PARIS — As the spring 2027 showcases marched on for spring 2027, jewelry offered contrasting directions that seemed to mirror the dichotomy already seen in footwear and accessories for the season.
Some collections embraced playful scale, sculptural curves and a collectible angle, while others favored delicate proportions, clean lines and the possibility of everyday wear. From whipped-cream-inspired hoops and charm collections to polished metal, colored stones and pieces made for layering, there was no shortage of ways to integrate a precious touch.
Yet across these approaches, jewelers — and those joining the fray for the first time — seemed to take a new look at their fundamentals, refreshing familiar shapes through new materials, finishes and proportions.
Here, WWD rounds up a selection of jewelers that shined in Paris:
Annelise Michelson
While visiting the exhibition dedicated to Marie-Antoinette at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, jewelry designer Annelise Michelson found herself fascinated by the doomed French queen’s wardrobe and the celebratory impression it left.
“I felt that we really needed this lightness in our difficult, morose times,” she told WWD. “What I wanted to explore was that lightness, the joy, a touch of frivolity.”
And what feels more superfluous but always welcome than whipped cream? Reaching for plasticine, she cut and sculpted sinuous curlicues that swung between sensual and sharp. The result felt playful rather than precious with earrings and ball-like rings that appeared like whipped cream swirls, while other pieces translated the period’s curls and flourishes into contemporary jewelry.
While the more substantial sizes caught editors’ eyes first, Michelson said she is also working on scaling them down for a comfortable daily option.
Bibi van der Velden
Can’t choose between the Dutch jeweler’s motifs? Hesitate no more with her “Bibi’s Bestiary” charm collection, which offered her crocodiles, scarabs and more to come in a minute and highly collectible direction. She also promised a new series of Christmas Charms very soon.
Her showcase at Chateau Voltaire was also an opportunity to discover her Scarab Pinky Rings, playing on the symbolism of signet rings and 17th-century Dutch portraiture. Formally introduced here, the five pinky-sized takes on van der Velden’s recognizable motif were already proving to be popular.
Déhanche
After carving a niche with its modernist take on belts — foreseeing an appetite for such a category that peaked this season on the catwalks — Déhanche extended its language of adornment beyond the waist with a collection of sculptural jewelry. In sync with her penchant for hardware, movement and sensuality, founder Erin Webb explored the relationship between jewelry and the body by playing with enveloping or slender silhouettes, as seen in the Laurent earrings, and opting for sensual curves and twirls, like the ones defining the statement chokers included in the Koru line. Yet the highlight was the chained and polished metal construction of the Hollyhock necklace, available in both gold and silver options and poised to elevate even the simplest outfits.
By Pariah
With “Smoke and Light,” the British jewelry brand founded by Sophie Howard was all about encounters with light. Both its gemstone palette but also the associations created with them reflected that idea.
Smoky quartz and champagne diamonds brought a warm earthy shine while moonstone and pearl played on how inner properties and surface softened glow. Blackened gold added contrast, as seen on the softly octagonal Reverie earrings. On the Globe Pendant, a polished sphere created a mesmerizing play of light, while moonstones lived up to their namesake with their milky fire. Bisected by a band of gold and diamonds, a leaf-shaped mossy agate figured a forest traversed by sunshine.
Eddie Borgo
As his namesake brand is slowly approaching its 20th anniversary in two years, Eddie Borgo started to look back at the journey so far to celebrate the architectural codes and material exploration that have always defined his New York-based label’s polished aesthetic and its distinctive mix of fine jewelry, industrial hardware, architecture and subculture references.
For one, the signature “Pyramid” collection originally inspired by New York’s Art Deco buildings was softened and enlarged in its silhouettes, as well as reinterpreted with the integration of hand-carved travertine or polished black obsidian stone for a surprising and charming effect. In the same vein, the “Padlock” collection, originally inspired by the city’s subcultural scene, evolved in the smoother MoonLock line, shifting the perception of its distinctive lock element and overall utility appeal by rounding out hard edges in favor of elliptical shapes and cabochon inlays of blue or red sandstones.
Jacques Marie Mage
If you think Jacques Marie Mage’s scope is restricted only to high-end eyewear, think twice. The brand has included jewelry as part of “Bunker 77 by JMM,” its latest limited-edition collection encompassing handcrafted eyewear and accessories inspired by the radical life of Adolph Bernard “Bunker” Spreckels 3rd, a singular figure of ’70s surf culture and reluctant heir to an American dynasty.
“Heir to the Spreckels sugar empire and stepson to Clark Gable, Bunker could’ve had a life of comfort, access, and luxury. Instead, he chose something wildly different. He chose a path of chaos and creativity. He burned bright and fast, and became a myth, a legend,” said the brand’s founder and creative director Jérôme Mage.
Mage aimed to instill Bunker’s essence and appetite for speed, danger, beauty, rebellion and reinvention in a range that, in addition to four limited-edition eyewear designs, included jewelry styles spanning from the Jeffreys pendants to the Latigo signet ring featuring a “Calavera” cameo inspired by Bunker’s personal skull-and-bones letterhead. It is available in both sterling silver and an 18-karat yellow gold version set with responsibly sourced white pave diamonds.
“When I first began thinking about designing this collection, it wasn’t just about style or surf or the ‘70s,” Mage said. “It was about what Bunker represented. He became a kind of symbol for me — a muse, but also a mirror. Because to truly understand him, you have to wrestle with your own relationship to freedom, to rebellion, and to the roles we’re all expected to play.”
Kinraden
Go big or go home? Not for Danish jewelry brand Kinraden, which presented “All Things Tiny,” a more delicate expression for three of its longstanding collections. For curvaceous Stilos, the smaller proportions telegraphed a neo-Cuban bracelet.
The sizable Oxygen design became a not-quite-dainty chain, while a single motif created a gleaming loop on the earlobe. Meanwhile, the natural elements that were explored in the Levitas range returned here in smaller but no less charming versions of themselves, with a hairpin and a brooch that looked like a silver leaf perched where it landed.
But make no mistake: where they lacked in size, these designs made up for layering options.
These developments come as the 12-year-old Danish brand founded by architect-turned-jeweler Sarah Emilie Müllertz bolstered the company’s leadership over the summer. In August, Ditte Søndergaard Bihorac took over as chief executive officer from Christina Neustrup, who became brand director, in charge of its strategic and creative direction.
Oxblood
Freshly launched in the summer, Dr. Woo and Giulia Lucchi’s Oxblood landed in Paris at the Hotel Costes’ topmost suite. Sandwiched between the suite’s Eiffel Tower and Sacré-Cœur views, the duo unfurled their entire universe, from home linens and dainty porcelain cups to its limited-edition clothing and lingerie.
Jewelry, of course, took pride of place in the displays, along with a master engraver who was demonstrating personalization on signet rings, either sterling silver or gold with a hidden lucky charm that could so be engraved. Spider-adorned jewels were plentiful in the displays, but there were also other examples that were just as attractive. There were pendants and pearls tattooed with Woo’s delicate cosmological Constellations schematics and a leafy rose stem that curled around the neck as an open necklace.
Pen Mané
Pen Mané’s exploration of the Wild Coast continued, now fully with natural diamonds and 18-karat gold. The main direction Vincent Guy-Raffin and Calvin Wang pushed into was pendants. In addition to an ovoid locket that revealed its secret compartment at the back, there were modular versions that will serve as a jumping point for future developments.
Also building on their aesthetic inspired by the Breton coast’s rocky outline were asymmetric earrings. Its imposition Crash Shield earrings took smaller, almost huggie-like proportions, for a more quotidian take on their play on volume.
A fresh take were sphere earrings, where options included pairings of one pavé side with a companion featuring a 1-carat pear-cut diamond, a 1.5-carat cushion or an Asscher-cut gem of a similar size.
High-polish was offered on selected styles, enhancing the contrast that telegraphed the brand’s “perfectly imperfect” narrative.
Shihara
All-gold may be the beginning of Yuta Ishihara’s first label, but he now has a taste for diamonds. Don’t expect anything as pedestrian as a classic brilliant cut for his stones, however.
In line with his knack for harmoniously engineered style, portrait-cut gems had his favor, each receiving a setting that amplified its shape. A 2-carat elongated emerald cut and a similarly sized oblong diamond were among the most impressive specimens but a ring that rose from the finger to follow its graduated line of stones was equally striking.
Huggie-style earrings that followed the same design looked like Tinkerbell-sized versions, looking delightful.
Yutai
In the next room, Ishihara continued to develop his color stories under the Yutai name. Bringing a new spin to the season were tourmalines, particularly in pastel colors that joined his repertoire in pearl-based designs.
It brought a new dimension to the “20 Knot” choker, part of his Modular series, created as a solution to build necklaces with a varying number of pearl strings. A graphic gold connecting piece of hardware is how a single string seems to split into two, three or more strands in the same jewel.
– with contributions from Sandra Salibian