A weed that grows rapidly in ponds and obstructs waterways has found an unlikely place in the fashion industry. In Biskohar, a town in Uttar Pradesh's Siddharthnagar district, women are learning to turn dried water hyacinth into handcrafted products, with their work now reaching the Lakmé Fashion Week runway.
Designer Anurag Gupta has showcased designs featuring hand-spun weaves made from the plant's fibres. For the women involved, the initiative offers an opportunity to develop a skill, earn through their work and build a livelihood without leaving their village.
Finding a productive use for an invasive aquatic plant and creating economic opportunities for women who have faced social marginalisation and limited livelihood options are two challenges this project brings.
However, the fashion show is only one milestone. Whether the initiative makes a lasting difference will depend on its ability to turn visibility into regular orders and reliable earnings.
How water hyacinth becomes a material for handmade products
Water hyacinth, locally known as jalkumbhi, grows rapidly in ponds, lakes and other water bodies. When left unchecked, it can obstruct waterways and disturb aquatic ecosystems.
The plant can also be processed into a material for handicrafts. Its stems are dried and cut into strips that can be used to create fibres for weaving. Artisans can turn these into bags, baskets, home accessories and packaging materials. The leftover plant matter can also be used to make handmade paper.
Gupta, who grew up in Siddharthnagar, began exploring this possibility after seeing craftspersons from Bihar making baskets, mats and gift items from water hyacinth at a showcase in Delhi. He subsequently learnt about the work of Earthomadic Foundation, an organisation that works with sex workers and trains them in artisan skills.
These experiences led him to consider whether a similar initiative could be developed in Biskohar, where women have faced social stigma and barriers to economic opportunities.
The idea offers a potential commercial use for a plant commonly treated as waste. It also creates a route for local artisans to participate in the market for handmade and sustainable products. The extent of its environmental impact, however, will depend on how much water hyacinth is harvested and whether the activity contributes meaningfully to managing its spread.
Designer Anurag Gupta who brought the village women's handcrafted product to Lakme Fasion Week.
Why the women were reluctant to join the project
According to The Indian Express, Gupta spent around 10 months trying to persuade the women to participate. Their hesitation stemmed from previous experiences with social initiatives that generated publicity but did not bring lasting improvements to their circumstances.
One woman, identified by the publication as Sanichari*, questioned why they should join another campaign when earlier efforts had failed to deliver meaningful change.
“Everybody uses us to get headlines and then forgets us. They use us for their causes, get their grants and leave us midway,” she told The Indian Express.
Her response highlights a challenge for livelihood projects involving marginalised communities. Providing training is only one part of the process. Participants also need a credible way to earn from the skills they acquire.
The women agreed to participate only after the first consignment of products had been booked, the report said. An initial order offered a more tangible reason to trust the initiative than a promise of future opportunities.
What their fashion week appearance could lead to
At Lakmé Fashion Week, the women's hand-spun weaves made from dried water hyacinth fibres featured in Gupta's designs. The showcase brought their craftsmanship to a prominent fashion platform, giving the work visibility beyond their village.
The next step is to find customers who will continue buying the products after the runway presentation. Gupta is exploring possible markets across home and lifestyle products, corporate gifting, retail and e-commerce. Packaging for brands and businesses is another potential avenue.
These markets could create different kinds of demand, from individual purchases to larger business orders. But visibility alone cannot guarantee a steady income. The women will need continuing access to buyers and fair payment for their work if the initiative is to become financially sustainable.
Can water hyacinth craft provide a dependable livelihood?
The project is considering a training programme under which participating women would receive a stipend during their initial month of learning. Those who choose to continue could undertake home-based production against orders.
This arrangement could help women develop a skill while accommodating family responsibilities and other constraints. Linking production to actual orders could also offer a clearer path from training to paid work.
For Gupta, the aim is to build a model that allows women to earn within their village rather than migrate elsewhere in search of employment. Whether that goal is achieved will depend on the availability of regular work, the value of orders and the consistency of payments.
The initiative has taken the women's craft from Biskohar to one of India's best-known fashion platforms. Its longer-term success will be measured not by a runway appearance alone, but by whether the women can turn their new skills into dependable livelihoods.
Inputs from TOI