Updated ,first published
Italian$$$
Elegance and panache on a buzzy inner-city strip.
Between the thrum of diners chatting and the clang of an open kitchen, your ears will also pick up the chime of spoons scraping the last dregs of pasta sauce from bowls. Well-drilled staff bring warm ciabatta rolls with cultured butter to every table, but trying to save some for the impending moppage is futile – it’s too good.
Ilaria is a sibling of Tipo 00, so excellent pasta is in its DNA. Silky ribbons of paccheri are tossed in anchovy butter and served over a bed of Meredith Goat ragu humming with chilli and fennel. But smaller plates are arguably the true gold.
Smoked eel and spanner crab share the limelight on a bite-sized cracker. Pickled green tomato, charred cabbage and mustard oil send shockwaves through a riff on the Tuscan bread and tomato soup pappa al pomodoro. A delightfully savoury basil cheesecake pings with fresh cara cara orange, an inspired end to a beguiling journey.
Best for: Whether first date or 10th anniversary, Osteria is built to impress.
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Last visited: June 2026
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