If there is one thing that the French know how to do, it is fight for their rights. It’s not for the goodness of politicians' hearts that university fees in France are still $200 for a bachelor's degree but thanks to a population that refuses to back down when their rights are being threatened.
Since September, French high school students have been protesting for better conditions, especially in suburban areas often forgotten by institutions. The movement has reached almost unprecedented proportions, with other sectors joining the students, demanding better learning conditions and fighting against the cost-of-living crisis, hike in fuel prices, and erosion of social welfare.
Demonstrators gather across Paris as part of a broader protest movement over rising living costs and college tuition.
Getty ImagesI have seen many large-scale gatherings during my years in France, but nothing like what’s unfolding right now. It’s important, however, to distinguish between peaceful demonstrators and those involved in vandalism, violence, or looting. Although not always of this magnitude, violence and looting have also marred some previous France protests, whether it’s the country winning a football match or students fighting for their rights.
Does that mean Paris—and France as a whole—is now a no-go zone? No, it doesn’t. Certain streets and neighborhoods may be affected by demonstrations, police operations, or temporary closures, but the disruption is not necessarily city-wide. You can still come to Paris during this time and enjoy yourself, provided you keep informed and keep your wits about you when navigating the city. You might have to change some of your plans, but the good thing about Paris is that you can be here for decades, like me, and still discover new beautiful corners.
Choose your neighborhood wisely
When visiting a city, we all tend to want to stay as central as possible, but this is not a good idea when protests are happening. Avoid booking a hotel close to main squares or places of particular significance such as République, Bastille, Nation, and Place de Clichy. Paris is not big and quite easy to navigate from wherever you are—at this time, choose to stay in quieter, residential areas. I suggest areas on the Rive Gauche like the 15th and 14th or the 13th arrondissements. I particularly like the 15th as it has a lot of cute boutique hotels, and it’s close to some lovely places to visit like the Musée Bourdelle.
Stay informed
Although authorized peaceful demonstrations are planned in advance, looters do not give a heads up before they take to the streets, so make sure you keep an eye on French news. For metro closures and issues with public transport, check the Bonjour RATP website, while the Préfecture de Police also publishes information about demonstrations, traffic restrictions, and security measures—it’s worth following for immediate information. When it comes to news outlets, Franceinfo and Le Monde are reliable, so it’s good to keep an eye on their websites. Although outlets such as Le Monde publish in English, its French-language coverage may offer more frequent local updates.
Keep your itinerary flexible
I know it’s sad not to be able to stick to your plans, but for your safety, it is better to avoid certain areas and attractions while the France protests are unfolding. Big institutions like the Louvre and the Élysée Palace are better avoided; instead, visit some of the city's niche sights and smaller museums. You could visit the beautiful Musée Gustave Moreau in the 9th or the Musée Zadkine in the 6th, depending on where you are staying. Big touristy spots such as the Eiffel Tower are open and busy—if you don’t feel comfortable but still want a picture with the monument in the background, head to Île aux Cygnes to see the tiny Statue of Liberty and the Tower in all her glory, from a safe distance.
A version of this story originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK.