For many tourists, Memphis is a one-and-done kind of town: head to Graceland to see where Elvis Presley called home, and then move on.
It also has a crime rate that regularly sees it ranked as one of the most dangerous cities in America. But if you stay a little longer, you soon realise this is a special place.
Every street offers a glimpse into the past. Historic recording studios, where rock’n’roll legends laid down their greatest hits, are nestled between takeaways and supermarkets.
Family-owned restaurants date back to the 1900s, while the city’s grandest hotel opened its doors in 1860.
Most poignant of all, the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King was assassinated, still stands just outside the city centre — now the site of the National Civil Rights Museum.
Unlike so many US cities I’ve visited, Memphis is steeped in history, kept alive by a community determined not to forget. And it continues to grow.
The National Civil Rights Museum was recently expanded, a powerful addition to the exhibits, while The Shell, where Elvis Presley performed his first paid-for concert in 1954, also celebrated its 90th birthday with a line-up of events.
Next month, the new Memphis Art Museum finally opens, after moving from its original site, where it had stood since 1916.
That’s not to mention the thriving culinary scene, with Memphis recently gaining recognition as one of the best food cities in the US.
Memphis may not be polished, but it’s got soul, and it’ll be a place you remember long after your suitcase is unpacked.
Here’s what you should do when you get there.
Things to do
First things first, Graceland.
It’s gloriously kitsch, from the jungle room to the mirrored ceilings, and provides an education on The King in forensic detail.
As well as his rhinestone-studded jumpsuits, there’s everything from Lisa Marie’s cot, to an invoice for his swimming pool — although it glosses over some of the more problematic aspects of his life (like how Priscilla was just 14 when they met).
Tours for the mansion start from $85.
From there, the next logical stop is Sun Studios, where Elvis was discovered, along with legends including Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and B.B. King.
On a guided tour, you can stand in the same spot as the ‘Million Dollar Quartet’ and even take a picture with Elvis’ microphone.
It’s good value too, at just $20 a ticket.
For music that was released this side of the millennium, check out what’s on at the newly opened Grind City Amphitheatre, an outdoor stage on the site of Grind City Brewery Company and Taproom.
The 4,500-capacity venue is a cool place to listen to music and enjoy a brewed-on-site beer.
For nightlife, naturally, you’ll go to Beale Street, the heart of Memphis.
In 1977, neon-lit Beale was declared the ‘Home of Blues’ by an act of Congress, and today it’s a must-visit for live blues, rock ‘n’ roll, and soul.
Mr. Handy’s Blues Hall, B.B King’s Blues Club and Silly O’Sullivan’s are among the most popular stops on the street.
A few blocks away is Earnestine & Hazel’s, a dive bar with a long (and spooky) history, often dubbed ‘America’s most haunted bar’.
It was once a brothel and hotel where the likes of Tina Turner and Ray Charles stayed.
The barman relished in telling me there had been 13 confirmed deaths on the site. Apparently, he often hears voices and sees door handles rattle.
The jukebox is known to spring to life at random moments, playing songs strangely relevant to the present conversation.
Earnstine’s only serves two things: the Soul Burger (a beef burger with cheese, onions, pickles and ‘soul sauce’), and a bag of crisps. But that, of course, is part of its charm.
For something more wholesome, go to the Peabody Hotel, which dates back to the 1980s.
Every day at 11am, a flock of ducks that live in situ are marched along a red carpet to a fountain in the lobby, where they hang out for a bit before being escorted back to their living quarters at 5pm.
It’s a whole thing — there’s even a Duckmaster, who MCs the process for visitors.
Finally, if there’s only one thing you do in Memphis, it should be the National Civil Rights Museum, located within the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated.
The museum gives a comprehensive overview of the American Civil Rights Movement from slavery to present day.
The exhibits end in the same Lorraine Motel room, where MLK spent the final moments of his life.
It’s grim, powerful and a lesson in human resistance.
What to eat
The world’s best fried chicken, of course.
Gus’ World Famous Fried Chicken started life as a tavern back in the 1950s and now serves what GQ has deemed the finest on earth.
You’ll also want to try some classic Memphis barbecue, and Central BBQ is a local favourite.
Traditionally, barbecue in Memphis is all about pork (a sign on entry reads ‘we’re big on the pig’), with a dry rub (rather than wet sauce). And don’t forget to order the classic Southern banana pudding.
If you want a fancier sit-down meal, head to Itta Bena, on the third floor above the famous B.B. King’s Blues Club on Beale Street.
Come here very hungry. My Cajun pasta dish came loaded with a whole sausage, an entire chicken breast, and a handful of jumbo shrimp.
After dinner, you can skip the queues and listen to live music at B.B’s.
For more fine-dining, there’s Catherine & Mary’s, a Tuscan and Sicilian restaurant, with great cocktails.
And finally, be sure to have breakfast at Arcade, Elvis Presley’s favourite restaurant.
The King’s table is still reserved for him, with a plaque featuring his signature.
It also boasts the accolade of Memphis’ oldest restaurant, founded by a Greek family in 1919 who still run the show today.
It’s where I ate my favourite breakfast in Tennessee: chocolate mudslide pancakes.
For drinks, Old Dominick has been distilling whiskey in Tennessee since 1866. Book a spot in their Art of the Old Fashioned class to learn how to make the drink like a pro.
Not had enough whiskey? Quench your thirst at the Slider Inn with a Jamieson Slushie.
Exploring Tennessee
Most travellers heading to Memphis will want to explore more of Tennessee and spend a few days in Nashville, too.
The easiest way to make the three-hour journey between the two cities is on the Vonlane shuttle, which aims to offer passengers the flying experience on a coach.
Think reclining seats, meals, snacks and alcoholic drinks, all served by an attendant who is on-hand to make sure you get to your destination feeling relaxed and ready to explore.
One-way fares start from $132.
Where to stay
Located in a former factory, ARRIVE is a four-star hotel that manages to be both trendy and cosy. Think bare brick walls and big windows with plush soft furnishings.
As you enter, you’re greeted with Hustle & Dough, a cafe that wouldn’t look out of place in Shoreditch.
There’s also Bar Hustle for late-night drinks, and a fitness centre on the second floor for early risers.
You’re out of the way enough not to run into rowdy revellers on their way too and from Beale, but you’re across the road from the Civil Rights Museum, and in walking distance of Arcade, Slider Inn, Catherine & Mary’s and Earnestine & Hazel’s.
Basically, the location is great. Rooms start at $161 per night.
Kristina Beanland was a guest of Memphis Travel, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything — our reviews are 100% independent.
For more information visit the Memphis Travel website.
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