A choli from Surat, a chaniya from Vadodara, Navratri glares from Amazon, metal handcuffs and a quirky musafir ring from an Instagram seller. Boxes arrive at my doorstep one after the other. I am already besotted with Navratri bindis and tattoos, while hair accessories, haathphool and more sit in my shopping cart. It’s Navratri and I plan to go full swing with bling.
Putting together an outfit for garba is no longer just about finding a colourful chaniya-choli. There are nine nights and nine looks for enthusiasts. The preparations begin months in advance — with fabric, jewellery, makeup and accessories — planned well before the first beat of the dhol. For some, it is literally a year-round exercise.
Most men are also experimenting with fabrics and designs for Navratri. Rutvij Mistry, a professor in the Fine Arts Department at Maharaja Sayajirao University, in Vadodara, and a passionate garba dancer, is one such enthusiast. He designs his own outfits and has been experimenting with layered costumes since 2014. His ensembles include two or three flared skirts, sometimes worn with a jacket, with different fabrics and textures brought together in layers. “The heavier the costume, the more I enjoy dancing. I need that weight in my costume,” he says.
For those who want to dance in style, the next Navratri begins almost as soon as the current one ends. Finding the right fabric and design and coordinating with people who make the outfits are time-consuming. The costumes can be used for three to four years, but people keep finding ways to restyle them.
Men are becoming as experimental as women when putting together their festive attire. | Photo Credit: Getty Images
A statement-making Garba look is never complete without accessories that add an extra touch of festive glamour. For women, accessorising is a head-to-toe affair, with choices spanning the quirky and contemporary to the timeless charm of old-world elegance. For men, too, the variety is mind-boggling, beginning with the pagdi, a carefully considered element of the ensemble. Rutvij ties it himself and matches it with the outfit to elevate the look. “There is a cause hidden behind this effort — supporting craftspeople,” he says. He visits textile fairs or searches online for handlooms and handmade accessories. Considered a trendsetter for his experimental looks, Rutvij dances with abandon at various garba grounds, particularly Lukshmi Vilas Palace Heritage Garba, in Vadodara. This year, he is experimenting with large floral designs and traditional textiles such as patola, chanderi and gajji.
The growing popularity of garba and dandiya nights beyond Gujarat has opened up a market for festive fashion that reaches far beyond the local shops. A few days before Navratri, scrolling online is akin to walking the lanes of Surat and Rajkot. Enterprising sellers open different chaniya choli sets and even showcase the minute details, take orders and ship outfits to customers across borders. Shopping for garba has become easier for people who do not live in Gujarat.
Radhika Raje Gaekwad of Vadodara’s erstwhile royal family helms the Lukshmi Vilas Palace Heritage Garba. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Haathphool, statement ear cuffs, oversized rings, metal hand cuffs and decorative phone slings are also making their way into the festive wardrobe. Hair accessories embellished parandis, colourful scrunchies, hair bows, floral pieces and decorated hair chains are in this season. The idea is to make every detail complement the outfit, whether the overall mood is traditional or bohemian.
Tattoos are also a part of the Navratri look. Neck tattoos, popularised by Bollywood films, are treanding this festive season. Deepika Padukone's neck tattoo in Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela is a big inspiration for those looking to stand out. There are ample brands that offer Navratri-themed designs inspired by rangoli, traditional navratri motifs and garba, including semi-permanent options.
Who can forget the nails? Social media is flooded with edgy Navratri nail art, with raised designs and decorative elements such as tiiny ghungroos threaded through a loop in nail extensions.
Not everyone follows garba fashion trends. Radhika Raje Gaekwad, a member of Vadodara’s erstwhile royal family who helms the Lukshmi Vilas Palace Heritage Garba, is keen to preserve the form of garba she knows well.
Tradition gets a trendy makeover | Photo Credit: Getty Images
The small neighbourhood gatherings known as sheri garba were intimate affairs, with people coming together to sing, dance and pray in nooks and corners across Gujarat. As cities burst at the seams, large venues, DJs, Bollywood tracks and elaborate stage productions have become part of the wider Navratri scene.
According to Radhika, the traditional form continues to hold its ground in Vadodara. The music is sung live, without Bollywood tracks, and familiar steps such as Teen Taali and Dodhiyu remain central. The movements are simple enough for large groups to follow.
For Radhika, that sense of community is also a reason to use the festival as a platform for inclusion. The Lukshmi Vilas Palace Heritage Garba welcomes people of all genders and opens its doors to LGBTQIA+ participants. For her, preserving garba is not limited to keeping its music and movements alive. By making space for people across genders and identities, she hopes to ensure that this centuries-old tradition remains relevant to a changing society.