‘Otherworldly fantasy land’: Why this luxury spa lunch is worth springing for

There was something oddly familiar about dining at Thyme, the airy restaurant at Alba hot springs on the Mornington Peninsula. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it, until I remembered the 1991 movie Defending Your Life, written and directed by Albert Brooks (who also stars alongside Meryl Streep). The story takes place in a spa-like purgatory where the recently deceased must stand trial to decide whether they’re evolved enough to move on to the next plane of existence.

There are two running gags in Defending Your Life: one is that everyone must spend their time in this purgatory wearing matching white robes; the other is that all the food is delicious, and calorie-free. While sitting at Thyme among the other customers, all of us dressed in matching white robes and eating food that, at least in some senses, has the hallmarks of virtue without the drabness of traditional health food, I felt as though I’d been transported to that otherworldly fantasy land. One in which the pleasure of eating might somehow be freed from our usual concerns about sartorial expression or overindulgence.

Alba, opened in 2022, has positioned itself as the luxury bathing option in comparison to Peninsula Hot Springs, which sit just across the road in the peninsula’s hinterland. Part of that luxury is defined by Thyme, a full-service restaurant with a cocktail program and wine list and food that can take you from breakfast through dinner.

Originally, Thyme’s menu was written by consulting chef Karen Martini and executed by head chef Mario Di Natale, but both recently parted ways with Alba and Thyme. New head chef Michael Demagistris is still cooking some of Martini’s recipes, but the menu is evolving. Demagistris was most recently the chef at Max’s Restaurant in Red Hill, and has also worked at Polperro Winery and Sorrento Golf Club.

There are a number of influences on this menu: it’s kind of Asian fusion-y and kind of Australian, but the thing that interests me the most is its contemporary take on the idea of spa food. What do you want to eat and drink in a setting that is supposed to be, at its core, an exercise in wellness and self-care? Thyme seeks to provide a modern answer.

It was a wonderful thing to arrive for an early lunch, swan around the hot springs for a few hours, then return to Thyme for a cheese plate and dessert.

(As an aside, spa food has a long and fascinating history, which includes many dubious ideas about eating, relaxation and health, and involves many infamous weirdos including the Kellogg brothers, who created their eponymous cereal products in part to keep patients at their spa/sanatorium from giving in to sexual urges. Look it up!)

With a few exceptions, the unifying quality of Thyme’s menu is a certain lightness, even in dishes like bolognese, in which the Sichuan-style sauce is made from tofu and shiitake mushrooms and the noodles are wide, flat rye udon. It’s one of the smartest and most satisfying vegan dishes I’ve had in yonks, surprising in all the best ways.

More predictable perhaps is a grain bowl, in this case red rice topped with tataki ocean trout, kohlrabi kimchi, avocado and a soft egg. But this too managed to feel opulent rather than ascetic, the lushness of the fish and other components making for the perfect light-ish lunch that won’t make you feel leaden when you go and lounge in hot mineral water.

I was particularly taken with a dish a few weeks back that appears to have gone from the menu, but I think it’s still worth mentioning because it shows the kind of cleverness at play here. Seared scallops were paired with custard-like silken tofu, then garnished with crisp okra and a sweet corn sauce. It felt healthy, but tasted like pure sunshine and sweet ocean.

Many of the cocktails take the same approach: light and fresh and herb-forward, although you can also get a very good espresso martini if the sauna has you lagging.

The wine list is 100 per cent local with the exception of one bottle (a champagne), and more thought has gone into it than simply picking nearby vineyards – it’s a lovely overview of some of the peninsula’s best producers.

Not everything is health conscious, as evidenced by an extremely rich braised beef short-rib, and a fantastic dark chocolate mousse with chilli-caramel sauce and sesame brittle. It was a wonderful thing to arrive for an early lunch, swan around the hot springs for a few hours, then return to Thyme for a cheese plate and dessert before driving home.

Alba is significantly more expensive than the hot springs across the road (though towels and robes are included in the base price here). Thyme is not for bargain-hunters, either. That grain bowl costs nearly $50; a delicious but small piece of prawn toast with a single tiger prawn on top is $33. But this is a place for indulgence. For a special occasion, an activity with an out-of-town visitor, or just a well-earned act of self-love, Thyme helps to make Alba a true destination.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.