Australia is on the verge of its first Michelin star, and it won't be in Sydney or Melbourne

Earlier this year a covert operation unfolded under staff and diners' noses in some of South Australia's finest restaurants.

Michelin Guide inspectors, anonymous, secretive, were dining at venues across the state — and the stakes were high.

Those restaurants were unwittingly competing for one of the highest honours in international cuisine — the Michelin Star.

If any reach those lofty heights, it'll be an Australian first.

It is something travel and food writer Ben Groundwater said puts local restaurants alongside the best in the world.

"You're not competing with people around the world, but it is a global benchmark. It is a way of holding yourself up against those legends."

Why do no Australian restaurants have a star?

The guide was developed by the Michelin brothers in the late 1800s, intended as a boost to their tyre business in France's nascent automotive industry.

It was originally designed as a driving guide, with maps and tips for drivers including places to eat and stay.

While the guide has been seen as a benchmark for diners in France and elsewhere in Europe for over a century, it only expanded to Asia and the Americas in the 2000s.

And many of those places have paid to lure inspectors to their regions.

In July, New Zealand became the first place in Oceania to get a Michelin Star, after reportedly paying $6.3 million over three years for the privilege.

Michelin has long been attempting to make a similar foray into the Australian market, first approaching Tourism Australia in 2016.

The national authority decided against it, but now South Australia has gone its own way, with the state government footing the bill.

The SA Government said the price it paid was confidential for commercial reasons, and had not revealed any ongoing costs from the deal, but Tourism Minister Emily Bourke said it was worth it.

"It's going to get people coming to South Australia, they're already coming here for our food and wine, but this really re-enforces that story that we stand amongst the best in the world."

What do the stars mean?

While some tourism authorities around the world have paid to get the guide to cover their regions, the Michelin inspectors decide which restaurants to sample.

It's a highly secretive process and the guide says inspectors look at the food only — the restaurant's decor, ambience and service are not factors.

Duncan Welgemoed was head chef at UK restaurant the Goose when it won a star, and has worked at other Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe.

He now owns Adelaide restaurant Africola and said the Michelin Guide would be a game changer for the local industry.

"Overnight your bookings will increase significantly. That's what I found in my experience," he said

"You know the gastronomic tourist is hugely important … particularly the Chinese market and the American market, they travel to Michelin stars. They plan their entire trips around visiting these restaurants."

The Michelin Guide has faced criticism in the past

While the Michelin Guide is widely seen as the pinnacle of restaurant reviews, it has not been without criticism, particularly as it has expanded into other parts of the world.

Professor of Hospitality and Tourism at Torrens University, Catheryn Khoo has looked at examples such as China.

"Michelin came from France and they would send experts from this culture," she said.

"So they would be assessing the way food was made and they were assessing it against their standards instead of more contemporary and international cultural standards."

Professor Khoo said while many chefs covet a Michelin star, there have been cases where some have rejected it.

"Some chefs have returned the stars because they no longer want to be involved because of how much, I don't want to use the word toxic, but it can be very unhealthy for the culture of the restaurants and the teams that are in the restaurants," she said.

Professor Khoo said as South Australian chefs get ready to hear if they have made the guide, they should keep their focus on what they do best.

"Be mindful of this space, now that it's going to be ramping up. To hold their ground, to hold their peace and do what they do best instead of focusing on the Michelin Guide," she said.

"It's sometimes easy to lose our sight on the things we love the most and why we came into the business in the first place."