Hidden views and spicy cocktails: Inside Civic's new rooftop venue

There's a new bar in town, and the location will need some explaining.

Subscribe now for unlimited access.

or signup to continue reading

In fact, it opens up a whole new view of Civic, in a space barely anyone knew existed.

It has to be a kind of milestone for a city, to have unused spaces that give you a whole new view of the precinct, and a whole new vista to take in.

Oh My Papa co-owners Aya Lertaromrat, Chief Pattanakajorn and Nikki Lertaromrat. Picture by Karleen Minney

Oh My Papa is next to Kingpin in the Canberra Centre (this descriptor won't help until you see it), and has two levels - a sparkly Asian fusion restaurant, with a rooftop bar on top. A lift carries you between the two, adding to the funky, where-the-hell-am-I vibe of the whole thing.

Upstairs, amid the plants and graffiti-inspired decor, the open windows look out onto Bunda Street and the rooftops beyond, an excellent place to enjoy a long afternoon or late evening, with a steady stream of Asian-fusion sharing plates and cocktails.

Oh My Papa, with a whole new view of Civic. Picture by Karleen Minney

It's being run by a dynamic trio of Thai migrants from Newcastle, Nikki Lertaromrat, her sister Aya and business partner Chief Pattanakajorn.

Ms Lertaromrat says the name is inspired by her relationship with her own father - she and her sister are constantly calling him out for not letting them do things, even as adults.

She runs another Oh My Papa in Newcastle, a city she and her then-husband Mr Pattanakajorn moved to for study some years ago. The bar she opened in 2021, featuring punchy Asian and cheeky cocktails, was so popular, it had to expand into the venue next door.

Edgy Asian-inspired cocktails at Oh My Papa. Picture supplied

By then, she was already a known quantity in Newcastle, having already opened two Thai eateries, The Humble Thai and The Grateful Thai.

These were a joint effort between Ms Lertaromrat and Mr Pattanakajorn, while Oh My Papa brought all of her favourite dishes from across Asia together on one menu.

But when she heard of an unused rooftop venue in one of Canberra's most happening precincts, her ears pricked up.

I know that Canberra has never had a rooftop bar before, so when I heard about it, my partner and I were really interested," she says.

"Like, maybe this is the great spot for us."

Coming into an already thriving precinct - albeit in a city with a very different climate to Newcastle - Ms Lertaromrat says the venue already feels like the kind of place that will become a go-to for anyone wanting a long night out in Civic.

Punchy Asian goodness at Oh My Papa. Picture supplied

"We want people to come in for lunch or dinner and end up staying for drinks, good conversations and a few laughs," she says.

"The rooftop is one of the things we're most excited about. We think Canberrans will love having somewhere they can come for dinner, head upstairs for drinks and enjoy the atmosphere without needing to go anywhere else.

"It's the kind of place where you might head upstairs thinking you'll just have one drink, and suddenly realise it's three hours later."

While she and her team have a restaurant background, cocktails will be the thing at Canberra's Oh My Papa - with cheeky names (Baby I'm Thirsty, Papa Don't Preach) and unexpected flavour combinations. Expect some spice!

The menu is designed for sharing, with a range of Thai, Japanese, Malaysian, Vietnamese and Chinese offerings.

Inside Oh My Papa, soon to open in Civic. Picture by Karleen Minney

Highlights include smoky chicken yakitori, crispy karaage chicken bao buns and caramelised pork belly, balancing rich, sweet and savoury flavours. For something more substantial, the massaman lamb shank is slow-cooked until tender and served with a fragrant curry made from house-made paste.

OK, now I'm starving, and a cocktail wouldn't go astray.

• Oh My Papa is set to open later this month.