Photos: Vogue Runway
Thousands of looks have gone down the runway over 440 fashion shows and presentations across fashion’s four capital cities during the Spring/Summer 2027 season — each made up of clothing and accessories for buyers to consider for the upcoming season.
Some of these items will never go into production. Others are surefire sellouts. Skirts reigned supreme, with buyers expecting to see an abundance of Prada midi and Dries Van Noten poster print skirts on the racks — and the sidewalks — come next summer. Anthony Vaccarello’s gilded farewell collection for Saint Laurent is also a highly anticipated eveningwear bestseller. And, continuing their hot streak, Celine and Chanel have buyers excited about next season’s ready-to-wear and accessory sales.
The SS27 shows also pointed to emerging trends for the year ahead. Maximalism made its comeback, as embellishments, graphic tees and structured bras dominated many of the buzziest offerings, pushing past seasons’ minimalist tilt to the wayside. Color emerged as one of the most important trends, says Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s SVP of the fashion office and store presentation, who also calls out the craftiness and romanticism of the season, joining her fellow buyers in spotlighting the abundance of lace and broderie anglais, from The Row to Chloé. Meanwhile, spanning New York to Milan, waists were cinched tighter, and shoes got even freakier, as consumers’ bodies and budgets continue to shrink.
Still, buyers are optimistic. This spring/summer season was clocked for its commerciality, as designers sought to offer a creative spin on clothes they felt confident would sell, a possible nod to luxury’s slow-going rebound. While the majority of buyers cited Paris as their favorite fashion week — home to the biggest brands, it’s also the most lucrative for many retailers — New York was a close second, with many calling out the city’s energy, optimism and newness.
“We leave the season and the four cities satisfied and confident that we have enough new trends, high-quality products, and exciting evolutions, as so many houses continue to successfully reinvent themselves,” Fargo says.
Below, fashion buyers share their top picks from this season’s shows.
Chloe King, women’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Saks: New York
Favorite shows: Jil Sander, Prada, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Rick Owens, Chanel, Simone Rocha, Proenza Schouler.
Favorite items: The graphic animalia coat at Proenza Schouler, the candy shop of embellishment on skirts, car coats and accessories at Dries Van Noten, the ballooning yellow dress at Jil Sander, the satin A-line and pleated skirts at Prada, the mismatched but masterful layering at Marni. Matthieu Blazy’s offering of 83 different shoes styles on the Chanel runway is a fashion fanatic’s dream. New soft structured bags at Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Gucci looked great.
Noted trends: Bra tops, lean capris, the omnipotent skirt, an infusion of color and emotional embellishment in accessories, a soft pliability in handbags — either in folded styles or drawstring pouches. Sheerness continues less as a means to titillate, but instead brings a sense of lightness to the season.
Bestsellers-to-be: Celine’s jazz shoe, the new frame clutch at Alaïa, and the instantly collectible gilded Saint Laurent collection.
Key takeaway: The season was a reminder that while we crave the escape and fantasy of glamour, it is also possible to ground that glamour in reality. That pragmatism was refreshing and impeccably executed at Dries Van Noten, Celine, Simone Rocha, and Loewe. A lightening up was another major theme of the season, with Chanel and Bottega Veneta proving innovation and craft does not need to feel overworked or unapproachable. As fashion’s purpose is to always reflect the times, it was exciting to see a cohort of more subversive brands capture a significant part of the fashion conversation with their transportive, table-shaking shows.
April Hennig, president of Moda Operandi: New York
Favorite shows: Conner Ives, Kallmeyer, Khaite, Ralph Lauren, Altuzarra, Saint Laurent, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Ferragamo.
Favorite items: Prada’s gem-embellished skirts, Conner Ives’s piano shawl dresses and sets, the embellished tops at Dries Van Noten.
Noted trends: Novelty graphics are clearly having a moment, between the slogan tees at Conner Ives, the New Yorker pieces at Carolina Herrera, and the custom poster prints at Dries Van Noten. Knee-length skirts (often paired with bra tops, like at Prada, Etro, Marni, Fendi and Des_Phemmes) are a key classification. A return to bold primary colors (monochrome from head to toe or blocked in unexpected combinations) was particularly evident in New York and Paris, while Milan leaned more toward pastels. An East-meets-West aesthetic has carried over from resort collections, while the embrace of lightweight lace and crochet at Chloé and The Row felt fresh.
In accessories, there’s a major focus on the waist, through belts and cummerbunds, while beading and fringe continue to enliven the novelty bag category. Overall, styling felt more undone and aligned with the way women dress in real life — less fussy, more grounded than past seasons.
Bestsellers-to-be: Trunkshows are giving us clear insights into next season’s must-haves. Kallmeyer’s grid-beaded jacket and skirt are runaway hits, with a record-breaking number of pre-orders. From New York, Ralph Lauren’s patterned silk jackets, Carolina Herrera’s New Yorker mini dress, Khaite’s ruffle trims, and Conner Ives’s plissé separates are also top performers. From Europe, Dries Van Noten’s poster prints are a definitive collector’s item, the skirts at Prada are zeitgeist-defining, and Saint Laurent’s gold pieces are instantly iconic. The striped pull-on pants at The Row and the embroidered cuff plaid shirts from Valentino are the perfect examples of the ‘elevated essentials’ our customer loves. In terms of accessories, Bottega Veneta’s slip-on flats and Gucci’s triple horsebit corset belts have It-item energy.
Key takeaway: Fashion is fun again. The mood is expressive, eclectic and maximalist.
Shelia and Renee, buying team at Maison Dongliang: Shanghai
Favorite shows: The Row, Dries Van Noten, Our Legacy, Khaite, Auralee.
Favorite items: The Row SS27 look 2, which is a relaxed cotton-linen dress layered over silk Bermuda shorts finished with Victorian-inspired lace trim; and Dries Van Noten SS27’s variety of lightweight parkas and gold-tone, vintage style floral jewelry.
Noted trends: Maximalism is emerging, but through a much more relaxed lens. Rich color, decoration, and texture are returning — lace, embroidery, sequins — but they are integrated into lightweight fabrics, softer colors, and relaxed silhouettes. Glamorous but casual.
Bestsellers-to-be: The Row’s minimalist tote with thin straps, refined knit tops, and straight-fit pants. The washed red four-pocket jacket at Our Legacy (like look 11). Dries Van Noten’s embroidered tops and gold-tone jewelry. The ultra-light, distressed vintage-style bomber at Enfants Riches Déprimés (like look 1).
Key takeaway: The season opened a new way of doing “glamour” — not through excess, but through precision and lightness. The Row’s antique lace cardigan over a relaxed camisole and drawstring pinstripe pants is a good example (look 24) — a simple base paired with an exquisite lace piece. Dries Van Noten’s embroidered men’s top in pale colors with flowing silk cargo pants (look 2), and Khaite’s single-breasted cinched shirt with a drawstring-back silk overlay and translucent embroidered skirt (look 2), point to the same idea — extreme material contrast, but handled with restraint.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer at Net-a-Porter: London
Favorite shows: Conner Ives, Magda Butrym, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Maison Margiela, Valentino.
Favorite items: The turquoise beaded shorts from Loewe, the orange can clutch from Saint Laurent and the floral pumps from Dries Van Noten, alongside the Commes des Garçons Girls Vans sneakers and the colorful, intricately beaded tops from The Row.
Noted trends: It really felt like the season of the skirt. Skirts were everywhere, particularly knee-length styles, which gave the silhouette a slightly sexier, more confident feel. Sea-inspired shades such as aqua blue and turquoise emerged as a recurring theme across all cities, creating an ethereal, mermaid-like mood. This was complemented by crochet, fringing, shells and pearls. Another trend that stood out was mixed and clashing prints, creating a more playful approach to styling.
Bestsellers-to-be: Dries Van Noten will have incredible success next season, and I can already see the poster print skirts becoming a bestseller. There’s also a pump with clashing prints from the collection that I think will be incredibly popular with our customers.
Isabelle Fine, women’s fashion director at Le Bon Marché: Paris
Favorite shows: Dries Van Noten offered a glamorous and cinematic inspiration; Celine, in a different vein, was an extremely desirable, free and elegant Parisian collection without falling into rigid perfection; Dior gave a sublime show defined by silk chiffon and a sense of lightness, even on the most structured pieces; Prada’s great fusion of both creators’ codes; at Sacai, Chitose Abe reconnects with her fundamentals — hybridization, layering — while infusing a more feminine and emotional dimension.
Favorite items: The knee-length skirt (brought back to the spotlight by Prada); lingerie-inspired pieces, such as bras and bandeau tops, with plenty of transparency and lightness across ultra-light tops, dresses, and tailoring; the lace and crochet (notably at The Row); the statement belt, tied to the strong focus on cinched waists.
Noted trends: The affirmation of a visible femininity centered on texture and construction. A focus on craft: crochet, lace, fringe, embroidery, beads, and tactile surfaces. Transparency, lightness, and layering. Ruffles and gathering served femininity. The return of the buckle and the cinched waist.
Bestsellers-to-be: The knee-length skirt; the bomber jacket or the lightweight jacket; the fluid dress with subtle transparency; the lingerie top; the soft bag.
Key takeaway: The grand return of a free and airy femininity. Collections are regaining desirability and personality.
Julie Leymarie, co-founder of Le Mill: Mumbai
Favorite shows: Zimmermann was my favorite collection this season. I love women designing for women, and there was a real understanding of how women want to dress; Alaïa stayed true to what makes the house distinctive — the body, proportion and the way fabric shapes a silhouette; Chloé felt very true to the house, but there were enough unexpected details to make the collection feel fresh.
Favorite items: At Alaïa, the bra top was one of the details that stood out, and for Le Mill, the separates are the more interesting takeaway. Strong skirts and sculptural tops offer a way to bring Alaïa’s approach to proportion into a wardrobe without needing to buy into a complete look. Chloé’s lace and broderie anglaise pieces felt distinctly Chloé, while the rainwear brought something more unexpected. Jacquemus’s Tutti Frutti bags were among my favorite accessories.
Noted trends: Statement skirts appeared in so many different forms this season, from fluid and lightweight to voluminous, sheer and heavily embellished; what made them interesting was the way they were styled. There were bras, corset details, slip dresses and sheer layers across several collections — the most interesting interpretations weren’t necessarily the most revealing. Lightweight construction and sheer layers; a lot of designers were working with lighter fabrics and less restrictive construction. Peplums and defined waists appeared across collections, offering a way to create shape without making everything fitted.
Bestsellers-to-be: In Mumbai, fabric and construction matter as much as appearance. Pieces that feel special but are still comfortable and easy to wear are likely to have more longevity in a customer’s wardrobe. A statement skirt, an interesting blouse or a distinctive bag can add something to what a customer already owns, and often feels like a more useful purchase than a complete runway look.
Key takeaway: With so much change happening within the houses themselves, I think it will be interesting to see the collections that maintain their identity over the next few seasons. For now, the most exciting buying opportunities are the pieces that feel distinctly of their designer, have something unexpected about them, and still make sense for the way my customer wants to dress.
Marco Raccuia, head of buying at Rinascente: Milan
Favorite shows: Prada was one of the season’s most stimulating collections from a product perspective; the skirt became a canvas for experimenting with proportion, materials, and styling. Dior, under Jonathan Anderson, continues to build a distinctive universe of lightness, decorative details, and unexpected silhouettes; I was particularly interested in the way creativity and accessories interact. Saint Laurent reaffirmed the power of a highly recognizable vision. Michael Rider’s Celine appeals to me for its approach to the contemporary wardrobe. Givenchy, under Sarah Burton, deserves attention for its balance of precise tailoring, femininity, and product relevance.
Favorite items: Skirts, first and foremost, for the range of interpretations seen at Prada and their potential to refresh the wardrobe. Then, bags with recognizable shapes but not necessarily overt logos, shoes that can change the attitude of an outfit, and decorative accessories. I was also drawn to relaxed tailoring, fluid shirts, and lightweight layering pieces.
Noted trends: The first is the renewed importance of the skirt. The second is lightness, not only in fabrics but also in the approach to dressing: less rigidity, more freedom to combine. I also see a renewed interest in shoes and accessories as tools for building personal identity. Finally, there is an interesting tension between precise tailoring and more spontaneous, decorative, or sensual elements.
Bestsellers-to-be: I would watch skirts, distinctive footwear, bags with a strong silhouette, and accessories that can transform an outfit without requiring an entirely new wardrobe. Fluid shirts, lightweight jackets, and versatile tailoring also have interesting potential. From a buying perspective, a bestseller is not necessarily the most spectacular piece on the runway. It is the one that combines identity, desirability, and the ability to fit naturally into real life.
Key takeaway: SS27 is a season in which personality takes center stage again. The most interesting collections are not simply trying to impose an aesthetic; they offer different ways to interpret personal style. From a commercial perspective, the challenge is to create products that are recognizable without being predictable, desirable without feeling unattainable, and contemporary without becoming disposable.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa: Munich
Favorite shows: Prada, Saint Laurent, The Row, Celine, Dries Van Noten, Khaite, Dior, Simone Rocha.
Favorite items: The skirt emerged as one of the most compelling pieces of the season, with Prada delivering a masterclass in how to reinterpret this wardrobe staple with freshness, ease and modernity. Bustiers and bra tops, particularly at Chloé, offered a confident, sensual take on femininity, alongside romantic dresses and elevated separates. The Row invited us into a world of travel and collected treasures, pairing impeccably cut pants with flowing white tops, antique lace, crochet, fringed textiles and layered beaded necklaces.
Noted trends: Romantic femininity was a defining thread, but with a more confident and less conventional expression. Lace, sheer fabrics, lingerie-inspired dressing, vintage florals and peplums were offset by voluminous proportions, unexpected layering and a richer interplay of color and texture. More broadly, the season moved away from formulaic dressing toward a more individual, instinctive approach to style, where contrasting references and personal expression take precedence over a single aesthetic.
Bestsellers-to-be: We see strong potential in skirts, particularly styles that offer distinctive proportions, considered detailing and multiple possibilities for styling. Bustiers, romantic tops, dresses and elevated separates should also resonate, alongside occasionwear that brings a fresh perspective to glamour through texture, movement and color.
Key takeaway: SS27 feels like a season in which fashion is reconnecting with the emotion of getting dressed. The most successful collections did more than present beautiful clothes; they offered a perspective, a feeling and a world that customers could imagine themselves inhabiting.
Bella Kelly, womenswear and accessories buyer at Liberty: London
Favorite shows: Saint Laurent was a standout for me. I loved how those ideas were brought into some of the trends we’re seeing in the market; utility, midi skirts, maximalism, lace and jacquards, but expressed in such a bold and distinct way. Dries Van Noten also really stood out. The printed silks and satins felt particularly relevant to our customer, while still being completely true to the brand’s DNA.
Favorite items: Our new brand launch, Carelli, had an amazing development of ready-to-wear this season, particularly the silk jacquard sets. Roame, another new brand for us, had a fantastic collection and their gold jacquard dress with a fringe belt was a real favorite. Maison Essentiele, our UK-exclusive partner, also stood out with fringe tops and skirts. I loved the way they tapped into the growing demand for an alternative, fashion-led approach to bridal.
Noted trends: Maximalism is a key trend for me — and one I personally love. There’s a hint of eccentricity and individuality to it that feels particularly exciting for SS27. Silk jacquards in rich, saturated colorways, midi skirts, funnel necks, and fringe were all particularly strong.
Bestsellers-to-be: Dôen really speaks to the current mood around femininity. I loved its use of beautiful silk colorways and lace, with some real hero pieces that I can see becoming bestsellers. Alemais had a fantastic collection that captured its creative approach to maximalism. The embroidery, jacquards and rich tones felt very strong for SS27.
Key takeaway: There was a real sense of brands taking more risks and expressing their individual creativity and DNA, rather than following a singular trend. That feels particularly relevant to the Liberty customer: she wants fashion with personality, pieces that feel distinctive and unexpected, but that she can connect with and make her own.
Buyer responses have been edited for length and clarity.
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Madeleine Schulz is the US Editor at Vogue Business, where she covers fashion news, trends, and industry shake-ups and crossovers. She was most recently a reporter and editorial associate at Vogue Business and editorial assistant at Flaunt magazine in Los Angeles. She is based in New York. ... Read More