Kopra in Thiruvananthapuram serves non-alcoholic cocktails inspired by Keralam

When mixologists Renjith Reji and Azad KV set out on their next venture, after their stint at The Ivory Club, they wanted to explore a drinking culture moving away from alcohol while tapping into Thiruvananthapuram’s budding cocktail scene. The result is Kopra, billed as India’s first non-alcoholic cocktail bar, tucked away in Nanthancode.

Set to the soundtrack of Boney M’s iconic ‘Rasputin’, Kopra’s scarlet-tinted interiors are filled with pop-culture references. A poster of Suriya-starrer Retro, a Fight Club poster featuring a rugged Brad Pitt and a portrait of Salvador Dalí with his signature moustache compete for attention.

A broad chalkboard covered in typography and sketches overlooks the counter, where bartenders get to work. Green vinyl couches and makeshift tables fashioned from wire drums reflect one of the space’s central philosophies: giving surplus a new purpose.

The same approach extends to the drinks menu, which draws on homely flavours and childhood memories. From Paadam, a nostalgic nod to pazhamkanji (a traditional Keralam breakfast made with leftover cooked rice), to Panakam, featuring honey and Indian oregano, the cocktails revisit familiar tastes.

The space is founded by Arun Kumar, with Athira J, Yeji Yesu, Renjith and Azad joining the team as co-founders. “When we were planning Kopra, this wasn’t the menu we had in mind. But we decided to start by introducing familiar flavours. Our drinks tap into nostalgia, bringing back forgotten tastes,” says Renjith, one of six recipients of the Handshake Grant at The India Bartender Show earlier this year. “Be it alcoholic or non-alcoholic cocktails, my focus is on understanding a healthy drinking culture and also to make it more accessible to people. I have had people reach out to me, complaining about the quality of cocktails they have had in the city, which has been disappointing. It also needs to be noted how the alcohol consumption is on a decline among the Gen-Z, who are more interested in leading a healthy life. They find time to hit the gym and some of them don’t even step into bars,” says Renjith, who has taken inspiration from Avinash Kapoli, one of the owners of SOKA.

We begin with a welcome drink: a shot of non-alcoholic kallu, made by fermenting coconut water with milk kefir, made from symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast. Mostly sweet, it finishes with a pronounced sourness that evokes the flavour of toddy without the alcohol.

The co-founders say they are often asked how non-alcoholic cocktails differ from mocktails. Renjith explains, “Mocktails are a mix of fruit juice, syrup and soda. For non-alcoholic cocktails, we use modern mixology techniques such as distillation, sous vide, fermentation, slow cooking and maceration. Mocktails were named because they imitate cocktails, but here we use the same techniques used to create regular cocktails.”

The lineup

Paadam, meaning paddy field in Malayalam, uses kanji vellam (rice water) fermented using milk kefir grains. The drink recreates the flavours of pazhamkanji, a homely breakfast of day-old rice mixed with curd, shallots, ginger, green chilli and curry leaves. Fermentation lends it a sourness reminiscent of curd, complemented by tangy raw mango and a hint of ginger. An ash gourd jam made with jaggery adds sweetness and resets the palate.

“This drink is about utilising surplus ingredients such as rice and ash gourd, which are readily available in the market. Jamming is a way of preserving produce without wasting it,” says Renjith.

Panakam draws on the familiar flavour of pani koorka (Indian oregano), traditionally given to children when they have a fever, and reimagines it through the lens of a Mint Julep. The classic drink has roots in European medicinal traditions and is typically made with spirits, mint, sugar and water. Kopra’s version uses a kombucha base and is served in a metal glass with a julep strainer, a perforated spoon used to hold back ice. Sweet at first, it leaves the tip of the tongue slightly numb, thanks to long peppers cooked sous vide with honey.

First Night draws inspiration from the wedding-night scenes that recur in Malayalam cinema, translating their familiar visual cues into a drink. It comes with a spherical jelly that bursts in the mouth with flavours of milk, banana and dates. An apple juice base is infused with jasmine and sandalwood, creating a mellow drink with floral, aromatic notes. The flowers and wood are macerated for 48 hours before being distilled, turning their aromas into flavour.

While most of the drinks are mild and flavourful, their side components could be improved. The ash gourd jam had a slightly grainy texture, and the spherical jelly in First Night left a peculiar aftertaste for a short time.

Other offerings include Kaanjipuram, a tonic-based drink inspired by Kanchipuram idli, and The Break Fast, a creamy beverage with the flavours of puttu and pazham. The menu also features fermented drinks such as kombucha, tepache and ginger bug.

What to eat

Kopra has a separate food menu with breakfast options centred on benne masala dosas. The non-vegetarian varieties include Chettinad chicken and Mangalore ghee roast, while the vegetarian options feature Maharashtrian thecha and ghee karam.

My favourite is the Mangalore chicken ghee roast benne masala dosa, with a well-balanced interplay of spice and sweetness. The diced chicken is cooked just right and pairs well with a dosa. The peppery Chettinad chicken is equally satisfying.

The dosas come with two chutneys, a mild yet rich vegetarian paya, a dessert made with mashed tapioca and jaggery, and a sweet drink inspired by the Panakam cocktail. The dessert deserves special mention for its pleasant texture and the earthy notes of jaggery.

The Chettinad chicken golgappas are filled with spiced chicken, a lemongrass-infused coconut milk sauce and thinly sliced coconut. The chicken’s heat works well with the sauce’s creamy, fragrant notes, while the coconut adds an interesting textural contrast. However, the golgappas can be a little too large to comfortably eat in one bite.

The Syrian pulled beef crostini features slow-cooked beef atop a tangy tomato relish, served on a lightly toasted slice of bread. The relish’s sweetness balances the meatiness, though a more toasted base would give the dish a better crunch.

Other options include kariveppila kozhi, Madras chickpea sundal, tawa-grilled prawns and fried thayir rice. Desserts include coco les treches, steeped in coconut milk and cream; Not Just Boli, a take on Thiruvananthapuram’s traditional boli; and Thamboolam.

Despite a few flaws in the execution of the dishes and cocktails, Kopra is a welcome addition to Thiruvananthapuram’s culinary landscape, with an evolving drinking culture.

Kopra is open from 7am to 11pm. Contact: +91 96336 67600