march through central Paris amid fires
Getty ImagesI have seen many protests during my years in France, but nothing like what’s unfolding right now. It’s important, however, to distinguish between peaceful demonstrators and those involved in vandalism, violence or looting. Although not always of this magnitude, violence and looting have also marred some previous large-scale gatherings in France, whether it’s France winning a football match or students fighting for their rights.
Does that mean Paris – and France as a whole – is now a no-go zone? No, it doesn’t. Certain streets and neighbourhoods may be affected by demonstrations, police operations or temporary closures, but the disruption is not necessarily city-wide. You can still come to Paris during this time and enjoy yourself, provided you keep informed and keep your wits about you when navigating the city. You might have to change some of your plans, but the good thing about Paris is that you can be here for decades, like me, and still discover new beautiful corners.
France protests: Here is what to do if you are travelling to Paris
Choose your neighbourhood wisely
When visiting a city, we all tend to want to stay as central as possible, but this is not a good idea when protests are happening. Avoid booking a hotel close to main squares or places of particular significance such as République, Bastille, Nation and Place de Clichy. Paris is not big and quite easy to navigate from wherever you are – at this time, choose to stay in quieter, residential areas. I suggest residential areas on the Rive Gauche like the 15th and 14th, or the 13th arrondissements. I particularly like the 15th as it has a lot of cute boutique hotels, and it’s close to some lovely places to visit like the Musée Bourdelle.
Stay informed
Although authorised peaceful demonstrations are planned in advance, looters do not give a heads up before they take to the streets, so make sure you keep an eye on French news. For metro closures and issues with public transport, check the Bonjour RATP website, while the Préfecture de Police also publishes information about demonstrations, traffic restrictions and security measures – it’s worth following them on X for immediate information. When it comes to news outlets, Franceinfo and Le Monde are reliable French news outlets, so it’s good to keep an eye on their websites. Although outlets such as Le Monde publish in English, their French-language coverage may offer more frequent local updates.
Keep your itinerary flexible
I know it’s sad not to be able to stick to your plans, but for your safety it is better to avoid certain areas and attractions while protests are unfolding. Big institutions like the Louvre and the Élysée Palace are better avoided; instead, visit some of the city's niche sights and smaller museums. Instead of the Louvre or the Musée d’Orsay, you could visit the beautiful Musée Gustave Moreau in the 9th or the Musée Zadkine in the 6th, depending on where you are staying. Big touristy spots like the Eiffel Tower are open and busy – if you don’t feel comfortable but still want a picture with the Eiffel Tower in the background, head to Île aux Cygnes to see the tiny Statue of Liberty and the Tower in all her glory, but from a safe distance.