Can I really see myself living in PNG?
It’s a question NRL players, coaches and officials, intrigued by the prospect of banking tax-free dollars, are asking themselves as the PNG Chiefs prepare to enter their first free-agency period on the player market. It’s an impossible question to answer without travelling to the Pacific nation and experiencing the lifestyle first-hand.
Which is why former Manly and Bulldogs half Trent Hodkinson and his wife, Chantelle, decided to tour the facilities before they committed to the sea change. Hodkinson, who had previously spent time in Port Moresby during his playing days, had been earmarked to become one of coach Willie Peters’ assistants.
The couple, who have lived in NSW and Queensland, share a spirit of adventure. They were keen to experience life in England, before injuries prematurely cut short the former NSW halfback’s playing career. Now a unique opportunity had presented itself in PNG ahead of the Chiefs entry into the NRL in 2028, but they first wanted to double-check if relocating would work for them and their two children, aged six and three.
After just a few days in PNG, they had their answer.
“It’s a great, unique opportunity to be part of something special, to live here, and to bring the family over,” Hodkinson said. “I think that’s exciting – not many people get to do that.
“That’s the type of people Chantelle and I are, we want our kids to embrace and experience different countries and cultures. What better place to do it than Papua New Guinea, where rugby league is life?”
On Wednesday, the Chiefs revealed their inaugural jersey. Which players are prepared to fill them when their campaign kicks off in 2028 is the biggest story in rugby league as a raft of superstars prepare to hit the open market on November 1.
While the Hodkinsons decided it would suit them, the fit may not work for other members of the Australian league community.
“This is not going to be for everyone,” Chiefs coach Willie Peters conceded.
“Some people might prefer where they are, while others will look at this and see it as where they want to play, get better, and do something for something bigger than themselves – a club doing something for a country.
“For me, I was no different than anyone else. You need to make sure it works for your family, but it needs to be bigger than that. A lot of people will be making sacrifices to be here. My wife is coming over, my youngest son is coming over, and everyone’s situation will be different.”
The living arrangements will be very different from what the game’s stars are used to in Sydney or Brisbane. Chiefs players will be seeing a lot of the airport, and it’s not just because they are travelling to away games every second week. Their vista will be the tarmac of the adjoining Jacksons International Airport.
They will reside at Airways, described on their website as an “oasis of understated luxury”. “Understated” being the key word. This is not Hayman Island. There are two primary restaurants, one swimming pool, a children’s playground and adjoining green space, although it currently looks more brown than green due to a lack of rain.
They will live in one of the new residences under construction, in the hope they will be ready for the arrival of players in 12 months’ time. The facility – descriptions alternate between “five-star resort” and “compound” – will be their home for the length of their stay.
The prices for food, for the most part, are on par with those in Sydney. A 250g Black Angus Steak Diane at the Airways’ Bacchus restaurant costs the equivalent of $56.
Then there’s the immaculately presented Waterfront Supermarket in town, where the label of every single product is turned to face the consumer. There you can do a weekly shop and pick up fresh produce at reasonable prices; a loaf of bread for $2.25 (Australian), bananas are $3 per kg, a pack of thin beef sausages are just $A3.80 a pack, double smoked ham is $14.50 per kg. However, imported goods are more expensive – for instance, a two-litre bottle of Biozet Attack laundry liquid is $40.
For the most part, the players will live in a bubble, as they did during COVID-19, far removed from the fans who so adore them. Living in close proximity during the lockdowns brought some teams – most notably Penrith – closer together. Others felt like the walls were closing in.
“We have to be realistic, we can’t pretend we’re like any other football club. We’re not, we’re unique,” said Chiefs general manager Michael Chammas.
“I’ve done a lot of homework on teams that succeeded during the Covid bubble. When you talk to the Penrith players, the best time of their lives was the covid bubble.
“They loved it, their families loved it, they wish they could go back to Twin Waters. A big part of that was they lived in an open space, the kids could run about. They had a great team environment and they had success.
“I’ve spent some time with the Warriors, they had a lot of time on the road during that period. [Warriors CEO] Cameron George said the biggest single challenge is keeping the families happy. That’s our biggest challenge. We know that.
“Even if we have good players, we’re only as good as the environment that’s being created where we live. If the partners and kids aren’t happy, then players we sign won’t be happy.”
Life in PNG will be very different to what players are accustomed to. Things they take for granted – being able to drink the tap water, reliable Wi-Fi or moving through the community without security – will be sacrificed.
The adjustment is likely to be easiest for the footballers. They will be given a routine and purpose that will help them fill their days. If you’re a player who wants to knuckle down and focus on your career, it can be done in Port Moresby without distraction.
However, the transition is likely to be harder for partners and kids. In the case of Hodkinson’s wife Chantelle, her employer will afford her an opportunity to continue her interior design work remotely. Whether other wives and girlfriends receive the same flexibility to pursue their careers, or enjoy an active social life, remains to be seen. If left behind on away footy trips, boredom could become an issue.
Peters, Chammas and recruiter Liam Ayoub have opted not to pursue several potential signings in the belief they wouldn’t handle the unique environment in PNG.
There will be chances to experience a change of scenery. There are several private getaways, such as Loloata Island, where families can swim, snorkel and be pampered. However, the majority of their time will be spent at Airways.
“We need to find downtime, because everyone is different,” Peters said. “You can’t be with each other 24/7 and then play on the weekend through the roller coaster of a season. We need to work out ways for players to get away, and there are some beautiful places here to go.”
Papua New Guineans are friendly, but most live in abject poverty. If you see a footballer playing a game with just one shoe, you know that it will be worn on his kicking foot. Given Port Moresby is regularly ranked among the top-five most dangerous cities in the world, there are few opportunities to mix with the locals without a security detail. There’s a reason why tax-free dollars are being offered.
“We’re going to have challenges, no doubt,” Peters said. “The first thing is to try and bring in as many great people as possible who want to be here; that’s the key. You’ve got to want to go on this journey, because if you’re doing it just for tax-free dollars, it’s going to be difficult.”
Adrian Proszenko travelled to Port Moresby as a guest of the PNG Chiefs.
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