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Frequently asked questions
What causes dark spots?
A dark spot is an area of extra pigment in the skin, according to Dr. Castilla. These can appear in various forms, including age spots, sun spots, and melasma, which can be caused by hormonal changes (such as pregnancy or menopause). And though they often fade in time, skin-care products like dark-spot correctors can speed up the process and even out your skin tone. Ingredients like prescription hydroquinone, retinol and other proven brighteners accelerate skin resurfacing and minimize pigment, according to Rachel Nazarian, MD, board-certified dermatologist based in NYC.
What ingredients should you look for in a dark-spot corrector?
Dark-spot correctors help break down existing hyperpigmentation and can prevent dark spots from forming by inhibiting melanin transfer to skin cells, says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. But it all comes down to the ingredients that help you get there.
Dermatologists say to look for alpha hydroxy acids (or AHAs) such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, and malic acid; retinol; vitamin C; and niacinamide. Dr. Engelman also recommends kojic acid, which is derived from fermented rice, for newer dark spots and acne scars. Here’s a breakdown of what they do
AHAs/BHAs/PHAs: “AHAs like glycolic acid or lactic acid help speed up cell turnover and fade surface-level pigmentation, while BHAs like salicylic acid are especially helpful for acne-related dark spots,” says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare. Both should be used in moderation, as they may irritate sensitive skin. PHAs, also known as poly-hydroxy-acids, also exfoliate and slough off dead skin, but with a smaller molecule. This allows penetration to be gentler and less irritating, so they are recommended if you have a sensitive skin type.
Retinol: “Retinol, also known as vitamin A, can help fade hyperpigmentation marks by stimulating cell turnover, so regular use can help fade dark spots over time and has many benefits for the appearance, health, and function of skin overall,” says Dr. Engelman. Since retinol can be irritating and drying, the key is to build up your tolerance. Start with applying it once a week, then twice a week, and eventually every other day until your skin tolerates it for everyday use.
Vitamin C: “Vitamin C works to reduce melanin production but also serves as an antioxidant to neutralize the free radicals that trigger production after sun exposure or trauma,” says Brooke Jeffy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. This is why you may find vitamin C as an ingredient in some dark spot correctors.
According to Hope Mitchell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Mitchell Dermatology, tranexamic acid, cysteamine, azelaic acid, soy, and arbutin are also effective options for lightening dark spots. “These ingredients will inhibit melanin production and accelerate skin cell turnover, which helps fade pigmentation over time,” she says. Hydroquinone can also be effective for lightening dark spots, but derms recommend proceeding with caution. “This ingredient is not safe for those with deeper skin tones, and in some cases, it can actually exacerbate hyperpigmentation in individuals with darker skin,” says Dr. Engelman.
How to incorporate dark-spot correctors into your routine
The dermatologists we spoke with recommend using dark-spot correctors with vitamin C, acids (AHAs, azelaic acid, ferulic acid), and alpha arbutin in the morning; use retinol in the evening, as it can make skin extra sensitive to the sun. And remember: You should avoid using products like retinol and vitamin C serum simultaneously; doing so is likely to cause irritation, says Dr. Castilla. Consistency is key, and sunscreen is your most important product for protecting the skin from further hyperpigmentation, according to Dr. Mitchell.
What fades dark spots the fastest? How long can it take?
According to Dr. Marmur, most dark spots take 8 to 12 weeks to noticeably fade with consistent treatment. “Deeper or older hyperpigmentation can take several months, and sun exposure can significantly slow progress, which is why using a daily SPF is essential,” she says.
If you’re looking for the fastest results, a combination approach is usually best. “Dermatologists often pair prescription-strength pigment inhibitors such as hydroquinone, retinoids, tranexamic acid, or cysteamine with diligent sunscreen use and, when appropriate, in-office treatments like chemical peels or lasers,” says Dr. Rambhia. Regardless of treatment approach, the dermatologists say that daily broad-spectrum sunscreen application is non- negotiable. “Without consistent sun protection, dark spots can persist, worsen, or recur, making it much harder to achieve and maintain results,” Dr. Rambhia says.
Are dark spots different than age spots?
“There are many types of dark spots that occur on the skin,” says Dr. Jeffy. Sun spots, or lentigines, are often called age spots, while other dark spots might be caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be classified as freckles, melasma, and seborrheic keratoses, she explains. All can be classified as dark spots, though some are particularly age-related.
How to treat dark spots on the face and body
There are many different ways to remove dark spots on the face: laser treatments, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and dark-spot correctors. The latter is most accessible both from a convenience and a cost perspective, since you can use them daily without having to get a prescription or go to a doctor’s office.
If you’re looking to correct dark spots on the body, look for retinol-based body lotions and creams. Check the ingredient list for vitamin C, which brightens, and niacinamide, which offers anti-inflammatory and antiaging benefits. “And make sure to exfoliate regularly to remove dead skin cells,” says Dr. Mitchell. As always, sunscreen is critical for both the face and body to prevent further darkening.
What you should avoid mixing with dark spot correctors
“My biggest concern when using a dark spot corrector is stacking too many irritating ingredients,” says Kseniya Kobets, MD, a Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. She notes that a dark spot corrector usually already contains an exfoliating acid or vitamin A (retinol) derivative, so incorporating a separate retinoid, acid toner, scrub, or peel in your routine can be too much. “More redness and peeling don’t mean you’re getting better results, especially with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, where inflammation can create more pigment,” she says. Stick to pairing dark spot correctors with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, as well as rich moisturizers to help soothe and calm skin.
How we evaluated dark spot correctors
We began by evaluating ingredients backed by dermatologists. Then Glamour editors and contributors with a variety of skin types—including mature, acne-prone, dry, and sensitive—tested dark-spot correctors over a series of weeks to months. Some editors have been using these products for years.
We assessed texture, scent, absorption, and how skin felt after application. We paid close attention to sun spots, discoloration, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation after three weeks of use, then noted whether results continued with consistent use. The ones that made it to this list got our editors’ approval and are ones we continue to use in our daily skin care routines.
Meet the experts
- Carmen Castilla, MD, board-certified NYC-based dermatologist
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group
- Dendy Engelman, MD, board-certified NYC-based dermatologist
- Hope Mitchell, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Mitchell Dermatology
- Brooke Jeffy MD, board-certified dermatologist based in Arizona
- Ellen Marmur, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare
- Pooja Rambhia, MD, board-certified dermatologist based in New Jersey
- Kristina Collins, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Austin Skin in Austin
- Kseniya Kobets, MD, a Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care