Dubai Fashion Week opened its spring/summer 2027 season with a reminder that the region’s fashion ambitions extend well beyond the runway.
Before the first models took their places on Thursday, a showroom in Dubai Design District previewed emerging talent from around the world and introduced several designers to the UAE market.
Among them was Bahrain’s Touchless, whose 3D-printed handbags have already attracted the attention of British Vogue, Selfridges, Level Shoes and Fashion Trust Arabia, as well as making an appearance in the Bridgerton universe.
Egyptian jeweller-turned-eyewear designer Amr Saad brought a precious touch with bespoke gold and silver frames finished with jewellery-like detailing along the arms and bridge.
Tunisian footwear label Balga drew on traditional metalworking techniques for its sculptural heels. Leather mules featured hand-hammered metalwork, including a tapered heel etched with graphic lines reminiscent of baklava.
Kuwaiti designer Kochylia, whose name means seashells in Greek, offered a considered take on wardrobe classics, from reworked trench coats to tuxedo jackets finished with handmade porcelain buttons fashioned from Kuwaiti mud.
Yousef Al Jasmi
The evening’s runway programme opened with Kuwait’s Yousef Al Jasmi, a designer well-versed in dressing for the spotlight. Having created looks for Lady Gaga, he understands the appeal of theatrical excess, and this collection delivered it in abundance.
Crystal-encrusted dresses skimmed the body, long strands of crystals cascaded from shoulder to floor, and sculpted bodices were paired with sheer, close-fitting skirts. Moving from barely-there nude to dramatic black, the collection was designed to catch the light from every angle.
Sara Pedram
Next came self-taught designer Sara Pedram, whose collection, Simurgh, drew inspiration from The Conference of the Birds, the 12th-century epic poem by Attar of Nishapur. Exploring transformation, spirituality and Persian cultural heritage, Pedram translated the story into a series of sculptural silhouettes.
A ballerina opened the show, followed by sheer creations with wing-like extensions at the shoulders. A richly embellished burnt-umber column gown gave way to a shimmering cascade of swaying paillettes, while a Prussian-blue velvet gown featured a Swarovski-crystal Tree of Life traced across its train, symbolising growth and renewal.
Most arresting was a voluminous, full-skirted creation in rough hessian, hand-painted with a scene inspired by Persian poet Hafez, whose work, Pedram explained, was “close to my heart”.
“Simurgh is a legendary bird that represents rebirth, transformation and rising again,” Pedram explained backstage. “This collection is very personal to me, especially this year. Fashion is more than a beautiful dress; I love to explain the story behind each piece.”
Pallavi Puri
Indian designer Pallavi Puri followed with Beyond Borders, a collection exploring cultural exchange through a wardrobe designed for women across the region.
Drawing inspiration from family and friends, their tastes and the way they dress, Puri reworked traditional Indian beadwork for a contemporary audience, citing Emirati, Asian and Moroccan women among her most inspirational clientele.
Horses were another recurring motif, reflecting both the designer’s long-standing fascination with the animals and Dubai’s enduring equestrian culture.
Indian model Lisa Haydon opened the show, while Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdel Nour closed it wearing an embellished bridal look.
“Did you realise one is from India and one is Arab?” Puri said, highlighting the collection’s cross-cultural message. “My show is Beyond Borders, so it is about mixing and coming together.”
It was Haydon's first appearance for Puri and a return to opening a runway show after a lengthy break.
“When you open a show, you set the tone, so I was extra nervous,” she admitted. “This is [Puri’s] debut show [at Dubai Fashion Week], so it was quite a special moment to be part of. I have walked in Dubai Fashion Week before, but today was a lot of firsts.”
Kresha Bajaj
Closing the evening was Kresha Bajaj, who returned with a collection showcasing the designer’s signature beadwork.
Applied to daywear, it trailed across delicate crocheted tops, framed the necklines of street-style tank tops and formed striking zebra-skin patterns.
As the collection moved into evening wear, the embellishment became increasingly elaborate, forming latticework across torsos, looping around hips and swaying across legs with every step. It was glamour with an edge.