Another seat in fashion’s seemingly endless game of designer musical chairs has just opened up. After nearly a year of industry whispers, on Oct. 9 Saint Laurent finally made it official: Anthony Vaccarello is leaving after a (mostly) successful decade as creative director.
Vaccarello had stalwart relationships with longtime stars Zoë Kravitz, Zoë Saldaña, Hailey Bieber, Blackpink’s Rosé, Chloë Sevigny, Madonna and Kaia Gerber. Just this week, Alexander Skarsgård wore one of his dreamy new gold suits straight off the runway. And we hear Vaccarello is still committed to designing Kravitz’s wedding gown for her marriage to Harry Styles — though, now that he’s leaving, he won’t be able to put the Saint Laurent name on it.
For years, Vaccarello seemed incapable of missing, creating trends out of bomber jackets, punky ballgowns, androgynous tuxedos, sky-high heels and knee-length lace skirts. Saint Laurent sales topped $3.3 billion in 2023 — just before they started sliding in the opposite direction.
To understand why a designer who seemed so untouchable suddenly became expendable, follow the money — or the loss of it. Saint Laurent sales sank 9 percent in 2024, then another 6 percent last year, amid softening demand in Asia and a cooling attitude toward Vaccarello’s rock ’n’ roll aesthetic and metallic fabrics.
But sagging sales were only part of the problem. The real trouble — and likely a big part of why Vaccarello headed for the doors — was coming from inside the building.
Vaccarello and Saint Laurent CEO Cédric Charbit had been butting heads. Charbit — former CEO of Kering sister brand Balenciaga — helped then-designer Demna create hit sneakers and bags. He wanted Vaccarello to do the same — not $4,200 Plexiglass shoes. But Vaccarello, like Hedi Slimane before him, would not budge. He spent tons of money and had no intention of toning it down. As Vogue put it, Vaccarello “is as strong-willed as he is soft-spoken,” resolutely unwilling to bend to trends or fashion’s increasing democratization.
His successor? Saint Laurent says a name is imminent. But you best believe it will be someone Charbit can work with — and someone with a track record not just in trends, but hard sales.
And there are suddenly plenty of designers available for the job. Kering is starting to clean house, having already shuffled creative directors at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, both Chanel and Celine have found success with newer creative leadership under Matthieu Blazy and Michael Rider.
To keep your job in fashion these days, it’s not enough to design a $4,200 pair of shoes. You have to sell them, too.