Can great wine be made from “inferior” grapes?
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This article is taken from the 2026 October issue of The Critic. To get the full magazine why not subscribe? Find our subscription offers here.
In 1395, Philip the Bold of Burgundy banished the Gamay grape from his lands, describing it as an “evil and disloyal” plant. The only grape for Philip was Noiriens, known today as Pinot Noir.