6 Expert-Approved Skincare Swaps To Make Now That It’s Autumn

My skin senses the autumn creeping in before I do. Long before pumpkin spice appears on the menu and the air takes on a chill, my lips begin to crack, the delicate skin beneath my eyes feels tight and crepey, and no amount of make-up sits right. That’s when I know the lightweight skincare routine that saw me through summer – watery essences, featherlight serums and barely-there moisturisers – simply won’t cut it as the mercury continues to drop.

The culprit, explains aesthetician and skincare expert Alicia Lartey, is transepidermal water loss – the process of moisture escaping through the skin as a result of the colder atmosphere and lower humidity levels. It’s not just the weather taking its toll, though. “Another lesser-known impact on the skin that contributes to dryness is irritation from increased friction caused by layers of winter clothes rubbing against the skin,” she says.

How to prepare your skin for autumn

Adapting your skincare routine (and your wardrobe) to the changing seasons is easier said than done, but a few smart tweaks can go a long way. With that in mind, I asked doctors, dermatologists and aestheticians to pinpoint the seasonal skincare swaps that make the most sense – and the biggest difference – as autumn gives way to winter. Here’s everything they told me.

Swap: Heavy creams for lightweight – but layered – hydration

When winter dryness abounds, you’d be forgiven for reaching for the richest moisturiser you can find. Something heavier isn’t always the answer, though, says Lartey. “Most people switch their skincare routine for winter and miss signs of congestion that may have built up in summer, then further exacerbate the issue by opting for more occlusive products in their winter routine,” she says.

Instead of making a beeline for formulas filled to bursting with rich butters and oils, consider a lighter moisturiser that combines moisture-attracting ingredients like glycerin with barrier-supporting ceramides, which act like glue between skin cells, keeping skin healthy and smooth. That way, you aren’t skimping on nourishment, but giving your skin ample hydration without potentially clogging your pores.

Swap: Hyaluronic acid for its underrated rival, urea

Hyaluronic acid has long been championed as a go-to ingredient for hydration, but it’s not the best for alleviating winter dryness – especially if rough, flaky skin is a concern. That’s where urea comes in, says Lartey. Even better, it exfoliates as it hydrates: “Urea works extremely well as a natural moisturising factor, but at concentrations above seven to 10 per cent, it can be an effective keratolytic ingredient,” says Lartey – in other words, it helps chip away at dull, dead skin cells while drawing in moisture. “During the colder months, I often recommend clients switch from hyaluronic acid [moisturisers] to [ones containing] urea if they’re particularly concerned with dryness of rough skin texture,” adds Lartey.

Swap: Exfoliating acids for gentler, hydrating formulas

Your trusty glycolic or salicylic acid toner might have served you well throughout summer when the skin is oilier and potentially prone to congestion, but Dr Zainab Laftah, a consultant dermatologist at The Shard, says that it’s worth reassessing how often you reach for it when the weather turns. “Colder air, wind, falling humidity and indoor heating can contribute to moisture loss and disruption of the skin barrier,” says Dr Laftah, “and using exfoliating ingredients too frequently when the skin barrier is already struggling can result in dryness and irritation.” If your skin is particularly sensitive, she suggests swapping your exfoliating toner for a hydrating alternative containing moisture-boosting glycerin or hyaluronic acid, barrier-supporting ceramides, or soothing colloidal oatmeal. If you still want to exfoliate, opt for a cleanser containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), to gently remove dead skin cells without prolonged contact with the skin.

Swap: Strong actives for skin-friendly peptides

You don’t have to ditch your retinoid the minute the temperature drops, but if your skin starts feeling tight, dry or more sensitive, it might be worth easing off. Consultant dermatologist Dr Sidra Khan recommends cutting back from nightly use to every other evening, or even just a few times a week, while your skin adjusts. If you’re still experiencing irritation, she suggests stepping down to a gentler retinoid, for example, swapping high-strength retinal for gentler retinol, or temporarily switching to a peptide formula.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that help boost collagen in the skin, leaving it looking smoother and feeling firmer over time. “SkinCeuticals P-TIOX Cream and No7 Future Renew Night Cream are favourites of mine, because you get the peptide technology in a more moisturising cream base,” says Dr Khan.

Swap: Your serums for a moisturiser with the same active ingredients

If there’s an ingredient you love in serum form – think vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or peptides – Dr Khan recommends stepping up your hydration game by switching to a moisturiser containing the same active ingredients. “You don’t need to change all of your ingredients when the seasons shift,” says Dr Khan, adding, “Sometimes, it’s as simple as changing the texture they’re delivered in.” If your skin becomes drier, she says you might want to move from a lightweight vitamin C or peptide serum to a more moisturising cream-based formulation containing the same active. It’ll do the same job, only in a more quenching formula.

Swap: High shine for deep hydration

It’s a common misconception that all lip glosses are hydrating. In fact, many formulas – particularly the “plumping” kind – contain ingredients such as menthol, camphor and benzocaine, which can irritate the delicate skin on your lips. While they might offer temporary relief or make lips feel smoother initially, they can exacerbate dryness over time – especially if you’re prone to irritation.

Instead, Dr Rasha Rahkshani, a cosmetic doctor and founder of Dr Rasha Clinic, recommends a rich, conditioning balm that not only delivers hydration but keeps it under lock and key. Look for a formula that combines humectants, such as hyaluronic and glycerin, which draw moisture into the skin, with emollients like shea butter, lanolin, petrolatum or squalane to soften and smooth the lips. Her Hydrating and Nourishing Lip Balm proves you don’t have to sacrifice shine, delivering a glossy finish with the added benefit of nourishing ingredients. Also try the new Raybalm Rescue Balm, which combines moisture-attracting hyaluronic acid and glycerin with peptides, leaving lips feeling softer, smoother and hydrated for longer.