LONDON — Where else in the world can one acquire a Chagall, a chair by fashion-to-industrial designer Samuel Ross or a necklace dripping with diamonds in one place?
PAD London, the annual art and collectible design fair held each October in Berkeley Square, typically showcases historic, modern and contemporary design, furniture and decorative arts from leading international galleries. Held during Frieze London and Frieze Masters, it attracts some of the world’s most discerning collectors — and luxury players are taking notice.
Organizers of PAD (Pavilion of Art and Design) said this edition, which ran Tuesday to Sunday, brought forth 12 new exhibitors eager to tap into London’s vibrant collector scene, among them French fashion house Yves Salomon and jewelry firm Buccellati, in addition to the creations of Greek jewelry designer Nikos Koulis, thus broadening the dialogue between art and design and the fashion and luxury sectors. “These exhibitors are a natural fit for PAD, sharing with the world of design a common appreciation for creativity, materials and craftsmanship. Some fashion and jewelry pieces are true works of design in their own right,” according to a PAD spokesperson.
Luxury’s Affair With the Design World
Since the early 2000s, fashion has been keen to connect with the design world as a way to promote its business and diversify its loyal customer base. Milan Design Week, anchored by the Salone del Mobile.Milano trade show, has long been a hub for such interaction.
But a presence at niche, collectible design events can be a gateway to a unique clientele. According to organizers, PAD for example has proved its relevance as a cross-cultural and generational hub, with an influx of younger collectors, ages 30 to 45, as well as a rise in buyers from the Middle East, Singapore, Hong Kong and Latin America.
At PAD London, luxury brands like Buccellati and Yves Salomon leveraged the fair as a platform to connect with affluent, design-savvy collectors, while at the same time aiming to showcase the same type of cultivated eclecticism, authenticity and connoisseurship exhibited by PAD’s established galleries.
The potential for engagement with new audiences was paramount for Buccellati, its chief executive officer Nicolas Luchsinger said.
“Participating in PAD London reflects our desire to further strengthen Buccellati’s relationship with the international world of collecting. For us, it is an opportunity to bring our jewelry and silverware into a broader cultural context, alongside the work of artists, designers and makers who share a deep commitment to craftsmanship and enduring objects,” he said. At PAD, the Italian jeweler enticed collectors with new designs from its Macri Capri and Macri Positano Eternelle jewelry collections, alongside silver from its Doge Collection. Its stand was designed by Chahan Minassian, the interior designer behind the brand’s new Caviar Bar in Milan.
Luchsinger said PAD is one of the most important events in London and the world, alongside the Frieze and Frieze Masters art fairs. It’s also held during the week when major auction houses host their most important collections. “Being able to attract all the international clients present in London at that time was a big draw for us,” Luchsinger said. Buccellati recorded 2,700 guests at its booth between Tuesday and Sunday.
A Fresh Chapter
Yves Salomon, who has made his family name famous worldwide for the firm’s ready-to-wear designs, represented its collectible design and fine furniture business at PAD. Salomon told WWD that his primary aim was highlighting his company’s potential as a gallery with a distinctive curatorial vision.
“Our furniture business is performing super well considering we started just two years ago, so now we are starting to show and sell,” Salomon said, adding that his furniture endeavors started 20 years ago when he began collecting with his wife. His firm made its furniture debut under the name Yves Salomon Éditions in 2024, with a furniture collaboration with Chapo Creation. They are now making in-house collections.
Salomon’s first participation at PAD London involved a curated array of historic and contemporary design from his own collection: historic furniture by visionary figures including Carlo Bugatti, Joseph Hoffmann, André Sornay, Gaetano Borsani, Gino Levi-Montalcini and Giuseppe Pagano was shown alongside contemporary works created in collaboration with Michael Bargo. PAD organizers said Yves Salomon Éditions sold many works by Carlo Bugatti, with the majority of pieces selling for an average of 30,000 euros.
Elsewhere at PAD, exhibitors included newcomers like Bessa Pereira from Lisbon and Milan, specializing in Portuguese modern and contemporary works and regulars like New York’s Friedman Benda gallery and the Paris-based ones Galerie Kreo and Laffanour Galerie Downtown.
The Paris and Venice-based gallery of Chahan Minassian has been showcasing at PAD London since 2008. This year Minassian presented designs, some of which were 1950s creations, including sequoia sculpted vintage doors by American designer Evelyn Ackerman, a rare sofa by Renzo Zavanella and an armchair and ottoman by Edward Worsley.
Studio Willy Rizzo, which carries on the vision of the fashion photojournalist and furniture designer, showcased iconic photographs of Yves Saint Laurent, Jane Fonda and Marilyn Monroe alongside vintage furniture creations like a sculpted table and a chrome-sided bar.
Nikos Koulis launched a new high jewelry collection that pairs rare tortoiseshell acetate with precious stones, underscoring how the exploration of fine jewelry as an art form is on the rise this year.
Across the pond next month, the theme will be picked back up at art and antiques showcase Salon Art + Design, unfolding in New York Nov. 4 to 8. This year’s participants include Mellerio, the world’s oldest jewelry house, New York-based Dyne, and Los Angeles-based Vram, whose presentations reflect the growing intersection of jewelry, sculpture, fashion and collectible design.
The Outlook for Collectible Art and Design
The outlook for collectible design and art is looking up, despite a challenging economy.
The Art Basel and UBS Survey of Global Collecting 2026 report released by UBS’ arts economics division showed the global art market has continued to gain momentum. The closely watched first-half sales figures from major international auction houses, often treated as a barometer for the upper tier of the global market, pointed to a substantial multibillion-dollar recovery, the report said.
Christie’s, for example, reported a 71 percent rise in auction sales for a total turnover of $4.5 billion in the first half. Sotheby’s posted a record first half, with consolidated sales 58 percent higher to $4.4 billion. Its public auction sales were up 59 percent.
Overall, this outlook extends a recovery that emerged last year, when sales rose 4 percent to $59.6 billion.
Amid this forecast, PAD organizers said that new exhibitors like Yves Salomon, Buccellati, Paris-based Galerie Boketto and Korean-led Lloyd Choi will return to the next edition of PAD London, confirming the potential for luxury brands within the collectible design space.
