There’s plenty to love about a bob, from its flattering shape to that lovely, freshly cut swing. But if your hair is looking finer or feeling less around the menopause, choosing the right version can make all the difference.
‘Understanding how your hair changes during perimenopause and menopause is really important,’ says A-list hairdresser Gustav Fouche. ‘Hair can become finer, more fragile, drier and frizzier, so we need to reconsider how we colour it, how we use heat and which haircut will help it look its best.’
If you’ve been toying with going shorter, there’s good reason to explore your options. ‘For some women, maintaining longer hair becomes more difficult,’ says Gustav. ‘A shorter cut can help the ends look fuller.’
Going shorter can work wonders for fine, mature hair
For this, Gustav has two bob styles in particular on his radar. ‘The blunt bob and the collarbone lob can both be fantastic choices for fine menopausal hair,’ he tells us. ‘A blunt bob can create a strong, modern look with fuller-looking ends, while a collarbone lob offers softness, movement and more length to play with.’
Before you save that inspiration picture for your next salon appointment, though, there’s one thing he wants you to keep in mind. ‘However, I wouldn’t say that any two haircuts always work for everyone. The important thing is to personalise the cut. I look at where the hair is thickest, where it is finer and how the shape will complement the client’s face.’
The blunt bob
What is it? ‘A blunt bob has a strong, defined baseline, with the hair cut predominantly to one length. Any subtle shaping or texturising needs to support that fullness rather than take too much weight away.’
A blunt bob is cut to one, uniform length
Why is it good for menopausal hair? ‘It can make the ends look fuller and give finer hair a more substantial appearance. However, there needs to be enough density to support the baseline. If the hair is extremely fine, a completely rigid, one-length shape can sometimes highlight that. This is particularly important when the hair is finer in front of the ears than behind them. Carefully-placed shaping around the face can help the cut feel more balanced.’
Which face shapes and hair types suit it? ‘It can work beautifully on finer hair with enough density through the ends. Oval faces are versatile, while square faces may benefit from softness around the front. For a round face, I would generally take the length below the chin to help elongate the face. On a longer or more rectangular face, a shorter bob can work well, with a fringe or face-framing detail considered to balance the proportions.’
The blunt bob can work brilliantly with a fringe, take Penélope Cruz as inspiration
What are its biggest advantages? ‘Fuller-looking ends, a defined shape and a modern finish. It is particularly useful when the priority is to make the baseline look thicker, although it won’t automatically create much lift at the roots.’
What is the maintenance? ‘Allow around six weeks between appointments. A precise bob needs regular reshaping because its proportions change as it grows.’
How should you style it? ‘Wear it smooth or add a gentle bend for softness. Think about where you place the volume: lots of width at the sides can make a round face appear rounder. Be mindful of fragile hair when using heat.’
The collarbone lob
What is it? ‘A collarbone lob is a longer bob that sits around the collarbone. It can be worn with or without layers, depending on the hair’s density and the movement you want to create.’
Slightly longer in length, this style sits at the collarbones
Why is it good for menopausal hair? ‘It offers a lovely middle ground for someone who wants fuller-looking ends without going particularly short. The shape can introduce softness and movement while retaining enough length for a voluminous blow-dry.’
Which face shapes and hair types suit it? ‘It can work particularly well on oval and round faces. For heart-shaped faces, keeping the length below the chin and adding soft face-framing detail can be flattering. With a long or oblong face, I would be more careful: too much length and downward emphasis can make the face appear longer. The proportions and placement of volume matter.’
The length gives the style more versatility and movement
What are its biggest advantages? ‘Versatility, softness and movement. You can wear it sleek, add texture or blow-dry it with volume to complement your face shape.’
What is the maintenance? ‘A collarbone lob generally gives you around eight weeks before it needs reshaping. It tends to grow out more softly than a precise blunt bob.’
How should you style it? ‘A voluminous blow-dry or a soft bend can bring out the shape beautifully. Place the movement where it flatters your face, rather than adding curls everywhere. For longer faces, avoid concentrating all the movement low down, as this can draw the eye downwards.’
And the bob style to beware
Again, there are no rigid rules. However, there is one bob style that can often backfire on fine menopausal hair, says Gustav. ‘I would be cautious about a long bob with lots of layering throughout,’ he tells us. ‘Women often think that layers will make hair look thicker, but this style often looks quite wispy at the ends, emphasising any hormonal thinning.’