Tom Maloney
Aneurin Bevan is a name that flows naturally off the tongue and naturally too we think of him when our thoughts turn to the creation of the National Health Service, as he did so much to bring it into being in 1948. He is not just a legendary figure; he remains by all standards a giant of his age.
But perhaps too, we forget what a step forward it was to make health care free at the point of need for everyone, regardless of how well off someone was. In the not-too-distant past it wasn’t so. Growing up, Aneurin Bevan knew all too well the anxiety and fear that illness or injury held in the minds of many people if faced with medical bills. It could make a family destitute.
They say that ‘you can take the boy out of the valleys, but you can’t take the valleys out of the boy’. In a way this phrase, that actually originates in America, is tailor made for Aneurin.
The depth of his desire to make a difference drove his political passion and took him on a journey far away from his roots in Tredegar, a story that is well told by Nicklaus Thomas-Symonds in his book ‘Nye – The Political Life of Aneurin Bevan’.
In so many ways these roots framed him and taught him lessons that stayed with him throughout his remarkable life. In the end, the call of the land of his birth brought him back.
Just a short distance to the north of Tredegar, you will find the little, unassuming village of Trefil at the top of the Sirhowy Valley, where the ashes of Aneurin Bevan were scattered after his death 66 years ago. It shares its connection with the great man with pride.
It was perfect autumnal day on the day of my visit. The colours of the season were rich and vibrant; there was strength in the breeze and the sun had warmth. I took a little time to read the welcoming sign. I like its wording in both Welsh and English very much.
Trefil
1.341 tr/ft 409m
Y pentraf uchaf yng Nghymru
The highest village in Wales
Lle bu Aneurin Bevan yn cerdded,
siarad ac yn gorffwys am byth.
Where Aneurin Bevan walked,
talked and forever rests.
So, where better than to step out at Trefil, a place that he loved, to get a sense of what touched his inner feelings, where he once walked and talked with those who were close to him.
This thought carried me along as I set off on my walk from the village along the quarry road. It was not long before I dropped down to follow the winding, snake-like course of the stream ‘Nant Trefil’ to the Duke’s Table.
You get an altogether different perspective of the valley from the stream and it is a good way to avoid the rumble of the heavy lorries that regularly use the road.
I feel sure that ‘Nye’ would have sat at the Duke’s Table on more than one occasion and would more than likely have had a strong opinion about it as well.
It’s an intriguing circular structure, rather reminiscent of a crab with its claws ready to pounce, that really makes you think about who made it and why it was built. ‘Coflein – The online catalogue of archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales’ reveals its purpose as a picnic site:
‘The Duke’s Table or picnic site constructed for dining purposes during hunting excursions, is located on the east bank of Nant Trefil. Both table and bench are now capped with turf though the edges of the stone features are clearly visible.’
Various sources attribute it to the Duke of Beaufort, which seems to make perfect sense to me, since it is so well suited as a place to sit a while for a pleasant outdoor lunch and would have required some wealth to be able to afford such a luxury. It would appear that it even has its own wine cooler just to the side.
Such contrast here, between those that had wealth and the great many people that struggled to make ends meet.
Now, of course, we can all enjoy the opportunity to picnic at the ‘Duke’s Table’ and the views are just grand as well.
After spending a little time lost in my thoughts and just listening to the steady flow of the stream, I turned to the hillside to make my way up Mynydd Llangynidr to the Chartist Caves.
It is a steep slope, make no mistake, but the grass underfoot, rejuvenated and revitalised by rain after the long, dry summer months, cushions each step that you take and as you gain the high ground then the generous visual rewards come into play. When the weather is kind, this is a joyous place to walk.
Over the years I have learned to look for significant features in the landscape to guide me on my way and when I am on route to the Chartist Caves I look for Garn Fawr.
As cairns go, this is a significant one and lets you know that history here goes back to more ancient times as well.
When the sun catches the time worn surface of the ‘Bronze Age’ stones, they appear to light up and really catch your eye, drawing your attention and interest.
Although the caves are very close by and just a short distance off the main path, the nature of this windswept moorland landscape makes the entrance to the caves very difficult to spot, especially if trying to find this iconic feature for the first time – so it is best to have a little time to spare.
And I suppose that’s why the caves were chosen in the first place. The entrance is secretive, just the sort of place to hatch an insurrection, away from prying eyes, prying ears … and those that may betray you.
A plaque placed at the entrance in 1989 by Tredegar Town Council to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the insurrection lets you know the significance of this isolated, remote spot in Welsh and British history.
THE CHARTIST CAVES
Pikes and possibly other weapons were
secretly made and stockpiled in these caves
during the summer of 1839.
They were subsequently carried by the Tredegar
Chartists on the great march to seize
Newport, 3rd – 5th November 1839. This became
the greatest armed clash between government
and British people in the nineteenth century
and resulted in over twenty deaths and the
last mass treason trial in British History.
Ten of those that died in the battle at The Westgate Hotel, Newport lie buried at St. Woolos Cathedral in unmarked graves. In time their legacy led to the democratic rights we all enjoy today and perhaps at times take for granted. To be able to vote freely, without intimidation, did not come without sacrifice.
As I stop to think about it, I first went to the Chartists Caves whilst I was still a teenager on a school outdoor pursuits activity week.
Of all the school trips that I went on and I went on a few, this particular day has stayed with me all my years. Whenever I think about the Chartists I always think about the caves.
It connected with my soul really; this was history that you could feel in your bones.
The link between Aneurin Bevan and the Chartists is huge. He represents the ambition of their demands for universal suffrage and the right to be able to become a Member of Parliament regardless of one’s background and wealth.
Where there is limestone, you will more than likely find quarrying too and Trefil is no exception. As at Blaenafon, the quarryman’s hand is much in evidence as the limestone was needed to feed the hungry ironworks at Beaufort during the heady days of the Industrial Revolution locally.
Just a stone’s throw from the caves, following the path back to the village, the rawness of this history is all too plain.
Trefil village quarry is stark and uncompromising, a powerful reminder of how man can change the land dramatically, leaving brutal scars that are indelible, that ask so many questions about how we should harvest the bounty of the Earth.
Turning away from the quarry my eyes were drawn to the mountain ponies and to the graceful, soaring flight of a single Red Kite, all free spirits roaming in their space and my thoughts again turned to Aneurin Bevan.
In his day, he too was a free spirit, who soared way above the horizon of life, but was able yet to make a difference that mattered so much to the needs of the many and still does.
November marks the month of his birth in 1897, just at the end of the Victorian era. Remarkably, he began his working life ‘down the pit’ at the age of just thirteen, but then went on to serve in government and be instrumental in the creation of the National Health Service – an amazing story really.
Caring for the health needs across the UK is a huge task for sure and if a ledger of good was to be compiled it would be the biggest ever compilation that you could possibly imagine and far, far out way any shortcomings. I personally feel immensely grateful that it is there.
I would like to have heard Aneurin speak at the height of his powers of oratory, but I content myself that I can walk where he felt at home, where it feels like his animated voice is still carried by the wind.
He remains an example to us all.
Useful Information
Photographs
All the photographs in this article were taken on the 8th October 2026
Getting to Trefil
Trefil is quite straight forward to find following the A465 Heads of the Valleys Road. Turn off at the sign marked Tredegar and Trefil.
Walking at Trefil
Trefil is a fantastic place to walk – this article is just a snapshot really. It has so much that is interesting and the views are simply amazing, but great care should be exercised as well. There are steep drops and walking close to the quarry cliffs is hazardous and should be avoided. In poor weather this landscape presents many dangers. Be prepared and wear appropriate boots and clothing for the outdoors. I would recommend the use of a walking stick – I never walk without one now.
Parking – Trefil is a small village with limited parking for visitors
NB. Be aware when walking that heavy lorries use the road to the working quarry.
Sources and other information:
Nicklaus Thomas-Symonds
Nye – The Political Life of Aneurin Bevan’
Aneurin Bevan Heritage Trail
https://www.blaenau-gwent.gov.uk/media/b5ocn4o5/nye_trail_eng.pdf
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