EVRYTANIA, October 2026 — The Velouchi villages, spread across the fir-clad slopes of Mount Tymfristos, offer stone architecture and mountain calm for an autumn long weekend.
Tymfristos, better known as Velouchi, stretches along the border between Evrytania and Fthiotida. Thick fir forest covers the mountain’s slopes, which climb to 2,315 metres.
Some of the Velouchi villages are famous, while others stay quiet. Still, each keeps its own warmth and authenticity, so all of them suit a short autumn break.
Koryschades, the best loved of the Velouchi villages
Koryschades ranks among the favourite villages of Evrytania, thanks to its natural charm and its closeness to Karpenisi. It sits at 940 metres, in a landscape that smells of wood and burnt leaves in autumn.
Its all-stone houses feature sachnisia, the projecting timber bays of the region, as well as carved wooden balconies. Master builders from Pyrsogianni and Tzoumerka created them.
At the heart of Koryschades, a large paved square with a centuries-old plane tree brings locals and travellers together. Nearby stands the main church, Agios Athanasios, built in 1865.
Walks also lead down to the stream that meets the Karpenisiotis River a little further on. Another route climbs through fir forest to the chapel of Agios Ioannis, with a superb view back over the village.
In addition, the ruins of an early Christian castle crown Palaiokastro hill. They recall the long history of the Velouchi villages.
Stenoma, a hamlet in an open gorge
Stenoma hides at 660 metres on the north-western side of Velouchi, on a slope inside an open gorge. Firs, walnuts, plane trees and oaks form a mosaic of greens around its tiled roofs.
Like the other Velouchi villages, Stenoma keeps traditional houses of finely worked stone and simple lines. In almost every lane, a two-storey mansion stands proudly despite the marks of time.
A pleasant stroll leads to Pera Vrysi, a small stone fountain beneath plane trees, and on to the old watermill. Its semi-basement vaulted room, the Zourio, holds the metal wheel.
Above it, a ground-floor room keeps the wooden mechanism and the millstones, while a small stone bridge stands beside the mill. However, the real appeal of Stenoma lies in its silence, its nature and its locals.
Domianoi and its 1787 frescoes
Domianoi sits at 660 metres on the north-western slopes of Mount Misiakas, part of the Tymfristos massif. Since 1978, it has been a listed traditional settlement.
Built like an amphitheatre, the village looks out over green slopes and high peaks. Old stone houses line narrow cobbled lanes, among chestnuts, cherries, firs, walnuts and running water.
Although Domianoi has no museums or grand squares, it offers rare quiet and unspoilt charm. Among the Velouchi villages, that calm is its greatest gift.
Its standout sight, a short walk from the centre, is the Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos, or Panagia Domianitissa. Inside, frescoes from 1787 show features of Byzantine style.
According to local tradition, the name Domianoi comes from Damianos, the monastery’s first monk.
Gunpowder and emigrants in Mavrilo
Mavrilo ranks among the lesser-known Velouchi villages, perched at 920 metres on the eastern slopes. Although it belongs to Fthiotida, it lies much closer to Karpenisi, the capital of Evrytania.
Originally called Koryfes, the village took the name Mavrilo under Ottoman rule. One theory links it to “black matter”, or gunpowder, while another points to the dark fir forests around it.
Mavrilo also belongs to the Politochoria of Velouchi, whose people emigrated to Constantinople for a better life. Even so, the money they sent home kept their families and villages alive.
Today, a gunpowder mill near the square serves as a museum. During the 18th and 19th centuries, about 12 such mills operated in Mavrilo.
Visit as well the post-Byzantine church of Agios Dimitrios, from the early 18th century, with its old frescoes. Before entering the village, look out for the single-arch stone bridge.
Several trails then start from Mavrilo, including the most demanding route to the summit of Velouchi.
Agia Triada, gateway to the ski slopes
North of Tymfristos, at 800 metres, Agia Triada completes this tour of the Velouchi villages. Firs, chestnuts, walnuts, apple trees and running water surround its houses and tended gardens.
During winter, when the Velouchi Ski Centre operates, the village fills with visitors. Its paved square, with a centuries-old plane tree and a stone fountain, marks the start of walks through the lanes.
These lead up to the church of Agia Triada, built in 1850, where the view opens wide. Then a stop at the village taverna for local treats rounds off the day.
Among the Velouchi villages, Agia Triada also has the church of Agios Vissarionas, built in 1884, with its carved wooden templon. Beyond the village, you can reach a watermill, a wild trout farm and the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, built in 1760.
Finally, a lovely trail runs from the old fulling mill at Mantania to just before the monastery. It makes a fitting finale to a weekend among the Velouchi villages.
Source: travel.gr
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