In Kolkata, the festive air usually belongs to the beat of dhaak and grand Durga Puja pandals. But every community brings its own radiant charm to the season. This festive season, restaurateur Swaminathan and Mangalam Ramani opened their doors to My Kolkata and took us through Navratri celebrations through the ancient and beautifully preserved south Indian tradition of Golu.
The Golu display
Moving to Kolkata in 1995 after their marriage, the Ramanis have long considered the city their home. Mangalam Ramani, who works at an MNC, says, “Kolkata has been our karmabhoomi. Our jobs, our business, kids, home, everything happened through Maa Kali’s grace. So, Kolkata has a special place for us. But while we are here, we keep up our Tamil traditions, and one being the Navratri Golu.”
Central to their celebration is the Golu, a grand multi-tiered display of dolls that symbolises the elevation of the human soul.
“Navratri is a celebration of feminine energy. We do this immediately after the Mahalaya Amavasya, the nine days following Mahalaya. We celebrate all nine days. So the Golu is actually a personification of the universe,” explained Mangalam.
Mangalam Ramani sets up the Golu every year at their home
The display rests on stepped platforms called padis, always set up in odd numbers such as three, five, seven, nine, or eleven. “It is from material living to elevation to divine realms,” said Mangalam.
The earthly forms are placed on the first lower step, including animals, village scenes, and everyday rural life, such as a vegetable vendor or farmers ploughing fields. As the steps ascend, one sees musicians, rishis, and demigods, until the top tiers honour the supreme deities. “These dolls are basically yantras. They actually translate the power of Maa Durga into the household where we do this puja,” said Mangalam.
In Tamil tradition, Navratri honours womanhood. Friends and family gather to sing, dance, and exchange gifts. Every morning and evening, prayers are offered. The first three days honour Goddess Durga, the next three are for Goddess Lakshmi, and the final three are devoted to Goddess Saraswati. This then culminates in Ayudha Puja, a moment of thanksgiving for the tools and instruments that sustain daily living.
No Golu visit is complete without festive hospitality, with the lady of the house welcoming guests with a gentle shower of rose water, offering aromatic sandalwood and vermillion. Visitors are then served wholesome, pure sattvic delicacies. Daily offerings centre on sundal, a comforting preparation of legumes gently steamed and tempered with fresh coconut and curry leaves, alongside homemade sweets and savouries.
The Ramanis with son Akshay
For Swaminathan Ramani, founder-director of 6 Ballygunge Place and Ramani, his role is supporting his wife’s artistic vision.
“Oh, my contribution is to buy the steps!” joked Swaminathan. “Earlier they were 5; I made them 7. Got the lighting done, got the decorator to come, and gave them a brief. But yes, my wife did the entire work.”
The family even carries this tradition to their restaurant Ramani with a five-step Golu, seamlessly blending their Tamil heritage with the festive spirit of their city.