East of Eden: How to recreate Cathy's epic period wardrobe at home

Once in a while, Netflix will drop a new series so intoxicating that it becomes the default point of conversation across all tables, be them dinner or desk. Zoe Kazan’s East of Eden appears to be the topic du jour, inspired by John Steinbeck’s 1952 family saga novel which the Nobel Prize winner considered his magnum opus. 

Starring Florence Pugh, the series has received critical acclaim across the board, with fans hailing the 7-part show as a stellar outdoing of the 1955 flick directed by Elia Kazan - Zoe Kazan's grandmother - when James Dean stepped into the role of tortured father Adam Trask.

Naturally, any show centred in the Victorian era is set to draw the attention of fashion enthusiasts. Conjured by New Zealand-born costume designer Kirsty Cameron, the show’s wardrobe is a feast for the eyes - steeped in historical references, period silhouettes and sumptuous fabrics. 

Oscillating between late 19th-century New England and early 20th-century California, Cameron and her 70-person team brought Steinbeck’s characters to life onscreen, drawing inspiration from the work of photographers including Edward Linley Sambourne, George Hendrik Breitner and Arnold Genthe to capture the spirit of pan-coastal America during the period. 

“I was really interested in some of the early street photographers too, like Edward Linley Sambourne and George Hendrik Breitner, as well as Alice Austen and Arnold Genthe,” the creative told Esquire when discussing her research process. “Then there were painters like Mary Cassatt, Pierre Bonnard, Berthe Morisot, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Edvard Munch, and photographers David Hamilton and Deborah Turbeville.”

The results were exquisite, with Cathy’s chameleonic costume reflecting her complex character arc throughout the show. Her early days in Connecticut and Salinas Valley are marked by innocent pastels, ditsy florals and muted feminine prints reflective of the golden California landscape. The protagonist’s attire soon darkens as she trades her claustrophobic rural life for the brothel, her femme fatale persona - now known as Kate - increasingly robed in gothic lace, moody palettes, heavy velvets and sculpting corseted structures.

Speaking to Netflix, Florence Pugh suggested the latter was the closest reflection of the character’s true identity. “She has a fear of people seeing her age and how she’s changing, because that’s been her currency that she has been able to use her entire life, her youth, her beauty and selling sex,” the actress notes, highlighting core parts of Kate’s costume, including an intricate lace veil that purposely conceals the face.

© Imaxtree

For those who revel in the Victoriana opulence of Cameron’s costume, look no further. This season has witnessed the re-emergence of whimsical, witchy style on the runways, with modest dress codes, high necklines and decadent layers of dark ruffled chiffon championed by brands such as Chloé, Ann Demeulemeester, Blumarine and Alberta Ferretti.

In short, it’s never been easier to channel East of Eden aesthetics - and just in time for spooky season at that. Recreate the show’s meticulously detailed and beautifully constructed wardrobe at home and shop our edit of Cathy-inspired pieces below. 

Best pieces inspired by Cathy's period costume:

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