Two new denim books are hitting the market this fall, offering guidance on design, washes and finishing process.
This month Endrime, the U.K.-based denim creative agency and brand that spans design consultancy, education and publishing, will release “Born to Fade–Raw to Washed Denim” and “How to Make a Pair of Selvedge Jeans.”
The latter provides a detailed step-by-step guide on how to make a pair of jeans on industrial and domestic sewing machines. Written and illustrated by Endrime co-founder Mohsin Sajid, the 120-page book focuses on making a 5-pocket selvedge Endrime jean—a fit based on a 1937 jean. The jean is enhanced with a continuous one-piece fly dating to 1877 and is made with a single-needle construction, with no serger or overlock method.
Endrime said this construction method is the “benchmark in premium denim, now recorded for preservation and denim education.”
Sajid, a denim lecturer and professor for more than 20 years, described the book as “magnum opus.”
“Nothing like this type of book has ever been created before in this premium way of construction. Most of this knowledge is gatekept,” he said.
In November, Endrime will publish “Born to Fade–Raw to Washed Denim,” a 600-page book that includes full wash recipes with photos, processes and videos for each wash. It was written by Zennure Danışman, a denim wash and marketing expert.
It includes the process for 75 unique denim washes, spanning vintage and modern denim finishes, coatings, garment dye and stone washing. The book covers the most common washing treatments found in the denim industry today like laser and ozone. Readers will also learn about industrial methods of washing and machinery and about key chemicals.
The book aims to fill a knowledge gap in the industry. Sajid said denim finishing is a subject that’s not covered in any university or fashion course. Designers typically must learn about it on the job.
“Denim washing and finishing is a specialist subject, which can be overwhelming for many and a daunting, intimidating task for many young and established designers,” he said. “This book will serve as a guide and resource for denim designers and beginners in the denim industry.
Danışman compared the wash recipes to a cookbook. “In a way, we are cooking in the laundry; our ingredients are water, chemistry, air, heat, machines, fabric, time, and a lot of human instinct,” she said.
The “first-of-its-kind” book is supported by leading companies in the denim industry, including Tonello, Officina39, Howa, Garmon, Kaiser Tekstil, Artistic Milliners, Cone Denim, Indigo Textiles, Kaihara Denim, Orta, HMS, CleanKore, and The CC. All garments in the book were made by Ereks Blue Matters.