3sixteen’s Japanese Selvedge Jeans Are Worth the Hype—Here's What Sets Them Apart

NOTHING BEATS FINDING jeans that fit perfectly: The seat is flattering, the length hits your shoes just right, the waistband hugs your hips snug yet ever so gently, and David Bowie’s “Jean Genie” seems to follow you wherever you go. It’s an infrequent find that takes sifting, but damn, the payoff is worth it.

When Style Editor Joseph Cheatham tried over 60 pairs of jeans and named 3sixteen as the best selvedge pair, I couldn’t agree more, though, I’ll admit, they’re my personal pick for best overall.

3sixteen’s heavyweight tees were my gateway drug to selvedge denim. They were much heavier than anything I owned, required a bit more care when washing and drying, and cost more than I was used to. They also quickly became the only tees I wore; nothing compared to the earned comfort. If you’re into raw and/or selvedge denim, this probably sounds familiar.

I finally tried 3sixteen’s jeans when I started working at a men’s shop specializing in raw denim (shout-out Reserve Supply Company—go tell Jason what’s up if you’re in Houston). Between studying Heddels posts, listening to my boss wax poetic on warp and weft, and meeting with brands at trade shows, I learned more about denim than I ever thought I would. I tried pairs from Naked & Famous, Rogue Territory, Pure Blue Japan, Tellason, and Iron Heart, to name a few. After a few hits and a lot of misses, I landed on 3sixteen.

3sixteen’s jeans are sewn in San Francisco using 14.5-ounce Japanese denim from Kuroki Mills. The Japanese have been perfecting selvedge denim for over 70 years now using shuttle looms—a hands-on process that requires tedious skill. That’s why Japanese denim remains revered and costly (but worth it!). 3sixteen perfected the fit.

Immediately, I was struck by the fabric weight. For reference, a standard pair of Levi’s 501 jeans weighs about 11 ounces. You may think three ounces is negligible, but no, 3sixteen CTs feel so much sturdier; heavy without weighing me down, substantial but soft. I always heard raw denim was like wearing cardboard, and that’s true in some cases, but not here. The CT fit—a.k.a. Classic Tapered fit—has a mid-rise that sits comfortably under my belly button and a very slight taper that doesn’t choke out my calf or ankles. I know there’s been recent talk of the return of skinny jeans, but no way am I on that train. If you agree, these are for you.

While I love inky dark indigo denim, my most worn pairs have been the stonewashed CS jeans. They were so good I had to get them in black and the now-sold-out vintage wash. The only difference between the CT and CS is in the leg—CS forgoes the slight taper under the knee for that classic straight fit. It’s not a wide leg per se, nor billowy; I'd describe it as a clean silhouette. The CS jeans were great through summer when I wanted as little fabric on me as possible, though I’ve worn them year-round for the past couple of years.

I’m neurotic about pockets. They’re highly utilitarian but are somehow overlooked on a lot of jeans. Either they’re small, sit too low, or have a brand’s signature stitching. Not to mention, the pocket bags on some might as well be made of tissue; they tear and wear so fast. 3sixteen’s jeans nail my Platonic Ideal of pockets in form and style. They’re well placed, big enough to actually use, and the pocket bags are thick cotton.

The marketing jargon around selvedge denim is verbose but true—they’re more personal than your standard jeans. They also cost more and need a bit more care (i.e., wash in cold water and hang dry), but they're well worth it. Selvedge denim has better construction that lasts longer, but don’t expect to have just one pair for life. Trust me, once you get a pair, you’ll want more. I highly recommend 3sixteen for the selvedge denim afflicted.

SHOP 3sixteen CLASSIC TAPERED JEANS