“Whatever you do, don’t say ‘Slay-th-waite’,” a Yorkshire friend warns me. “It’s pronounced ‘Sla-wit’.” This is the first of many surprises about the West Yorkshire village, which gives bohemian Hebden Bridge – just 24 kilometres to the north – a run for its money.
Slaithwaite exudes the same independent energy as the bustling market town, but feels rather more laid-back as I stroll along its parade of Art Deco shops. The sun beams down as I pass the hulking Globe Mills, built in 1887, and customers spill on to the pavement outside cheery cafés.
Located by the River Colne and the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, the former textile mill village has strong music traditions, an artistic community and a set of quirky local events, including an annual duck race and a biennial Moonraking Festival involving a lantern parade, theatre and music events.
While the town has grown in popularity in recent years, with about 1.6 million visitors throughout the summer, it maintains a village feel, where nothing is rushed.
Resident Aidan Nolan, owner of A.N.D. Studio, which specialises in branding and design, says the area has blossomed over the past few years. “The village caters to such a wide variety of people now,” he explains. “New places seem to be opening all the time, adding to that mix and making it a destination for people to visit.”
As I tuck into a chicken parmo (breaded chicken, topped with béchamel sauce and cheddar cheese) from one of the weekly food trucks in the garden of Zapato brewery and watch families and friends of all ages enjoy the space together, it is easy to see why this little corner of West Yorkshire is having its moment in the sun.
The essentials: how to get there and where to stay
Nearest station: Slaithwaite is served by the TransPennine Express on the Transpennine route between Leeds (30 minutes), Huddersfield (six minutes) and Manchester Victoria (34 minutes). Reaching the station involves crossing an impressive Grade II listed viaduct, with 15 stone arches.
Buses: The 184 and 383 buses from Huddersfield (20 minutes) and Marsden (10 minutes) stop in the town.
Stay: With views across the hills and a handful of friendly goats as neighbours, The Monks Cottage at Hill Farm is a cosy retreat. Built in the 17th century, the recently renovated open-plan apartment has exposed wooden beams, a roomy en suite and thoughtful touches such as fresh eggs, local honey and handmade soap. From £117, sleeps two, dog-friendly.
Alternatively, Briar Court Hotel in nearby Huddersfield offers accessible rooms, as well as a lounge, bar and pizzeria. Doubles from £83.
The best places to shop
Cool down with an iced latte at Scandinavian-inspired Curated by Anna, on Manchester Road. Head to Britannia Road to rummage for treasure in The Antiques Warehouse, browse for your latest read at A New Leaf bookshop and support local artisans at The Gallery. Stock up on supplies at the community-owned Green Valley Grocer, which has been trading in Carr Lane for 100 years.
The best place for lunch
Grab a Greek salad or burrito with three bean chilli and enjoy the music at towpath café Northern Sole Kitchen & Common Room. It also hosts live music sessions and quiz nights.
The best things to see and do
Start the day at iglu sauna with a salt scrub and mud mask sweat session, followed by a bracing cold plunge, all in peaceful woodland surrounds a few minutes’ stroll from the centre of Slaithwaite. Take a leisurely half-hour walk along the canal to the Zapato brewery, stopping to watch the narrowboats negotiate the locks, before enjoying a pint of Zapatapale, available in differently hopped versions. Check out Globe Arts for details of forthcoming exhibitions and workshops or discover what life was like in the 1840s at Colne Valley Museum, whose four cottages were once home to handloom weavers.
The best place for a drink
The Little Bridge has a unique location between the River Colne and the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, plus a great selection of wine and gins. For a choice of 12 beers on tap, visit Hideaway Craft House.
Two places for a great dinner
Set within a former bank, Rumpus sells artisan burgers from cattle reared at its Slaithwaite farm using regenerative grass-based farming. Toppings include Tex Mex and hot honey.
For Mediterranean cuisine, Sage offers small plates such as salt-baked beetroot and whipped goat’s cheese, and big plates including herb-crusted halibut.
The best autumn walks
Hikers looking for a challenge can begin the 21-kilometre (13-mile) Colne Valley circular, which crosses moors and passes mills and the canal. For a more relaxed 4.8-kilometre walk, follow the towpath to Marsden. Add another 1.6 kilometres to reach Standedge Tunnel, Britain’s longest, deepest and highest canal tunnel.