Dark spots, melasma and more: your guide to hyperpigmentation and the skincare that helps

Clear, beautiful skin has been an MO amongst humans since time immemorial – we are hardwired to associate it with good health.  Add in a little cultural societal skin tone pressure, a social media obsession with ‘glass’ complexions that emulate the clarity of a Norwegian Fjord and it’s little wonder studies show pigmentary concerns can impact self-esteem. “Pigmentation itself isn’t the issue,” explains Dr Stefanie Williams, founder of Delo RX skincare and Cosmetic Dermatologist at The Lovely Clinic.

 “All healthy skin contains melanin – an essential pigment that gives skin (and hair) its colour and helps protect it from UV damage. What bothers people is irregular pigmentation - an uneven tone that research links to looking not only less youthful and attractive, but also less healthy.” Dr Stefanie notes that irregular pigmentation, or hyperpigmentation (‘too much pigmentation’), occurs when the skin overproduces melanin. Here are our top picks for putting your best face forward.

How do I know which type of hyperpigmentation I have?

“Irregular pigmentation or hyperpigmentation can have various reasons,” says Dr Stefanie. Common types include:

• Sun spots (solar lentigines) which are flat, brown marks that appear on chronically sun exposed areas such as the face and backs of the hands, and become more numerous with age and cumulative sun exposure. They can be so numerous that they become partly confluent, resulting in a mottled pigmentation all over the face (typically in fair skin).
• True freckles (ephelides). These are a separate, inherited pattern rather than a sign of chronic sun damage, though freckle-prone skin can still be more susceptible to sun induced pigmentation over time.
• Melasma shows as larger, symmetrical, sharply demarcated and often bizarrely shaped brown patches, often on the temples or above the upper lip. Melasma can be influenced by hormones, which is why it is so often triggered by pregnancy or the contraceptive pill (sun makes it worse), and it tends to be more stubborn and prone to recurrence.
• Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the brown marking left behind after inflammation including acne breakouts, eczema or any injury to the skin. It is more common in darker skin tones and can affect any age group.

“As each type can overlap and are not always straightforward to tell apart, a proper assessment by a Dermatologist before starting treatment is recommended rather than guessing and potentially applying the wrong approach,” warns Dr Stefanie. “It’s difficult to reliably self-diagnose which type you are. A dermatologist uses history (sun, hormones, pregnancy, acne, inflammation), examination, and sometimes tools such as Wood’s lamp or dermoscopy to tell epidermal vs dermal pigment to conclude what type you have.”

Can skincare help with hyperpigmentation?

“Yes, skincare has an important role to play, both in fading existing pigmentation and in preventing new pigmentation from forming,” assures Dr Stefanie. “The key is consistency and the right combination of ingredients, alongside daily broad-spectrum sun protection with SPF 30-50, as a single day of unprotected sun exposure can undo months of progress.”

However, if skincare hasn’t succeeded in lightening irregular pigmentation, Dr Stefanie notes that your dermatologist can prescribe prescription strength topicals such as the Kligman triple formulation, which is the gold standard for treating irregular pigmentation.

What are the best at home ingredients to tackle it?

The good news? “There are countless topical ingredients that are available over the counter that can help lighten irregular pigmentation – from various peptides, to niacinamide, liquorice root, tranexamic acid to vitamin C, to name but a few,” says Dr Stefanie. The slightly more annoying news is that sadly there is no single miracle ingredient, so according to Dr Stefanie, the best strategy is a good combination products that cleverly combines anti-pigment ingredients to cover not only one pigment generation pathway, but as many as possible. “Be consistent, have patience, and use it alongside daily sun protection with SPF 30 to 50,” she says. “And remember, irregular pigmentation improves gradually (best results can take 6 months), not overnight, but with the right regime the results are very much worth the effort.”

Our Favourite Hyperpigmentation Fixes

THE CLEVER COVER-UP: Prada Reveal Concealer

Our verdict:

The creamy formula glides on beautifully, melting into the skin with a weightless, crease-resistant finish that blurs darker areas. The arrow-shaped applicator makes for precision micro-correcting.

Why: Hyperpigmentation can be stubborn so optical illusion is a valid strategy. Disguising uneven skin tone requires smart, lightweight formulas with trompe l’oeil optics; heavy coverage simply looks like heavy coverage.

Star Ingredients: Micro-Filter Pearls optimise light diffusion for a soft-focus, natural glow while the 80% skincare base featuring a peptide complex and squalene improves bare skin quality over time.

THE POTENT PREVENTOR: Kllira The Dayscript Dry & Hyperpigmentation

Our verdict:

We love the fact that this hyperpigmentation variant is also available in both oily and dry skin iterations (dry is our formula of choice). It leaves skin feeling perfectly hydrated without any greasy residue or tell-tale SPF film.

Why: SPF is the cornerstone of any anti-hyperpigmentation regime but a recent clinical study presented at the British Association of Dermatologists Annual Meeting highlighted that this formula’s combination of antioxidants improved mitochondrial DNA integrity.

Star ingredients: Broad spectrum UV protection paired with targeted antioxidants

THE DEEP DOWN DEVICE: Lyma Laser

Our verdict:

The cold laser technology means no heat, pain or downtime (you have to suspend your disbelief and trust it’s actually working) but this is one of the most potent skinvestments on the market. 

Elizabeth Hurley credits it with reversing sun damage on her face and hands and if it’s good enough for Liz…

Why: Target pigmentation at a cellular level in the comfort of your own home. The glow-giving gadget works beneath the skin surface to break up excess melanin and support collagen regeneration.

Star ingredients: Employs clinical-grade, 500mW near-infrared laser energy (a different light structure to LED).