12 best restaurants in Hong Kong: I've been eating here for nearly two decades, here's where to go

I've lived in Hong Kong and eaten in Hong Kong restaurants for more than 20 years and written about it for most of that time. Along the way, I started some farmers’ markets (no small thing in a city that imports over 95 per cent of its food) and have eaten enough char siu to fill a red taxi. Even so, I hesitate when friends ask where to eat. Partly, it’s the sheer number of restaurants: there are more than 17,000 for just 7.5 million people, and since most of our kitchens are the size of a wardrobe, eating out is how the city feeds itself – in this town, everyone’s an expert.

A six-stool wonton noodle shop is as representative of Hong Kong as a tasting menu that would hold its own in New York or Paris. Having said that, Cantonese cooking is still the backbone and main reason to eat here: restrained, skilful and ingredient-led, judged on whether the fish was swimming an hour ago and the wok was the right level of scorching. But this was a port city long before it was a financial one, and has always made room for whoever and whatever came ashore, from Indian spices to French technique.

The restaurants below are the ones I return to and would happily send a first-time visitor. Some need to be booked when you book your plane ticket; others might require you to queue or take a trip to Kowloon – both are usually a good sign.

The best Hong Kong restaurants to discover now

London Restaurant

In Mong Kok, the heart of Kowloon, London Restaurant delivers the quintessential dim sum experience – rickety carts weaving between tables in vast dining rooms across three levels. This heirloom banquet hall feels as alive as ever, fuelled by the chatter of families, the shattering of spring roll wrappers and the billowing steam of freshly steamed buns. It was once fashionable to name grand Chinese restaurants after global capitals (the now-shuttered Washington Restaurant was another), but few have managed to endure. Come for the nostalgia, stay for the har gow (shrimp dumplings).

Address: Good Hope Building, 612 Nathan Road, Mong Kok

VEA

Trained with the likes of Daniel Boulud, homegrown chef Vicky Cheng was among the first to combine French luxury with their Chinese counterparts to brilliant effect – think caviar, dried abalone and durian all in one tasting menu – with that spirit of classical French precision meeting cultural exploration running through every dish. With a sleek open kitchen, it’s one of the city’s most iconic fine-dining experiences, rooted in the local yet globally aware, like Hong Kong itself. For Cheng’s take on modern Chinese cuisine, Wing downstairs also promises an exceptional experience.

Address: 30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central
Website: vea.hk

Yong Fu

While Hong Kong is mostly about Cantonese food, Yong Fu offers a rare treat from Ningbo, Eastern China – delicate, seafood-driven and intensely seasonal. Rarely outside of the Mainland will you find this sort of food presented at this level: expect meticulous sourcing, from mud crab, marinated and served raw, to river eels and freshwater fish, nuts and greens only known in that region, all prepared with understated precision. This is an elegant detour from the usual fare, and a delectable reminder of the diverse culinary traditions of the country at large.

Address: Shop 2, G/F & 1/F, Golden Star Building, 20-22 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai
Website: yongfuhk.com

The Chairman

Deceptively simple, unshowy, yet profound, The Chairman is perhaps the very definition of modern Cantonese cuisine. Founder Danny Yip honours tradition while quietly reshaping it – coaxing depth from local clams, flower crab, pigeon and the like. His respect for provenance and seasonality has influenced an entire generation of chefs. The Chairman rewards those who plan ahead – reservations are notoriously hard to secure.

Address: 3/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central
Website: thechairmangroup.com

Big JJ Seafood Hotpot Restaurant

“Noisy, rude, overrated” states Big JJ’s website – and it’s that swagger that epitomises this raucous hotpot joint’s appeal. Having gained cult status during its original cramped, side-alley incarnation, it recently relocated to more spacious digs in the swanky Prince’s Building – yet its combination of retro dai pai dong (street hawker) vibes with top-drawer ingredients (including locally slaughtered beef and catch-of-the-day seafood), a savvy wine list and up-for-it service, remains as irresistible as ever. Book in advance or expect long lines, whether you’re coming for a hearty rice or noodle dish at lunch, or a full-on Cantopop-soundtracked hotpot feast for dinner.

Address: Basement, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central
Website: bigjjseafood.com

Basehall

In the basement of Jardine House in Central, the city’s CBD, Basehall is home to some of Hong Kong’s best independent and Michelin-recommended names under one sleek roof. It’s a contemporary food hall with polish: air-conditioned comfort, stylish communal tables and everything from Michelin Bib Gourmand Shandong dumpling joint Ah Chun, to sizzling dai pai dong-inspired dishes at Ying Hung Palace, to Cantonese barbecue hotshots Kamcentre, it’s perfect for sampling the city’s huge range without criss-crossing town. There’s even Artifact, a hidden speakeasy, should you want a classy end to the night.

Address: LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central
Website: basehall.hk

Duddell’s

Duddell’s merges art, design and gastronomy in a way few restaurants do. With classy interiors by star designer André Fu, this bi-level space is filled with rotating contemporary art, a nod to its art world founders. The menu, helmed by celebrated chef Chan Yau-leung, is just as remarkable – elegant, precise and subtly innovative. Especially when the weather gods are amicable, the well-heeled make a beeline for weekend dim sum brunch on the terrace with free-flow tea, cocktails or Champagne.

Address: 3/F, 1 Duddell Street, Central
Website: duddells.co

Neighborhood

Neighborhood, by Hongkonger David Lai, is an unpretentious spot down a back alley that consistently draws a knowing crowd. Trained in French cuisine, Lai’s philosophy is boundary-agnostic, sourcing impeccable ingredients anywhere from the local wet market to the best farms in Europe. His concise, ever-changing menu is a direct reflection of what is best at the moment, making his discreet restaurant a steadfast favourite among chefs and locals – despite it being Michelin-starred, it still feels like an insider’s secret.

Address: 61 Hollywood Road, Central (entrance on Man Hing Lane)

Cheong Gor Cantonese Cuisine

“Wok hei” – the distinctive smoky flavour imparted from the “breath of the wok” – is a much-coveted concept in Cantonese cuisine, and it’s found in abundance in Cheong Gor’s greatest hits. Meats, seafood, vegetables, rice and noodles are wok-fried to perfection; fresh, light, crisp and addictive enough to have you fighting over who gets the last bite. Hearty, homey and oh-so-satisfying; since most of us don’t have Chinese grannies effortlessly dishing up these classics at home, this is the next best thing.

Address: Room 208, 2/F, Yip Fung Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central

Australia Dairy Company

A rite of passage for visitors and locals alike, who still jostle for a spot at the fast-turning tables at this iconic cha chaan teng (think East-meets-West version of a caff). Come for Hong Kong’s most famous scrambled eggs, silky steamed milk pudding and local-style milk tea, served with a lot of tough love and no frills. Go early in the morning for a less frantic experience reminiscent of the Hong Kong of yore.

Address: 47 Parkes Street, Jordan

Mono

For a truly one-of-a-kind tasting experience, look no further than Mono. Venezuelan chef-owner Ricardo Chaneton cut his teeth at culinary blockbuster Mirazur and has hit his groove here – a highly personal, totally singular distillation of his Latin-American heritage and European training. With ever-changing seasonal tasting menus, creativity is king and no effort is too great – including elements like house-made cheese, pod-to-bar chocolate and a 20-ingredient mole. Book a kitchen counter seat to watch the magic up close.

Address: 5/F, On Lan Street, Central
Website: mono.hk

Leela

Indian fine dining might not be your first thought for what to eat during a trip to Hong Kong – but miss out on Leela at your peril. Chef Manav Tuli’s first solo venture following stints at award-winning restaurants in India and London, Leela offers a rich tapestry of diverse regional Indian dishes, cherry-picking inspiration from street snacks to royal recipes alike – plus a “Flavours of Hong Kong” section showcasing the influence that Tuli’s current home has had on his cooking. His take on ham sui gok, a traditional deep-fried dim sum dumpling, is a cross-cultural slam dunk.

Address: Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay
Website: leela.hk