October the 25th, 2026 – A merchant surviving a shipwreck and then building a church in gratitude that Croatia officially chose to protect almost 1,000 years later is the story behind a construction on an island few know about.
It’s believed that the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian (Crvka sv. Kuzme i Damjana) on the island of Ugljan dates from the 11th or 12th century. It is located in a peaceful cove, right by the sea, not far from the hamlet of Guduće. Olive groves, dense pine forests, beautiful coves, old fishing villages, crystal-clear sea and views of the Zadar archipelago are what await visitors to Ugljan.
As Ivana Vasarevic writes for Putni Kofer, it’s widely known as one of Croatia’s greenest islands, which also carries the flattering nickname “the garden of Zadar.” It’s just 22 kilometres long, has a little over 5,600 inhabitants, is separated from the mainland by the Zadar Channel, and is connected to the neighbouring island of Pašman by a bridge across the Ždrelac passage. Among Ugljan’s main attractions is the fortress of St. Michael above Preko; nearby is also the islet of Galevac, known for its Franciscan monastery, while in Muline you can visit the remains of an ancient oil mill where the Liburnian olive oil was once produced.
TODAY IT IS CONSIDERED THE OLDEST PRESERVED CHURCH IN THE SETTLEMENT OF UGLJAN
The island’s special charm comes from its small stone churches. One of them was recently declared a cultural asset by the Ministry of Culture and Media of the Republic of Croatia. It is the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, located in Ljokine Cove, not far from the hamlet of Guduće, on the southwestern side of the island. This modest stone building stands right on the shore and is the oldest preserved church in the settlement of Ugljan: it is believed to date from the 11th or 12th century.
Besides its exceptional historical value, the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian is also interesting because of the unusual legend that has accompanied it for centuries. According to the story, a merchant and sailor named Toricella was shipwrecked in the waters around Ugljan. He managed to save himself and swim to the shore in Ljokine Cove, and on that spot he decided to build a votive church. He dedicated it to Saints Cosmas and Damian, early Christian martyrs and physicians, in gratitude for his rescue.
THE ROOF OF THE SIMPLE LITTLE CHURCH WAS COVERED WITH BROKEN STONE SLABS
Although the shipwreck story cannot be historically confirmed, the name Toricella also appears in old documents. The little church is first mentioned on 6 August 1512 in the will of F. Toricella from Bergamo in Italy. In it he stipulated that a piece of land should be given for use to the priest who celebrates a sung Mass in the little church on the feast of Saints Cosmas and Damian. According to the interpretation of don Marko Dokoza, a priest who for years led tours of Ugljan’s little churches as part of Open Doors Days, Toricella was only later identified with the seafarer from the shipwreck legend.
The original church was a very simple, square stone building, 4.8 metres long and 2.8 metres wide. Its walls were about 80 centimetres thick, and at the rear it had a lowered semicircular apse. The roof was covered with broken stone slabs, and there were two small windows in the side walls. The interior had a half-barrel vault, while the simple architectural details reflected the modesty and age of the building.
PAINTINGS DEPICTING SAINTS COSMAS AND DAMIAN AND THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY WITH THE CHILD
At the beginning of the 20th century the little church was significantly enlarged. A new nave, ten metres long and 3.8 metres wide, intended for gatherings of the faithful, was added to its front part. Today its interior contains an altar, pews and paintings depicting Saints Cosmas and Damian as well as the Blessed Virgin Mary with the Child. On the façade a small round window stands out, and above it a stone bell-gable with a bell made in the workshop of Jakov Cukrov in Split.
Saints Cosmas and Damian, to whom the church is dedicated, were twin brothers and physicians who helped the sick free of charge. Their feast day is celebrated on the 26th of September. For centuries that date held special significance for the inhabitants of Ugljan: according to records in the parish chronicle, numerous pilgrims from all the settlements on the island, as well as from the neighbouring areas, used to come to the little church on that day.
IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF GUDUĆE YOU CAN ALSO SEE A UNIQUE MOSAIC BENCH
The tradition, of course, lives on today. Mass is still celebrated in the little church, during which blessings are invoked upon Ugljan sailors and ships all over the world. Thus this small place of worship has remained connected with the sea and seafarers, just as in the legend of its origin. The Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian on the island of Ugljan is also interesting as an excursion destination.
It is located in a peaceful cove, and a gravel road through a pine forest leads to it. In the nearby hamlet of Guduće you can also see an unusual mosaic bench created back in 2019 by the retired Božica Kliman, known as Boška. On its front side is a depiction of the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian itself, along with a magical sunset, a squid and a lighthouse — colourful reminders of the islanders’ unbreakable connection with the sea and fishing.
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