It’s fairly impossible to overstate the popularity of Scandinavian fashion brands at present. Just recently, Ganni marked its 10th anniversary, celebrating the fact that it went from obscure cashmere brand to one of the most ubiquitous street style sights in no time at all. But they’re not the only Danish export to emerge victorious – brands like Saks Potts, Cecilie Bahnsen and Brøgger are all enjoying more attention thanks to events like Copenhagen Fashion Week (and an army of Insta girls wearing them, of course). One brand who has been quietly dressing some of the coolest Scandi girls, however, is Baum und Pferdgarten, now celebrating two decades in the business.
Launched in 1999 by creative directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave – two friends who met at the Royal Academy of Design in Copenhagen 25 years ago – the brand is now available in more than 25 countries around the world, can be seen on some of the most influential fashion show-goers and yet is still relatively under-the-radar. But Baumgarten is still most surprised by the fact that they’re celebrating 20 years. ‘We’re really most proud that we actually got this far!’ she says. ‘We started our company without any money, knowledge or experience, just ideas and a vision. We got to where we are today through hard work and never giving up. We are always so proud seeing all the amazing women that wear Baum und Pferdgarten and are so grateful for all our retail and wholesale partners who have supported us along the way.’
Indeed, one look at the streets of Copenhagen over the past week, as fashion week has been in full flow, means you will have seen countless Baum und Pferdgarten designs, from checked, tailored suits to sheer, tulle dresses. Their pieces are distinctive while still feeling wearable – and playful, too. But how would the designers themselves categorise their style? ‘We are huge fans of the oversized look,’ says Hestehave. ‘An oversized blazer is a must have piece in any wardrobe. We have always designed clothes for women who love to dress for themselves, not for anyone else.’
Recent trends have seen an increase in longer hemlines, higher necklines and more oversized silhouettes – all of which have always been integral to Baum’s brand identity. Many have drawn connections between this and the #MeToo movement, suggesting that women are dressing for themselves now more than ever. ‘Maybe this ‘new wave’ is a reflection of the increased focus on self-care,’ Baumgarten says. If so, that tends to be a recurring theme from a lot of the Scandi brands – silhouettes are voluminous, almost rejecting a traditional concept of feminine sexuality, for example.
The clothes feel like they’re designed for women, rather than through the gaze of a man. ‘Danish style is extremely cool but still accessible, it is stylish and comfortable at the same time. It can be very ‘in your face’ but there are always ways to dress it down and feel casual,’ says Hestehave. ‘Then there’s the quality of the products plus the focus on sustainability which is hugely important to us and is becoming more and more important to our customers.’
Sustainability is a long-term goal for the brand. As Baumgarten says, ‘It is something we consider in everything we do but there is no easy overnight fix, it is a journey. Our aim is to continuously reduce the negative environmental impact of each collection – in our most recent SS20 collection, over 40 per cent of the clothes were made using responsible fabrics. This month we will actually be announcing our five year plan to take us where we want to be, so watch this space.’
Whether you’re after an everyday midi dress that’s easy to wear or something more directional, like an oversized pink tunic worn over cycling shorts and with an organza bucket hat, Baum und Pferdgarten seems to deliver both effortlessly and without either seeming incongruous in any way. For that reason, it’s one of the most interesting brands to shop at its price point – another factor that makes it so appealing. Dresses, for example, can be anything from £99 for a polka dot wrap dress to £429 for printed, billowing silk. It’s competitive but, to tell the truth, endlessly more original than many labels operating at the same price point.
Investing in sustainability is, for both Baumgarten and Hestehave, the main focus for the future. But it has to fit with their inclusive, fun aesthetic that is designed to appeal to a varied crowd. ‘We love seeing women of all ages wearing Baum. Baum is for women who are comfortable in their own skin, who love to express themselves through what they wear.'