Travel to the Austrian Alps to experience Sauna Aufguss, Europe’s new wellness experience
Sitting shyly in my grey towel, I feel like the odd one out among a group of mostly naked German and Austrian sauna-goers.
Austrian rock music blares as our “sauna masters”, dressed in themed outfits, dance around the room, dramatically twirling their towels to fan waves of hot steam towards our faces.
The air fills with the delicious scents of orange and rosemary as oil-infused ice sizzles on the hot sauna rocks, releasing fragrant clouds of heat.
This is my first Sauna Aufguss experience: a guided, multisensory sauna ritual whose name derives from the German word for “infusion” or “pouring”. Rooted in German-speaking sauna culture, the practice is gaining popularity at spas across Europe.
An Aufguss session typically lasts 10 to 15 minutes and unfolds in three rounds, during which the sauna masters place balls of flavoured ice on the hot rocks before using elaborate towel movements to circulate the fragrant, humid heat around the room.
Our sauna masters are Janine Kavallar and Andi Gyurcsik, a couple who radiate fun and positive energy. They host these sessions three times a day at Hotel Lürzerhof, an alpine resort just outside Salzburg, where I spend a few days indulging in some much-needed relaxation and outdoor adventure.
After 12 sweaty minutes in the sauna, there’s no choice but to surrender to tradition, strip off and plunge naked into the hotel’s outdoor cold plunge pool, surrounded by evergreen trees and a stunning mountain backdrop.
The cold water makes me gasp at first, but after the intense heat of the sauna, it feels wonderfully refreshing. As I climb out, however, my self-consciousness returns. I scramble for my towel, keen to minimise the time I spend on display. I’m hoping a few days here help me loosen up and leave some of my Irish inhibitions behind.
There’s no doubt that Hotel Lürzerhof is a place to unwind. This 68-room, family-run wellness resort, owned by the Habersatter family for generations, has recently undergone a €10 million (£8.5 million) expansion. The investment includes a new adults-only spa level, complete with a spectacular 20-metre cantilevered rooftop infinity pool overlooking the surrounding mountains.
Set in Untertauern, around an hour’s drive from Salzburg, the hotel is the kind of place where I could happily spend my entire stay without stepping beyond its doors, indulging in its extensive spa facilities.
But for those who prefer their relaxation with a little adventure, the surrounding alpine landscape offers plenty of opportunities to get outdoors, from hiking to waterfalls and hiring an e-bike from the hotel for a leisurely ride through the mountains to exploring the nearby resort of Obertauern, with its hiking trails in summer and ski slopes in winter.
Visiting in autumn, well before the ski season gets underway at the end of November, I make the most of the shoulder-season alpine scenery, swapping skis for hiking boots and taking a refreshing dip in a crystal-clear mountain lake.
Our first outdoor excursion is a hike to the nearby Johannes Waterfall, a spectacular 60-metre cascade tucked into the Alps.
Along the way, my group and I spot cattle roaming freely across the alpine pastures, their cowbells clanging as they graze. It’s an idyllic scene, adding a touch of traditional alpine charm to our mountain adventure.
We also enjoy a day trip to Obertauern, one of Austria’s snowiest ski resorts in winter. Outside the ski season, its mountain trails offer excellent hiking opportunities, as well as the chance to spot marmots, the large ground-dwelling rodents that hibernate through the winter months.
A cable car ride up Glöcknerin Peak rewards us with breathtaking panoramic views and easy access to the unspoilt Wildsee mountain lake, where we can’t resist taking a refreshing dip.
Swimming in crystal-clear waters surrounded by mountains is the kind of core memory I’ll revisit the next time I’m stressed and sweaty on an overcrowded train back home.
Austrian cuisine feels like the ultimate comfort food. Whether tucking into a delicious slice of apfelstrudel with vanilla sauce after a hike or enjoying a hearty wiener schnitzel washed down with a cold beer, it’s the kind of food that really hits the spot after a day in the mountain air.
While we make the most of the outdoor adventures on offer, there’s still plenty of time to unwind and immerse ourselves in the hotel’s spa culture.
During my stay, I also indulge in one of Hotel Lürzerhof’s signature spa treatments – the Alpine Calm Ritual – involving warm Alpine herbal compresses being gently applied to my upper body and face, and it’s pure bliss. As the therapist moves the heavenly scented compresses across my skin, I feel my muscles gradually relax and the tension melt away from my shoulders and back.
In keeping with the hotel’s relaxed spa culture, guests are free to wander around in their robes, even wearing them to enjoy the lunch buffet. It’s all part of the laid-back approach to wellness, where comfort comes first and there’s little need to rush back into everyday clothes.
I also make the most of the resort’s extensive pool and sauna facilities, unwinding in the saunas of various temperatures, before taking a leisurely dip in the spectacular rooftop infinity pool, where the mountain views provide the perfect backdrop for more relaxation.
But the activity I keep coming back to is the evening Sauna Aufguss, which I attended four times. With each session, my inhibitions begin to ease, although I’m still not quite ready to ditch my towel. Slowly but surely, however, I find myself embracing the local sauna culture.
At one session, someone celebrating their birthday is invited to dance naked in front of the other guests. With my own birthday falling the following day, I’m horrified at the prospect, but manage to escape such a celebration.
By the time we leave, I’m hugging Janine and Andi, our exuberant sauna masters, and saying a fond farewell to all my new naked friends. I’m not sure I leave with all my inhibitions thrown out of the window, but the experience certainly helps me loosen up and rethink my attitude towards body confidence – I leave with a more open mind and a little less body shame.
How to plan your trip
Stays at Hotel Lürzerhof start from €217 per person per night based on two sharing on a full-board basis (luerzerhof.at)
For guided on-mountain activities visit Obertauern Tourist Office (obertauern.com)
British Airways (britishairways.com) flies from London Gatwick to Salzburg with flights starting at £116 return.