Puffing my way up the final sharp incline of a single-track road, I stop to savour the view from 400m above sea level, the highest point of the day’s walk.
Crowding the skyline are the olive bumps and dips of Harter Fell and the steep rounded flanks of The Howgill Fells. Clouds drift across a duck-egg blue sky, and the sun highlights every detail of this wind-scoured landscape.
I’m on my second day of walking the Westmorland and Furness Way (W&FW). Launched last month, the 120-mile (193km) trail traces its way southwest through Cumbria from the market town of Alston in the North Pennines National Landscape to the ruins of Furness Abbey near the port town of Barrow-on-Furness.
Stitching together seven existing long-distance paths, including the Dales High Way, the Cumbria Way and the King Charles III England Coast Path, it traverses striking countryside, including the North Pennines National Landscape and Yorkshire Dales National Park.
The vision for the trail came from local walker and guidebook writer David Pitt, inspired by the creation of the new Westmorland and Furness local authority in 2023. The council then developed the route and made necessary improvements.
“It was designed to showcase the area,” says Neil Thirkell, countryside access officer for Westmorland and Furness Council. “It does a lovely job of that. I’ve explored this area a lot – I started work as a ranger back in 1996 – but this trail took me to a lot of places I didn’t know.”
Since its launch, there have been over 5,000 visits to the website for the trail, and one hiker has completed the entire route.
Developing the trail took almost three years, with 61 stiles being replaced by gates and drainage work required. It passes over traditional drystone walls, ancient stone steps and “breathe in and squeeze” stiles (v-shaped gaps that allow pedestrians to pass, but not livestock), all of which are seen as part of the area’s cultural heritage.
The full route isn’t wheelchair accessible, but a stretch of section six, between Rampside and Furness Abbey, is flat and tarmacked.
Each of its six sections takes two to four days to complete, depending on a walker’s inclination and ambition.
As I’m trying to pack sections two and three into two days, I shave 7.6 miles (12km) off the first section by taking the train. Stepping out at Appleby-in-Westmorland, I pick up the trail from the station, pass along the high street (Boroughgate) and around Appleby Castle, before dipping down to the banks of the River Eden.
The flat path makes for easy walking through pastures, bridleways and woodland. With only sheep and cattle for company, my day is soundtracked by the soothing drip of rain through a leafy canopy and the occasional flap of a startled heron.
Although I’m walking solo, the only sense of threat comes from a Fell pony, who snuffles my backpack in the hope of treats. There’s scenic drama, too, as the route passes the romantic ruins of Brough Castle, seat of the Clifford family for 450 years.
I only meet a few people along the way. Two dog walkers, a couple of farmers and two walkers on a different hiking route.
After eight hours of walking, I squelch into Kirkby Stephen, having clocked up 16 miles (25km). It’s a huge relief to twist the key in the door of my overnight stay, an immaculate cottage, and peel off my muddy waterproofs.
On the recommendation of cottage owners Chris and FeiFei Casey, who also run a wholefood shop in the town, I hobble to the high street to order a restorative, carb-laden Indian takeaway.
An historic town that has held a market charter since the 14th century, Kirkby Stephen also has a church containing a mysterious Viking carving, the Loki Stone.
As well as serving the farming community, the town is a hiking hub. Several trails converge here, the best known being the Coast to Coast and Lady Anne’s Way, inspired by 17th century landowner Lady Clifford.
According to Chris, “the [new] trail strengthens the case for describing Kirkby Stephen as one of the epicentres for long-distance walking in Northern England”.
Kicking myself for not planning a rest day, I set off next morning for another 16-miler over tussocky moorland and heathered hills. The sun is out and skylarks trill overhead as I pause to take in the view of Smardale Viaduct straddling a valley half a mile away.
From here, it’s downhill to Ravenstonedale, the sort of dreamy village that has you checking local estate agent websites. At the King’s Head, Jack, a St Bernard, sprawls by the fire while locals line up for a pint, with options such as the Fell Walker.
Landlord Kenny is enthusiastic about the new trail: “It’s got to be a good thing for the area,” he says.
“We’ve posted about it on our social media channels and have put up a new route sign.”
While it’s hard to leave the comfort of a cushioned bar stool, I need to crack on and tackle The Howgills. After Ravenstonedale, the path splits into two before rejoining at Sedbergh. One route goes over The Calf, which is 676m high; the other, less strenuous, option rises to 400m, but is no less spectacular.
Alongside the time-worn Fells, streams tumble this way and that. At one point, I slosh through a small river, gaining a wet boot into the bargain. Neil tells me there are plans to build a bridge here. Further along, England’s highest above ground waterfall, Cautley Spout, spills down a cliff-face.
The last mile or so hugs the River Rawthey into Sedbergh, an old trading crossroads, once crowned by a Norman castle. Today, it’s best known as a book town, with a crowd-pulling crime fiction festival.
With sore feet and aching muscles, I check into The Black Bull Inn, where a deep bathtub awaits.
It has been a tough, but satisfying, couple of days. I would tackle some of the W&WF again, but allow more time. As Neil says: “It’s a route to be savoured, rather than hurried.”
How to do it
The writer was a guest of Visit Cumbria and travelled from London Euston to Carlisle on Avanti West Coast trains, then to Appelby in Westmorland on the Settle to Carlisle line.
On the return journey, she caught the Western Dales bus from Sedbergh to Oxenholme, then an Avanti West Coast train from Oxenholme Lake District station to London Euston.
Where to stay
Appleby Castle has room-only doubles from £129 per night, applebycastle.org
In Kirkby Stephen, La Petite Mews is a two-bed self-catering cottage, from £138, muddybootsescapes.co.uk
The Black Bull Inn in Sedbergh has doubles with breakfast from £189, theblackbullsedbergh.co.ukMore information