Akio Naito is taking Grand Seiko to the world

WHEN Akio Naito took over as president of Seiko Watch Corporation in April 2021, he was leading a watch business with a global footprint but also a brand with a perception problem to overcome. For all of Seiko’s achievements in watchmaking, convincing the world that Grand Seiko belonged in the upper echelons of luxury watchmaking would prove a different challenge altogether.

Naito, who joined Seiko in 1984, did not begin his career in watchmaking or marketing, but in the company’s legal department. Over the years, he took on management roles in Australia and Japan before being tasked with developing Grand Seiko in the US, where he became chairman and chief executive of Grand Seiko Corporation of America in 2018. His international experience would prove valuable in an industry where heritage, craftsmanship and brand perception can be as important as the watches themselves.

Grand Seiko made its international debut in 2010, having spent much of its earlier history serving the Japanese market. But overseas expansion was initially slow. Consumers and retailers often associated the Seiko name with accessible, mid-priced watches, making it difficult to establish Grand Seiko as a credible alternative to established Swiss luxury brands.

A turning point came in 2017, when Grand Seiko formally separated its branding from Seiko, giving it a distinct identity and a clearer proposition for international customers.

The subsequent growth has been striking, as the brand has steadily expanded its presence in key markets, particularly the US.

Today, Grand Seiko is increasingly recognised for its meticulous finishing, precision engineering and distinctly Japanese approach to design, often drawing inspiration from the country’s landscapes and changing seasons. Its Spring Drive technology, which combines a mainspring-driven power source with an electronic regulator, has also helped distinguish it from its Swiss rivals.

That identity is rooted in Japan’s watchmaking ateliers. Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in Iwate prefecture is dedicated to its mechanical watches, with watchmakers assembling, adjusting and inspecting each timepiece by hand. Designed by architect Kengo Kuma, the wooden studio sits amid forests with views of Mount Iwate, reflecting the brand’s philosophy of “The Nature of Time”. 

In Nagano prefecture, the Shinshu Watch Studio produces Spring Drive and quartz models and houses the Micro Artist Studio, where master craftsmen create and finish some of the brand’s most exclusive timepieces.

Last but not least, in Tokyo’s Ginza district, Atelier Ginza carries forward Seiko’s watchmaking heritage at the company’s birthplace. It was established in 2022 as the creative home of the designers, craftsmen and watchmakers behind the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, a technically ambitious timepiece that combines a tourbillon with a constant-force mechanism.

In an interview with The Business Times, Naito discusses how Grand Seiko blends traditional Japanese aesthetics with cutting-edge movements to redefine luxury watchmaking on the global stage:

Q. As consumer perceptions of luxury continue to evolve beyond traditional markers like price and exclusivity, how is Grand Seiko interpreting what modern luxury means and how does that shape the way Grand Seiko designs, crafts, and presents the brand today?

A. Indeed, in a world where people can check the time on many devices, luxury watches are items with emotional value and are now defined not only by how well they tell time, but by how deeply they resonate with wearers. This is precisely what Grand Seiko seeks to achieve: a strong emotional resonance with those who wear our watches.

That resonance is created through Grand Seiko’s unique heritage, distinctive aesthetics, exceptional craftsmanship, and innovative technologies. These elements are not intended merely to be decorative or rare; they embody our brand philosophy, “The Nature of Time”. For example: A uniquely Japanese appreciation of nature, as reflected in our iconic nature-inspired dials. The gliding motion of the Spring Drive seconds hand, which captures the Japanese sense of harmony with the natural flow of time. 

Q. Grand Seiko is deeply rooted in Japanese craftsmanship and aesthetics. How do you preserve that identity while expanding globally?

A. One of the defining elements of our identity in the global watch market is, indeed, our position as a Japanese luxury watch brand. We take great pride in this, creating our watches with a uniquely Japanese sense of beauty and a distinctive philosophy towards watchmaking. These qualities are expressed in every one of our timepieces, allowing watch enthusiasts around the world to appreciate them intuitively. A central concept that underpins Grand Seiko is the mindset of “Dou”, which is the determination to achieve perfection in every aspect of a given endeavour.

This constant search for perfection is deeply embedded in all our watchmaking, inspiring our watchmakers, designers, and craftspeople, and resulting in elements that define Grand Seiko – such as the harmonious interplay of light and shadow, achieved through meticulous Zaratsu polishing. Another important example is mitate in Japanese which can be translated in English as “metaphor”, a concept central to our design language, and a traditional Japanese aesthetic that evokes rather than depicts.

Through this approach, most notably expressed in our iconic nature-inspired dials, we translate our uniquely Japanese sensibility toward nature, which is deeply rooted in Japan, into a form that resonates with people around the world. We intend to continue upholding these distinctive, Japanese-rooted philosophies and forms of expression as we expand further on the global stage. 

Q. Historically, the luxury watch space is dominated predominantly by Swiss players. Where do you see Grand Seiko’s competitive edge in this landscape?

A. It is true that Swiss brands have historically led the luxury watch industry, and I have great respect for their heritage. At the same time, we are seeing how Japanese culture and craftsmanship are gaining increasing attention globally, and our cultural perspective provides a clear point of differentiation from traditional Swiss watchmaking. Younger generations, in particular, place great value on individuality and authenticity as opposed to simply following an established reputation, and in that context, Grand Seiko resonates strongly.

While we have a long history in Japan since the 1960s, our presence in the global market is still regarded as relatively fresh and distinctive, which appeals to such audiences. Grand Seiko has been pursuing a high level of watchmaking since the 1960s. This longstanding commitment to innovation and excellence in watchmaking is a key strength of the brand. Even today, we continue to push technological boundaries. In recent years, we have introduced the 9SA series of mechanical High-Beat movements and advanced our proprietary Spring Drive technology with developments such as the U.F.A., further refining its value in terms of precision and performance. This combination of cultural distinctiveness and innovative technology resulting from the longstanding pursuit of watchmaking defines Grand Seiko’s competitive edge in the global watch industry. 

Q. Grand Seiko has been evolving its product range and positioning in recent years, from everyday models to more expressive high complication and even jewellery pieces. How would you describe the brand’s strategic direction today, and what are the key priorities guiding its next phase of growth? 

A. We are now placing great emphasis on developing and promoting “iconic” models that will define Grand Seiko’s identity for generations to come, particularly within our flagship Evolution 9 Collection. These models are becoming firmly established as symbols of the brand, allowing us to consolidate our line-up in a way that resonates with a broad range of watch enthusiasts, while continuously evolving them by incorporating our latest movements at the forefront of watchmaking. For example, just last month, we renewed the core models of the Evolution 9 Collection, including the iconic White Birch model, with the introduction of new versions featuring the latest micro-adjustment clasp, crafted in Ever-Brilliant Steel and High Intensity Titanium, and powered by our latest Spring Drive U.F.A. and mechanical High-Beat movements.

In parallel with this product consolidation and evolution, we are making our brand’s symbolic “faces” more clearly recognisable through our communications, including in-store presentations and digital platforms.

We are also working to expand brand awareness in key markets such as North America, including through initiatives like our global partnership with Major League Baseball player Shohei Ohtani, who is a superstar today in the US. Looking ahead to our next phase of growth, we will place greater focus on further clarifying and strengthening the brand’s key “faces” through continued refinement of our line-up and effective communication. By building on these efforts, we aim to reach beyond traditional watch enthusiasts and engage a wider global audience, while remaining true to our core values. 

Q. As Grand Seiko continues to grow globally, what do you think about the brand’s long-term legacy and what enduring impact would you like it to have on the world of luxury watchmaking? 

A. From the very beginning, Grand Seiko has inherited the way of watchmaking that continuously pursues excellence, and this commitment remains unchanged today. At the same time, we have consistently challenged ourselves to pursue new and unique innovations. One example is Kodo, the result of more than a decade of development. It features a proprietary movement in which a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism are integrated on a single axis for the first time in horological history. The model has been widely recognised around the world and received the Chronometry Prize at the 2022 GPHG.

By continuing to pursue watchmaking excellence, we aim to contribute to the advancement of the industry as a whole. We believe it is important for brands to inspire and elevate one another, and we hope to play a part in that. We also believe that diversity enriches the global watch industry. I hope that the unique cultural perspective that Grand Seiko brings, along with its spirit of embracing new challenges, offers new value and fresh experiences for watch enthusiasts around the world, especially those young and discerning consumers who place great value on individuality and authenticity.