T2 Tea Cafe of the Year: Cham

Run by couple Tony Nguyen and Christa Chan-Nguyen, this serene cafe takes notes from both Vietnamese and Aussie breakfast culture. Christa runs front-of-house, although, like Tony, she’s also a trained chef. He brings experience from Aru, Supernormal and Firebird to craft dishes that remind him of his upbringing.

Staff glide around with warmth and smiles, adding to the calm that comes from well-spaced tables, white-washed walls and a gorgeous installation of indigo-dyed fabric that resembles rolling waves when a breeze wafts through. Furniture, lamps and ceramics are sourced from Vietnam, some fabricated using centuries-old traditions, others based on cutting-edge contemporary design.

For banh mi chao – “bread with pan” – house-made pork meatballs, chicken liver pâté and an egg mingle in a skillet bubbling with tangy tomato sauce; a crusty baguette attends to mopping-up duties. Think of it as a big breakfast. At lunch, broken rice is laced with chicken fat and topped with sliced confit duck fanned out like an accordion. Chicken pho simmers for around 13 hours, the broth so rich it’s nearly viscous.

Personality permeates the drinks menu without compromising quality. Iced jasmine matcha is unimpeachable, jasmine tea and pineapple foam are surprisingly delicious partners, and Vietnamese coffee is made with beans from a specialty roaster in Vietnam, Every Half.

A Venn diagram of nerdiness and warmth, precision and enjoyment, Vietnam and Australia, Cham gracefully encapsulates the best of Melbourne cafe culture right now.