Powder soft, dazzling white sand sifted through my toes as I looked out at a perfect symphony of blues; a turquoise and azure ocean so clear, it gave crystal a run for its money.
The coastline I’d landed on has every hallmark of the Maldives, with every beach feeling as though you’ve stepped into a screensaver. Yet unlike the Maldives, this beach is not an 11-hour flight plus a sea plane (and five timezones) away. Instead, it’s a mere five hours and, remarkably, it’s right on the Mediterranean.
This is Egypt’s Marassi North Coast, a luxurious beach resort comprising 11 hotels and a new, surprising destination to add to the radar of those seeking winter sunshine. And while temperatures might not quite reach Maldivian highs of 30 degrees in our winter months, they usually hover around a very respectable early 20 degrees; perfect for lounging by the pool or on the beach – although you may need a jumper or jacket as night falls.
Egypt’s best-kept secret: the playground of the wealthy
The resort is a 90-minute transfer from Alexandria, but we opted to stop in Cairo first – just three hours away. Here, we spent a whirlwind day visiting the Pyramids of Giza and the incredible Great Egyptian Museum. Every local we spoke to was surprised to learn that – as a bunch of Brits abroad – we were not heading on to the popular Red Sea destinations of Sharmel Sheik or Hurghada, but rather to the Marassi North Coast.
This section of coast has traditionally been the preserve of locals – especially Cairenes seeking to escape the hectic city to relax on beaches that are not heaving with foreign tourists. In short, it’s the wealthy locals' best-kept secret.
What is so special about Marassi?
Regarded as the flagship resort of Egypt’s Mediterranean coastline, located near the city of El Alamein and overlooking the stunning Sidi Abdel Rahman Bay, Marassi is a destination that is almost entirely self-contained. Set along 6.5km of the coast, it’s easy to hop from destination to destination via exclusive golf buggies and you can even hire convertible turquoise Mini Coopers to get around.
I found it to be reminiscent of the all-inclusive luxury resorts you’d find in the Middle East, such as Dubai, only much less well-known. Marassi also leaves you spoiled for choice when it comes to activities, from an 18-hole golf course to a marina and yacht club with luxury shopping boutiques; then there’s a water park, The Hub and a giant open-air youth club with bowling alleys and arcades.
I had a particularly memorable afternoon crafting beach baskets and straw hats, and enjoyed a golf lesson at Address Marassi Golf Resort, which had a very laidback, country club vibe that made me feel as thought I was in southern California.
Egypt meets LA
Indeed, I couldn’t stop commenting on how much it felt like The Beverly Hills Hotel as I wandered the resort’s oldest and most famous hotel and beach club, The Al Alamein. This historic hotel – which has clearly taken some design inspiration from Los Angeles’ famous “Pink Palace” – was originally built in 1960 (it underwent a renovation in 2018) and became renowned for hosting scores of Egyptian movie stars. Their famous faces, captured in black and white photographs, now adorn the walls.
Food worth travelling for
Perhaps my favourite thing about Marassi was the amazing array of restaurants. Such is the resort's popularity with the locals that General Manager, Nicolas Khairallah, told me that most of the restaurants are still working on their menus to cater to Western palates. That means, thankfully, that you won’t find laminated menus with fish and chips or full English breakfasts, but rather local fayre: think fresh fish, grilled meats, endless salads, hummus and baba ganoush. Essentially the best of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern eating. Egyptian wines such as Jardin du Nil and Omar Khayyam also feature and I found both exceedingly quaffable.
An exception to the local flavour is the new Asian restaurant, SoCal at the Vida Marina Resort. It may not be Egyptian cuisine, but it is still superb sushi.
There are, of course, also plentiful spa facilities dotted about the resort. After a whirlwind adventure around Cairo, I opted to slow things down and indulged in a soul and body-nourishing hour-long massage at the newly opened Palace Beach Resort.
Old meets new
Interiors-wise, Palace Beach is a wonderful mixture of grand, palatial, Middle Eastern-style design with sleek, contemporary coastal vibes. The stunning lobby with marbled floors and statement chandeliers contrasts with the elegant, modern rooms which feel airy and calming with high ceilings and sea views. My room had a terrace that opened straight into the gorgeous gardens while there were also three large outdoor swimming pools overlooking the sea.
A world away from Cairo
Marassi North Coast is the perfect place to recover from the wonders of busy Cairo. Which, for those seeking to immerse themselves in the history of this incredible, ancient country and visit one the Pyramids of Giza, is a must-visit.
My fleeting visit to the capital included a two-night stay at the Four Seasons Cairo at the First Residence. Set on the banks of the Nile, I was overawed when I pulled back my curtains on the first morning to see the ancient pyramids in the distance.
The luxury hotel, which drips in Egyptian grandeur (and also serves, in my opinion, one of the most excellent breakfast buffets), is set on the Nile. It is a mere 20-minute drive from the Pyramids and the nearby world-class Great Egyptian Museum (GEM), which is currently one of the most talked about museums in the world. Seeing Tutankhamun’s tomb transported me straight back to school projects and I was left awe-struck at the detail of it.
A star-worthy tour guide
If you’re new to the city, it would take extensive planning and multiple days to see everything in it. To make things easier, I opted for a tour guide. Tarek Sarhan, who also recently guided Sir Mick Jagger, gave the most incredibly informative tour of both sites. It was definitely an investment I’d recommend making.
© Grand Egyptian Museum
And as for the pyramids? Just wow. It’s incredible to think that the world’s leading academics on Egyptology have still not been able to decipher precisely how humans built them over 4,500 years ago. Locals say of them that “the mystery is the gift’’. But I’d argue that that goes beyond the city – Egypt itself is an endlessly surprising gift.
How to book it: Double rooms at the Palace Beach Resort at Marassi start from £876; at the Four Seasons First Residence Cairo from £315. If you want something more tailored, you can discover Egypt with Emeco (+20 2 25749360); offering expert-led tours of the pyramids of Giza and the Grand Egyptian Museum.
More information: Marassi
Emily was a guest of Marassi Palace Beach Resort and the Four Seasons. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.