These ‘microneedle creams’ give mature skin an instant glow – from £18

You’ve heard of microneedling, where tiny needles are rolled over the skin to stimulate collagen and smooth skin texture. But what about the ‘liquid microneedling’ version, which offers glow-boosting benefits without the pin-prick discomfort?

That’s the concept behind products and treatments using microspicules – an ingredient that’s wildly popular in Korean beauty for its ‘glass skin’ effect. Now it’s taking over beauty counters and clinics in the UK, too, and, while it may sound like a passing Gen Z fad, it’s something that experts say really deserves its place in a mature skincare regime.

If you like the sound of radiant, smoother, younger-looking skin without the irritation or possible downtime of a needle on your face, read on.

First, what are microspicules?

Microspicules are tiny microscopic, needle-shaped structures derived from highly purified sea sponge, explains aesthetic specialist and K-beauty expert Dr Christine Hall. ‘They’re essentially silica-based sponge fragments. These needles are impregnated with, or bonded to, an active ingredient. Popular ingredients to bind to include peptides, cica or centella, ginseng and PDRN.’

What are their benefits?

When pressed into the skin, the microspicules significantly increase how much bonded ingredient gets absorbed, says Dr Hall. ‘As the ‘needles’ penetrate the outer layer of the skin, they create tiny micro-channels, which create a prickly or tingly sensation when applied. These channels are superficial, but they’re enough to not only enhance the absorption of active ingredients, they also exfoliate and, in some cases, have been shown to even stimulate collagen.’

Where will I find microspicules?

They’re new to the UK but rapidly becoming a popular option in clinic treatments. A-list facialist Jillian Blair is seeing a surge in women booking liquid microneedling as a more convenient alternative to traditional microneedling. ‘Lack of downtime is the biggest one,’ says Jillian, who offers Cellstory Liquid Microneedling at her London salon. ‘Women want visible results without booking three days off their calendar or walking out with bleeding and redness.’

Needlephobia is another factor that puts some people off but whatever the reason for skipping the face roller, Jillian says her ‘liquid’ clients have one thing in common. ‘They’re not willing to compromise on results. They’re not looking for a watered-down version of a treatment just to avoid needles; they still want to see real, visible change in their skin. They just don’t want to trade a week of their life or deal with the fear of something invasive.’

How is it different to microneedling?

Traditional microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries that trigger the skin’s wound-healing response,’ says Jillian. ‘That’s genuinely effective for deeper concerns such as established acne scarring.’

Liquid microneedling works differently. 'Spicules drive deep into the skin, down to the base of the epidermis, for deeper ingredient delivery. The skin naturally exfoliates them off within about 72 hours as it regenerates from the bottom up.’

The benefits keep growing, and glowing. ‘Clients see brightness and smoother texture almost right away, and then continue to see improvement over the following days as collagen production increases.’

She adds: ‘It’s not a replacement for traditional microneedling if you’re targeting more significant concerns like established scarring or stretch marks. But for tone, texture, acne and fine lines, it delivers noticeably more than a standard facial or peel.’

Is this clinic-only?

Absolutely not. Microspicule skincare is a huge trend, and something that’s very accessible on the high street. Plus, it’s not ‘Botox in a bottle’ marketing hype: the comparison is real.

‘Unlike many trend-led terms, the mechanism genuinely mirrors the idea of traditional microneedling, just at a much lower intensity, with the spicules suspended in a serum or cream,’ says Dr Hall. ‘Lower concentration spicules are available over the counter and on the high street, whereas those at higher concentrations are clinic-led treatments.’

Is microspicule skincare good for mature skin?

Yes, it especially benefits skin as we move through our 40s and 50s, says Dr Hall. ‘Skin renews more slowly and collagen declines, so it looks duller, texture is less even and fine lines show more,’ she adds. ‘Micro-spicules help on several fronts. Their needle-like structure gives a mild mechanical exfoliation, dislodging dull, dead cells to improve texture and radiance.’

Secondly, you’re creating a micro-injury as you rub it into skin, even though it only feels like a minor prickle. ‘Any time you create a small amount of trauma in the skin, you trigger a repair response and with that comes some collagen stimulation,’ she says. However it’s only modest, ‘so see it as a supportive effect rather than something that is going to work alone.’

And microspicules are perfectly placed to boost the rest of your regime. ‘Because they enhance the penetration of the ingredients alongside them, they make anything you apply on top work harder.’

What are good microspicule skincare buys?

These are some of the best formulas to shop, says Dr Hall

Dr Melaxin Cemenrete Cyano Pink Spicule Serum: This is a really accessible way to try the technology. For the neck, there’s Necklinephalt Neck Cream, because the neck is so often forgotten and the metal tip makes it feel like a treatment.

Erborian Ginseng Micro Shot: Also a good starter as it’s available as a 0.1 % beginner strength, moving up to a 0.3% strength

VT Reedle Shot: the product that went viral in South Korea a couple of years ago and one of the first to enter the UK market. It’s paired with different ingredients but the centella range was the original and most popular.

Yepoda The Skinject Effect Essence: an interesting one as it uses kimchi-derived ingredients and is a suitable choice for vegans.

How can I use microspicule skincare in my regime?

According to Dr Hall, spicule products should go on early in the routine. ‘Use them immediately after cleansing, on dry skin and typically at night, so they create their micro-channels before other products are applied.’

Massage a few pumps of a serum such as Dr.Melaxin’s Cyano Pink Spicule Serum for example, and pat until absorbed. ‘A slight tingle is normal. Then follow with hydrating or calming ingredients, such as cica, humectants or peptides, to take advantage of the enhanced absorption. I like sweeping Dr. Melaxin’s Cemenrete Calcium Multi Balm over the top and you can pick it up in Boots.’

Bottom line: why should I choose microspicules?

For Jillian, liquid microneedling is a perfect demonstration of what women want now from a clinic session. ‘I think what we’re seeing is redefining what ‘doing a treatment’ means. It used to mean trauma – the more visible, the more invasive, the more it worked. Now it means results, however you get there.’ Spicules means no pain, all gain.

And as for the skincare part? That ticks many boxes for mature skin, says Dr Hall. ‘Visibly, you can expect smoother, more radiant, more luminous skin, with help for pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. That’s why I like formulas that pair spicules with proven ingredients. You just need to pair your specific skin concern with the right one.’