Known for his work at some of Dubai’s most acclaimed restaurants, chef Gregoire Berger now has his sights on Abu Dhabi.
Solenn, which opened in August at The Arcades at Al Khail Square and overlooks Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club, is Berger's first restaurant in the capital.
A departure from the fine dining for which he is known, the relaxed Mediterranean eatery is built around the idea of long lunches, quality produce and a slower pace.
First impressions
The Arcades at Al Khail Square is busy on a Friday evening, with people strolling along its corridors and between cafes, but Solenn is surprisingly quiet when we arrive, leaving us free to choose a table.
Inside, colourful sofas and chairs, terracotta walls and pale pink tables give the space a warm and relaxed feel, like sitting in a cosy living room. Tall arched windows overlook the equestrian area, making the window seats a good spot to watch the activity outside over a meal.
Chef Gregoire previously described his vision for Solenn as a “beautiful springtime in the South of France, there's great music outside and an amazing fragrance of lemon trees, and you just chill over a long lunch”. The inviting surroundings make it easy to settle in.
The menu
The extensive menu offers plenty of choice, from breakfast dishes such as eggs, sandwiches and baked-to-order filo, to bowls, bakery items and manakish. My dining partner and I are here for dinner, so we turn our attention to the mains, although with so many options it makes deciding what to order a bit daunting.
We are persuaded to try the Solenn Passion (Dh39) and Blanc Lychee (Dh38), two mocktails that we find quite refreshing, especially after coming in from the heat.
Our meal starts with the burrata “Puglia” illusion (Dh95), a dish that is recommended by Gregoire himself. Adapted from one of his signature creations, it features a delicate tomato shell created from white chocolate and cocoa butter filled with a tomato salad and locally made burrata. It’s creamy, with the shell of the tomato offering a touch of sweetness.
There is a long list of choices when it comes to mains to try. After some time, we decided on the marrow melt Wagyu burger (Dh160), whole sea bass (Dh220), truffle Wagyu lasagne (Dh85) and, after some persistence from our server, the Solenn baby chicken (Dh135).
We’re told the lasagne regularly sells out, and we can see why. Generously portioned and full of flavour, it quickly becomes a favourite at the table, setting a high bar for the other mains.
The sea bass is another highlight. Although I am not the biggest fan of seafood, I’m impressed by its tenderness and colourful presentation. It comes on a plate with two sauces – miso beurre blanc and curry – offering different flavours to accompany the fish.
Unfortunately, the Wagyu burger is less successful. Neither of us feels it justifies the Dh160 price tag. The patty is small and with fries on the side it feels like an item that doesn’t really fit with the rest of the menu. However, the baby chicken fares better, although by the time we turn to it, we’re already rather full.
We finish with two desserts. The caramel millefeuille (Dh55) combines baklava with crunchy vanilla pastry and cinnamon cream caramel, served with vanilla ice cream.
The noisette velours (Dh65) is a more chocolate-heavy option, pairing sponge with mousses and hazelnut crunch for texture. It comes with vanilla ice cream and a milk chocolate spray finish.
By this point, we’re already full, so the manageable portions are welcome. The millefeuille is the less sweet of the two, while the noisette velours will hit the spot for anyone craving a sugary finish.
Standout dish
For us, the truffle Wagyu lasagne royale is the standout, with distinct layers that allow each component to come through. The rich flavour of the Wagyu beef also comes through clearly in each bite. Big enough to share, it also offers better value than some of the pricier mains.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Solenn can cost between Dh178 and Dh547. At the high-end of the price spectrum are the beef carpaccio “truffle vinaigrette” (Dh120), solo meuniere “Turkish Riveira” (Dh355) and luxe mango (Dh72).
Meanwhile, those who would like to save can order the black lime hummus (Dh48), crispy chicken burger (Dh75) and caramel millefeuille (Dh55).
The verdict
Solenn is an easy place to settle in for an unhurried meal with friends or family, with its comfortable seating and views of the equestrian area adding to the appeal.
The extensive menu could benefit from a tighter focus, and some dishes offer better value than others, but the Wagyu lasagne and sea bass give us reasons to return.
Contact information
Solenn is located at The Arcades in Al Khail Square at the Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club. It’s open Monday to Thursday, 8am to 10pm and Friday to Sunday, 8am to midnight. Reservations can be made by calling 54 328 9899.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant