Sea-Gull revisits its military heritage with six new 1963 chronographs

IT may be a small detail, but the red star gives the Sea-Gull 1963 Chronograph an identity unlike that of its Swiss counterparts. Positioned above six o’clock, below the two chronograph registers, it recalls the watch’s origins in a commission for the Chinese air force.

More than 60 years later, that military heritage remains central to its appeal, even as the latest models feature meteorite dials and vibrant shades of watermelon red and mint green.

Sea-Gull began life as the Tianjin Watch Factory, which produced the Wuxing (Five Stars) watch in 1955. Recognised as China’s first domestically made mechanical wristwatch, it marked an important milestone in the country’s fledgling watch industry.

The name Sea-Gull emerged in the early 1970s with the manufacture’s move into international markets. It went on to develop high complications, including tourbillons, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, while continuing to produce the everyday calibres that formed the backbone of its business.

Made for the skies

The Sea-Gull 1963 Chronograph traces its origins to 1961, when China’s Ministry of Light Industry commissioned the Tianjin Watch Factory to develop a chronograph for the Chinese air force. Codenamed Project 304, the undertaking was part of the country’s efforts to produce its own military equipment as it expanded its industrial capabilities.

To support the project, the factory acquired production machinery and technical drawings for the Swiss Venus 175, a hand-wound column-wheel chronograph movement. This provided the basis for the Chinese-made ST3 calibre, which would later evolve into Sea-Gull’s modern ST19 family.

By 1963, 32 sample watches had been completed. Following rigorous environmental, temperature and accuracy testing, the watch received production approval, and in 1966, 1,400 finished chronographs were delivered to Chinese air force units.

The ST19 has since earned a following among enthusiasts, extending Sea-Gull’s influence beyond its own collections.

Its movements have helped other watch brands offer mechanical timepieces at accessible prices. Britain’s Studio Underd0g, for example, used the ST19 family in its early colourful chronographs.

Part of Sea-Gull’s appeal lies in how a Swiss-designed movement found a lasting place in China’s watchmaking heritage.

The manufacture helped shape the country’s mechanical watch industry and made traditional chronographs more affordable, giving collectors a reason to explore a history beyond the established Swiss and Japanese traditions.

New faces for a classic

Sea-Gull’s six latest references reinterpret the 1963 Chronograph’s military heritage through different colours and materials, from classic cream dials and panda configurations to meteorite and vibrant gradients in contemporary hues. Despite their visual differences, all feature a 37.3 mm stainless steel case with a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock, running seconds at nine o’clock and water resistance to 50 m.

The 1963 Meteorite Chronograph Watch Limited Edition is a distinctive departure from the collection’s military-inspired styling. Its dark meteorite dial contrasts against two lighter meteorite sub-dials in a reverse-panda arrangement. The material’s intersecting patterns vary from watch to watch, so no two dials are identical. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide, it is paired with a black woven leather strap that adds texture.

For a more classic expression of the collection’s vintage aesthetic, the 1963 Polar Night Edition Panda Eye Chronograph Watch pairs an off-white dial with black counters in a traditional panda layout. Red and blue hands add pops of colour, while a gold-toned inner ring, indexes and sub-dial pointers bring warmth to the display. A brown leather strap completes the look.

The charm of the 1963 Polar Night Edition Vintage Chronograph lies in its subtle detailing. Matching cream tones across the dial and registers allow the red and blue central hands to stand out, while a gold-toned inner ring, indexes and sub-dial pointers add a touch of lustre. A black leather strap provides a crisp contrast to the watch’s lighter palette.

Playing with colours

Presenting a more colourful aesthetic are the 1963 Aurora Edition Chronographs, which draw inspiration from the shifting lights of the polar aurora.

Their finely grained dials graduate from a luminous centre to a darker outer edge, adding depth to the 1963’s signature twin-register layout. Silver-toned hands and applied hour markers give the design a cool, contemporary appearance.

The Deep Blue version recalls the Arctic night sky, its dial darkening from a lighter centre towards the perimeter, complemented by a grey cowhide strap. Radiant Pink transitions from pale pink-orange to watermelon red, with a khaki leather strap tempering the brighter tones. The Emerald Green reference pairs the same neutral-coloured strap with a dial that shifts from mint to apple green.

Driving all six timepieces is the hand-wound calibre ST1901, part of Sea-Gull’s renowned ST19 line of movements.

It retains the traditional column-wheel construction of its Swiss ancestor, with enhanced polishing and finishing highlighting the gears, levers and blued screws visible through the transparent caseback. The column wheel coordinates the chronograph’s functions, which contributes to a crisp, smooth action when the pushers are pressed. The movement delivers a 45-hour power reserve when the chronograph is inactive.

All but the meteorite edition come with quick-release straps that can be changed effortlessly without tools.

The varied colours and materials give the 1963 Chronograph a fresh expression while preserving its distinctive look. The red star remains a constant, linking these contemporary designs to their military origins.